Eastern Georgia - Tusheti
Villages Omalo, Shenako, Dartlo
Western Georgia - Imereti
Mountain roads dug into the mountain slopes
Pretentious serpentine wrapped around the rocks,
Who looked from the heights to the low
Will not forget these passes.
Nikolay Orlov
Tusheti - High-mountainous Georgia, borders with Dagestan, but there are no official transitions to and from Russia here - there are no roads either, only mountain paths.
We return to the asphalt. Descending from the mountains of Khevsureti, we again found ourselves on the plain near the Zhinvali reservoir. Following the route we have compiled from here, our path lies on Tianeti with a visit to the sights on the way and from Tianeti we go to the mountains of Tusheti. But the road onto which we had to turn at the Zhinvali reservoir was blocked - a barrier, a brick.
There was a large-scale construction on the road - the equipment literally bored into the rocks, moving them into the abyss and thereby significantly widening the road. Locals advised to go through Tbilisi. And this is a 100 km hook. And the entire convenient route developed by us was disrupted. But there is nothing to do, we went through Tbilisi. The first kilometers drove and everyone grieved - how unfortunate it turns out. Therefore, having driven only 20 km. we decided to return and try to drive along the road under construction - after all, if the equipment drives there, then our little Jims will have enough space.
At the beginning of the path from the Zhinvali reservoir to Tianeti, right by the road, hiding behind tall trees in a lowland, there is a majestic temple - Fuznari... Fuznari is probably associated with the word "fujo", which means base, base, sometimes this word means hearth. According to an inscription carved on a stone placed above the western entrance, the church dates back to the first half of the 13th century.
The temple has been completely restored, and only 2 years ago it was badly damaged.
Maneuvering between special equipment and mountains of stone, chipped off the rocks, we safely overcame the repaired section of the road and drove onto the dirt road. The road went through a gorgeous forest with century-old trees. Apparently due to the fact that the road is blocked at the very beginning and passes outside the settlements, no one met us on the way until we turned at a fork and, having climbed the hill, entered the territory of the Kvetera Monastery. There, in the open air, at a large table, a large campaign of Georgian men was celebrating something. They did not pay any attention to us, and we calmly went to inspect the main attraction of this monastery, the temple of the X century.
Watchtower on the road to the monastery.
A special place in the Akhmeta region of Kakheti. Usually, this name means a temple of the 10th century, however, on this place there are also the remains of a fortress, and once there was a whole city, presumably called Kvetera.
The main building of the Quetera complex. The temple itself is rather modest in size. It is built of shell rock and the roof is covered with blue glazed tiles.
Having carefully examined everything, we return to the cars. And then the well-known overtook us. We were called to the table. We did not refuse. Questions where we are as we are, regrets on both sides that the Union collapsed and the border between us. And yet both they and we noted the pleasant fact that Russians and Georgians are still brothers and friends forever - and the Orthodox religion unites us.
Toasts, toasts, toasts from their side, from our side, for friendship, for brotherhood, for beautiful ladies.
And wonderful melodic old Georgian songs against the background of the destroyed walls of the ancient city and a beautiful temple under the sky-blue tiles.
Delicious barbecue, delicious Georgian wine, friendly people who, by the way, turned out to be from the department of culture of Akhmeta and are restoring this ancient complex. All this immersed us in the original atmosphere of Georgia.
During the feast, Georgian folk songs were sounded, which, according to the Georgians themselves, are more than 40 centuries old.
Probably, it was possible to stay at this hospitable table until morning, but we have plans for the mountainous Tusheti, we began to get ready for the road, said a farewell toast. The Georgians very much asked us to tell us at home that they are not scary, and that the Russians should not be afraid to visit them.
They miss usis a literal quote.
Saying goodbye, learning that we were going to Omalo, they advised us to go there now, because it was already evening. And the road there, according to them, is very long and very, very difficult and dangerous in the dark. They even offered to spend the night with them, but we decided not to abuse the hospitality, and leave closer to the mountain road,
We managed to reach the beginning of the road to Omalo before dark and spent the night on the bank of a mountain stream under the spreading walnut trees.
Walnuts straight from the tree were delicious!
In the morning we set off on the road, to the mountains, to the capital of Tusheti - the village of Omalo. The first kilometers of the journey drove easily and calmly, although there was little reason for calm: a large number of roadside graves-sources, announcing that someone had died here, reminded us that we must not relax on the mountain road. At first, they were even surprised to see this cross, deciding that it was already a pass, because according to the descriptions there is a cross on the pass.
But before the Abano pass it turned out to be several hours of driving along a really difficult and tiring mountain road. the route goes through several gorges and overcomes several passes. Abano is the most important pass.
Sheep will never give way - that's why they are sheep!
The road is very narrow, there are many oncoming cars (Omalo is now the tourist center of Tusheti, many tourists are brought here). Throughout the road, even, it would seem, on its straight sections, not to mention the serpentines, which specifically climb steeply upward, blind 180-degree turns every 100 meters. What and who is not visible around the corner.
If you can see that the oncoming lane is going far away, it makes sense at the first opportunity (where it is a little wider) to stop and let it pass, otherwise you may not part ways.
On the one hand there is a sheer cliff, on the other, literally 20 cm from the wheel, there is a sharp steep cliff.
Scary and beautiful. Both are breathtaking.
From time to time, the road is crossed by seething water streams, to varying degrees, eroding the so-called road.
Dizzying views open from the road.
Each time we ask ourselves the question - What's around the bend? There is no place to go
Literally one wheel over the abyss. Here composure will leave even the most courageous - the navigator, covering her eyes with her hands, shouted loudly that she had long dreamed of flying, but only up and not down into the abyss.
At some height we drove into the clouds, the visibility dropped to 5 meters.
In such a thick fog, they did not even notice that they had stopped at the pass.
The Abano pass itself (2926 m above sea level) was densely wrapped in clouds, which, driven by the strongest wind, covered us with the smallest droplets of water.
You can't see anything, it's wet and very cold. Faster down! They left their "mark" on the pass.
On the pass we met two young guys from Germany. They literally climbed under our Dzhimniki looking at something from below. They themselves travel on the ancient Kruzak, sleep like we do in tents, carry firewood with them on the roof. We talked, chatted about this and that. The guys said that they would very much like to visit Russia, but they are very afraid of us Russians and our police, which is robbing all foreigners. We tried to dissuade them of this. Or maybe in vain ?. Maybe it's better to be afraid. You look and start to respect.
Finally, let's go down! And then somehow they began to feel unwell - apparently they caught up with mountain sickness.
Going down is no easier - a long descent - you have to brake only with the engine. And the road did not become wider.
The absolute treelessness above is replaced by a pine forest just below.
Having gone down into the gorge, to Omalo itself, I again had to climb a very steep serpentine. This part of the road was in very poor condition - large landslides and heavily washed out. This is due to the fact that the droga rises, as it seemed to us, into a sandy mountain. And the slightest rain destroys it.
Climbing the mountain, we did not expect to see such a plain. Omalo is located at an altitude of 1900 m above sea level, 8 km from the border with Dagestan.
The village of Omalo and the neighboring village of Shenako, located across the gorge, can be seen in the film "Mimino", since according to the script the pilot Valiko Mizandari (ie Kikabidze) hails from Shenako. And he landed his helicopter just at the airfield in Omalo, making a circle over his native village. Many of those children who fled after the helicopter still live here.
Omalo consists of a summer village (Upper Omalo) and a winter village (Lower Omalo or simply Omalo). The winter village is just located on the edge of the meadow, to which we drove. Upper Omalo is located on the rock where the complex of Caucasian watchtowers is located - we are heading there.
But first you have to eat. We find a cafe (and they are here, as well as guest houses). We were offered a salad and a soup. And that's all. And the price tag is not at all humane. There was no barbecue, no khinkali, no cheese in any cafe. Probably all the tourists are bastards ate. But we always have a supply of provisions with us. We settled down behind the village and had lunch, admiring the most beautiful views around.
They are located on a steep cliff dominating the area. The top of the cliff is a small, relatively flat area. On the one hand, it ends in a terrible steep, on the other, the cliff is much less deep; and you can climb to the fortress along the path. The complex consists of eight towers, five of which were restored by foreigners, as evidenced by metal plaques on the towers with the names of sponsors.
Near the towers, there are posters for tourists that faded under the sun, informing that when the towers were residential, the lower floor was given for women's work (and I must say, almost everything belonged to women's work - doing all housework, and also women went to the forest for firewood, mowed , stung and even plowed). The second floor of the tower was residential - here they ate and slept. The third was considered male.
The walls of the fortress, the upper and lower towers are made of stone slabs.
Greetings, Sun! Bless my Spirit, Soul and my body, so that I dwell in health and grace.
“The sun is clear, hear my call. I am your earthly daughter. I appeal to you with boundless love, illuminate the path of my righteous husband, so that his thoughts are bright and just. So that his path may be blessed by you, clear sun.
Combine your Divine Fire with its Spiritual fire.
May strength and wisdom be in him as many times as he needs.
So that he could do his deeds in Divine glory.
Glory to Thee, Sun! "
Well, Nastya gave it away !. Truly a Slav!
A tourist center is under construction in Omalo. Nobody in the center speaks Russian only in English, and of course in Georgian.
From the center, a beautiful alley leads to the observation deck above the gorge.
We are going to the villages of Shenako and Dartlo. Both villages are separated from Omalo by a deep gorge. In Soviet times, they even wanted to build a cable car between the villages. The first on the way of Shenako. The village has the only Orthodox church in Tushetia, built by the Greeks and recently painted with frescoes. It is this church that comes into the frame when Valiko from the movie "Mimino" makes a circle over the village.
The village of Dartlo with unsightly houses. Remarkably large number of towers.
For the night we got up in a pine forest on the edge of the gorge - between Omalo and Shenako. When it got dark we set up an open-air cinema for ourselves - they turned on the film “ Mimino". We watched this movie more than once, sitting at home within four walls. And to be honest, the film did not cause much emotion. But here in the mountains, among the living decorations, everything was different. We peered into every frame of the film and recognized with delight all the places that were captured in the film. The music and songs played in the film evoked an extraordinary, unforgettable feeling of flight, freedom and infinity.
It only seems from the outside that these wonderful meadows are horizontal. In fact, we hardly found more or less even 3 sq.m. for tents. All other planes have a very strong slope.
The village of Omalo across the gorge.
Returning from Tusheti to the plain, at the entrance to Omalo, right on the serpentine road we met fellow guys from Germany - they just got here. We told them what other interesting places in Georgia they can see - apart from Omalo, they did not know where else to go. The Germans were not prepared. We carefully developed our route and knew exactly when and where we need to visit.
On mountain roads, everything is always different - here time goes by differently. Here, every action and every step you take will be appreciated in a completely different way.
By this time, the percentage of blood and adrenaline in our veins was 50x50.
On incredibly steep slopes, in fact, on absolutely vertical cliffs, there are lonely towers. How you can get there, not to mention how to make this quite rather big structure out of stone, one can only guess. In terms of the complexity of the construction, in our opinion, the towers can quite compete with the pyramids
The road runs over a terrible abyss, It rushes between life and death; A crowd of giants watch over her; Death nests over her. Fear the awakening of a terrible avalanche: Walk in silence along the dangerous road.
Descending from the mountains we go to a small town in Kakheti - Sighnaghi. Our path runs through the Ancient Capital of Kakheti -.
Gremi Castle - this is a narrow tower and the Archangel Church with frescoes. The entire complex was built in 1565 by the Kakhetian king Levan, who made a new capital here. In 1615, the capital was burned down by Shah Abbas. A museum with archaeological finds of Kakheti is deployed in the castle tower.
Perhaps in this cozy room, Tsar Levan made important government decisions.
Already at dusk we arrived in Sighnaghi.
Sighnaghi is the brainchild of the Saakashvili era. Here in 2007-2012 a large-scale reconstruction was carried out, which resulted in the "City of Lovers". Now it is one of the most visited (especially by Europeans) places in Georgia.
The result is a cozy European town. However, through the ajar gates, we saw the old dilapidated walls of the buildings, which with restored elegant facades overlook the street.
Monument to the doctor on a donkey based on the famous painting by the famous Georgian artist Pirosmani. There is a house-museum in Sighnaghi Niko Pirosmani.
We bought homemade wine, cheese, lavash and huge sugar tomatoes, and after leaving the City of Lovers in complete darkness, we stopped for the night on the banks of the Alazan River. And in the morning we went to Tsinandali.
Almost in the center of Kakheti lies the village of Tsinandali - one of the largest centers of winemaking in Kakheti. Once it belonged to the poet, military general and public figure Alexander Chavchavadze, who inherited this village from his father, Prince Garsevan Chavchavadze.
Garsevan Chavchavadze was a well-known diplomat and public figure; in 1784-1801 he was the plenipotentiary ambassador of the kingdom of Kartl-Kakheti at the court of the Russian Empire.
In 1946, on the centenary of the death of the Georgian poet, the house-museum of Alexander Chavchavadze was opened in the estate. In 2008 the museum was restored. The house-museum has preserved the interiors, furniture and personal belongings of the princes.
We took a tour of the museum. The girl guide told an interesting story of the Chavchavadze family. Once upon a time, officers of the tsarist army, people of art, who were exiled to the Caucasus, were frequent guests at the estate: Pushkin, Lermontov.
In the Chavchavadze estate, the Russian writer Alexander Griboyedov was also a relative. In the park, you can still see the chapel where the poet and the owner's daughter, Princess Nina Chavchavadze, were married. The married life was short-lived. Unfortunately, a year later, Griboyedov was killed. And Nina Chavchavadze remained faithful to her husband all her life, never getting married again.
It was in this estate that Griboyedov wrote the immortal play "Woe from Wit". The poet liked Tsinandali and the family estate of Chavchavadze very much. He dedicated poems to them, in which he predicted his death: "Where Alazan winds, Bliss and coolness blows.
A well-groomed English-style park has been preserved around the estate.
Familiar with European trading houses, Alexander Chavchavadze built the first winery in Georgia in Tsinandali and laid out wine cellars. His wines began to be transported to Europe, where they were rightfully appreciated.
One of the oldest and most important cities in Kakheti is Telavi... And now it is the administrative center of Kakheti.
On the way to Telavi we passed the airfield "Mimino", translated from the Georgian "Falcon", where, according to the script of the film of the same name, the character of Vakhtang Kikabidze worked. He called here from abroad and was connected not to Telavi, but to Tel Aviv.
At the entrance to the city, at the corner of the fortress, there is an equestrian monument to King Heraclius II. This monument appeared in the film "Mimino" in the episode where they ask about the helicopter airfield.
Fortress "Batonis tsikhe" in the central part of Telavi. Translated into Russian, the name of the fortress means "Lord's Fortress". In the 17-18 centuries, when the city was the capital of the Kakhetian principality, the residence of the Kakhetian kings was located here.
From the walls of the citadel, a beautiful view opens up of the Alazani Valley with its vast vineyards, and in the distance - to the Caucasian ridge, the coolness of the mountains of which we have already begun to dream about, since the valley was 30 degrees hot.
There is a tourist center in Telavi, where we were given free brochures and tourist maps of Georgia. The center is in a building on the side of this beautiful building.
Telavi is a very cozy and pleasant town with a unique Georgian flavor. Unlike Sighnaghi, he is somehow alive, real.
A 900-year-old plane tree or plane tree, which is considered to be the oldest tree in Georgia, grows on one of the ancient streets. It took 13 people to hug him.
Opposite the monument to Irakli, delicious khinkali are made in a cozy cafe. In general, khinkali in Georgia are delicious everywhere, and it seemed to us that they differ only in the thickness of the dough. The dough here is very thin. The price for this dish turned out to be the same everywhere - be it in a cafe or in a restaurant.
Another important attraction of Kakheti is wine, the best in Georgia. Therefore, after having eaten, now you can drink. Accordingly, the next place along the route is the Kindzmarauli Corporation winery.
Kindzmarauli Corporation is one of the largest wineries in Kakheti. Located in the very center of the town of Kvareli and is the main producer of the famous semi-sweet wine. Now the plant owns about 80% of the territory of the Kindzmarauli microzone
Before the tour of the factory, we tasted different wines. At the same time, completely forgetting that some of us are driving. All hope that during the excursion everything will disappear. The girl who conducted the tasting noted that they are very strict with this matter - driving no, no.
Georgia has a special technology for making wine. In Europe, grapes for wine are crushed without branches, and then the seeds are separated.
Since ancient times, grapes for wine in Kakheti have been pressed together with branches and seeds, and all together are put into barrels for fermentation, which gives a special tartness to Georgian wines.
In addition, wine in Kakheti ferments for up to six months, which is considered wrong in Europe - they forcibly stop fermentation there by a sharp minus cooling of the brew.
Making wine in Georgian looks very soulful.
Qvevri is a large earthenware jug. It is buried in the ground and grapes ferment there at a constant temperature. This ancient technology is still used in Georgia.
Not all wines in Kakheti are made according to the ancient technology using qvevri. This is a hall where wine is made like in Europe.
Marani is a room where wine is stored after fermenting in qvevri.
In the Kindzmarauli Corporation brand store we bought various wines to take home with us. During a trip to Georgia, they mainly drank homemade white and black wine (this is how the Georgians call red wine, which is logical because it is from black grapes), buying in 3 and 5 liters. banks. Wine is poured into jars up to the very lid so that it does not oxidize. Therefore, stopping for the night, they drank such a jar at a time so that this divine drink would not oxidize.
Hiding from the heat, we set up camp in the shade of a beech forest. The morning passed under the gaze of two Caucasian Shepherd Dogs.
Akhali Shuamta Monastery was built in the 16th century. This is a nunnery, it still operates. The monastery has strict rules, everything is done with the permission of the inhabitants. There is a small bell, which is supposed to ring before opening the doors in the monastery wall. This serves as a signal for those nuns who do not want to meet visitors.
Our further path lies in Imereti - the largest and most historical region of Western Georgia. A visit to Tbilisi was not included in our plans, so the acquaintance with the capital of Georgia passed on the go, through the windows of the car
As we move westward, the vineyards of the plains of Kakheti give way to lush forests in Imereti.
In the evening we find ourselves in Kutaisi - the capital of Imereti. In addition, Kutaisi is the second constitutional capital of Georgia.
"Colchis Fountain" on the central square of David the Builder.
The monument near the theater building to the famous Georgian actor and director Lado Meskhishvili, who for some time led the theater troupe.
There are vineyards in Kakheti, and tea plantations in Imereti. Tea was grown in Soviet times, and now there is nothing left of the plantations, except for marking on maps. Here on the edge of such a plantation overgrown with tangerine trees and bushes of thorny blackberries, we spent the night.
Next day - visit to Tskhaltubo Prometheus Cave.
The name "Prometheus Cave" was invented by Mikhail Saakashvili when he was the President of Georgia. Prometheus Cave is the largest in Georgia. Actually, this cave is part of a huge cave network that stretches throughout Western Georgia and Abkhazia. Several halls are available for inspection, the route is 1500 m and the passage lasts about an hour.
The cave was discovered in the 80s (allegedly they were looking for a place for a bomb shelter), and they were opened for visiting in 2011.
The concrete path in the cave goes up and down. Outlandish growths, icicles, stalagmites, rivers and small lakes - all illuminated by iridescent colors.
The music of Giya Kancheli sounds all the way. Amazing fabulous atmosphere. And if you consider that the outside is 35 degrees, and here in the cave there is a 10-degree refreshing coolness, I did not want to leave the cave at all.
The visiting time is limited and takes place as part of an organized group, so after an hour we got off at the other end of the cave, from where we were taken by bus to the place of entrance.
The next place to visit is another Imeretinskaya natural attraction. We decided to go to the canyon not on the asphalt, but to cut it along a picturesque road.
We drove along a dirt path through the villages, admiring traditional Georgian houses with balconies-terraces entwined with grapes. The path, winding up and down the hills overgrown with pomegranate trees. We traveled in September and the grenade was ripe.
There are very beautiful rivers in Georgia with the purest water of amazing turquoise color.
We rested on a narrow suspension bridge with rotten boards across the stormy river Tskhenisikale.
The side mirrors had to be folded down to drive over the walkway.
The bridge is very narrow, perhaps even a pedestrian one. Our Dzhimki only with a millimeter gap squeezed between the posts to which the cables are attached.
Okatse river canyon length 3 km. Depth 50 meters. The tourist observation path runs along a suspended canyon bridge built along the canyon. In fact, you just walk over the precipice. There is an observation deck that hovers over the abyss. To be honest, we were impressed only by the very construction of the path hanging over the canyon. And on the slopes of the canyons we drove much deeper than Okatse while we got to Omalo.
We met one sociable elderly Georgian who perfectly remembers the Soviet times and regrets, like many, those times when we were one country. He suggested to us a wonderful place for a camp in a gorge on the Abasha river. Without his help, we would not have found him - the place is wild and secluded.
The water is icy - after all, the river runs from the glaciers of the Caucasus Mountains. The current is so powerful that swimming trunks and swimsuits can only be torn off.
No other cars can get into this Kingdom of Berendey. They literally made their way through the stones and trees, densely overgrown with mosses and lichens.
Our Georgian friend strongly recommended fishing for trout in this river. According to him, there is a lot of it here. And we always have our fishing rods with us. But we were too lazy to uncover the spinning rods, especially in the morning we were in a hurry to the Martvili canyon on the Abasha river.
The canyon is very popular with tourists. Therefore, we were in a hurry in the morning, until the tourist buses arrived. The canyon was created thanks to the Abasha River, which made its way through the limestone rocks.
The canyon consists of two parts, which are separated by rapids and a sandbank.
In the upper part of the canyon there is a boat ride.
In the lower part of the canyon, there is a stone trail with observation platforms and romantic bridges hanging over the canyon.
Despite the fact that the canyon is very crowded, we really liked it for its diversity - this is a turquoise lake, sandwiched by overhanging rocks, from which water oozes and a river falling down with sparkling waterfalls in the sun.
Looking from above into the turquoise waters of the Abasha River, we saw that there are really a lot of trout in it, as the kind Georgian said. It was here that we regretted that we were too lazy to uncover.
Let's go further. Opposite the medieval fortress, in a cozy restaurant, we tasted Imeretian khachapuri made from thin dough with cheese inside - in each area of \u200b\u200bGeorgia, khachapuri is prepared in its own way. We already ate lobiani (with beans) and Khevsurian khachapuri (inside except for cheese grass), Kakhetian (on a spit).
While in Imereti we tasted Imeretian curd cheese. I really liked the Georgian lemonade produced at the Lagidze plant. It's amazing that such a wine country has very decent and tasty beer. But kebab did not become our favorite. They ate shish kebab from mutton, beef and chicken. Not impressed with this dish. At home we make barbecue often and we get it excellently.
We stopped at an abandoned thermal spring.
Boiling water with the smell of rotten eggs beats from under the ground - apparently a hydrogen sulfide source.
They planned to spend the next couple of days relaxing on the Black Sea beaches of Georgia. Our tourists who met us in the canyons said that the beaches in Batumi and around are very dirty, And we will not go to Batumi, we decided. On the map we found where the big beaches are - such a place was the vicinity of Poti. But here, too, the spectacle was simply disgusting.
We have not seen this anywhere else. Garbage, not only on the surface, it is mixed with sand, God knows how deep. It's a shame - after all, the beach is really wide and long, on one side it is surrounded by a gorgeous pine forest. In search of a place for a camp, we drove into this forest, but even then a shock awaited us - as if garbage was being brought here from all cities of Georgia.
We rushed to look for places where the locals with their garbage would not get. To do this, we had to drive another 40 km. But we also did not manage to get close to the sea - along the sea along the beach there is a railway branch of a huge port-industrial zone, not as indicated on the map. As a result, in complete darkness they got up for the night without even having supper, as while they were laying out the tents, they became supper for the horde of mosquitoes.
In the morning, it turned out that they were standing on an island in a swamp. And we thought all night that we were standing on the bank of the river - the frogs croaked very loudly.
Well, it's the sea - we decided and drove further along the planned route - to Svaneti, to the mountains.
Continuing our acquaintance with beautiful Georgia, following our popular track through Svaneti, the Call of the Mountains club offers to go to a less popular, but no less interesting hike from Khevsureti to Tusheti... Tusheti and Khevsureti are some of the most interesting and original places in Georgia! They have a special aura and attractiveness. And at the same time, there are few who have been there, since these mountain regions are surrounded on all sides by high ridges and are very inaccessible; they were isolated from civilization for a long time. Even in our time, you can only get there by road from July to September.
Tusheti is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Numerous architectural monuments have been preserved on its territory - defensive towers, ancient temples. The medieval towers of Khevsureti and Tusheti look even more interesting than the Svan ones. The local population in those ancient times had to constantly fight with its neighbors, so the towers were built as real defensive fortresses.
During the hike, we will see the legendary Mount Kazbek, the unusual colors of the Truso travertine and the picturesque Abudelaur lakes of different colors, visit the wineries of Kakheti, where we will taste the best wines of the Alazani Valley.
It is worth going on a hike in Georgia "Khevsutretia - Tushetiya" to see:
- unique inaccessible mountain regions of Georgia - Khevsureti and Tusheti with their towers and temples that have survived to this day by pagan rites
- wonderful capital of Georgia - Tbilisi
- natural monument - travertines of unusual coloring in the Truso gorge
- the famous Gergeti Church of the Holy Trinity of the XIV century above the village of Stepantsminda, located at an altitude of 2170 m, and the majestic peak of Kazbek - the highest mountain in Georgia (5033 m)
- very picturesque colorful Abudelaur lakes
- mystical dead city of Mutso - Georgian Machu Picchu
- the highest mountain of the Eastern Caucasus - the most beautiful Tebulosmtu (4500 m)
- the village of Omalo, where the famous film by Georgy Danelia "Mimino" was filmed
- how the famous wines of Kakheti are made :)
Day 1. Tbilisi - Kazbegi - Juta
We meet in Tbilisi no later than 8 am. We are starting our excursion program. First, we will drive to Stepantsminda (Kazbegi). On the way, we will stop at the 17th century fortress Ananuri, drink mineral water from a spring on the Cross Pass. Next, we will examine colored travertines (calcium deposits near mineral springs) in the Truso gorge. In Stepantsminda we will go up to the Gergeti temple of the XIV century. The hill offers stunning views of the snow-capped Kazbek peak - the highest mountain in Georgia (5033 m). Moving to the village of Sno, where we will visit an ancient fortress of the 16th century. We will stop for the night near the village of Juta at an altitude of 2200 m.
Day 2. Pass Chaukhi - Abudelaur lakes
We will rise to the Chaukhi pass. During the whole climb we will admire the Chaukhi ridge with seven peaked peaks. After resting on the pass, we will go down to the Abudelaur lakes. Of these, the most beautiful and remarkable three: Blue, Green and White, are named accordingly by the shades of color. We will set up a camp not far from them.
Distance 10 km, climb 1140 m, drop 740 m
Day 3. Gadani - Shatili
We pass to Gadani. From there we will move to Khevsureti. We will stop for the night near the ancient mountain village of Shatili. Many ancient buildings have been preserved here, there is also a fortress. If you wish, you can spend the night in comfort in the guest house. The inaccessibility of the region contributed to the preservation of the pre-Christian way of life here. The pagan culture was supplanted only after the construction of the road in 1930. However, echoes of pagan rituals in Khevsureti can still be found today.
Distance 7 km, drop 600 m
Day 4. Mutso - Khidotani ridge
To save time and effort, we will cover part of the way by transport. First, we will visit the stone crypts of the ancient burial place of Anatori (XVII-XIX centuries). Then we will go to the mysterious dead city of Mutso in the gorge of the Ardoti River. It is also called the Georgian Machu Picchu. The reasons why people left the city are still not known. The Mutso fortress is built on a mountain on a slope of 60 degrees, it is not easy to get there along a very steep path. Above there is a temple-sanctuary, where residents of nearby villages conduct pagan rituals. The entrance to the temple for uninitiated people is prohibited. There is also a tower where the elders negotiate. After leaving Mutso, we will gain another kilometer of altitude. We will set up our tents on the Khidotani ridge, surrounded by alpine meadows.
Distance 8 km, climb 1000 m
Day 5. Pass Atsunta (3430 m)
We go up again - today we have to cross the Atsunta ridge, which separates Khevsureti and Tusheti. A few kilometers from us the border with Russia passes, in that direction the highest mountain of the Eastern Caucasus - Tebulosmta (4500 m), covered with a white glacier cap, stands out. We spend the night near the border guard camp.
Distance: 15 km, climb 830 m, drop 1030 m
Day 6. Chesho
Today there will be a long, but not difficult, crossing along the rivers Kvakhidistskali and Pirikitskaya Alazani. We will pass several abandoned villages and stop at Chesho. There are several ancient towers in the village. In Chesho, you can, if you wish, spend the night comfortably in a guest house or, as usual, put up tents.
Distance: 17 km, altitude drop 450 m
Day 7. Dartlo
We go to Dartlo - one of the most picturesque villages in Tusheti. Until recently, the village was abandoned, and now there are about a dozen family hotels that receive tourists in the best traditions of Caucasian hospitality. In addition to castles, buildings and towers in the village, you can see the ruins of Christian churches, in which there are stone chairs of elders. In the middle of the village an ancient six-story tower rises majestically, built according to local traditions from flat stone without mortar. On the hills above Dartlo are the ruins of the Kvavlo fortress, where we will also go.
Distance 7 km, drop 150 m
Day 8. Omalo - Kakheti
On the eighth day of our hike in Georgia we will move to Omalo. The path gradually goes up to the Alazani ridge, eventually leading us to the ancient towers of Keselo. In the alpine village of Omalo, they shot footage of the famous film "Mimino". Pagan traditions have survived to this day, and electricity is received only from solar panels. After examining the surroundings, we will drive down to Kakheti through the Abano Pass - the road is not for the faint of heart, it even got into the BBC film "The Most Dangerous Roads in the World". In the past, abandoned, located on the outskirts of civilization, Kakheti has been greatly transformed in our time. The tourism infrastructure is now very developed. We check into a hotel, rest and start tasting the famous Kakhetian wines.
Distance 10 km
Day 9. Excursion to the wineries of Kakheti - transfer to Tbilisi
Today we will visit several wineries, where we will see how wine is made by the Kakhetian method in clay vessels - kvevri. Qvevri can be found in a variety of sizes - from ordinary to huge, for several hundred liters. The local wines are stored in qvevri or in wooden barrels and are usually sold only on the bottle. The quality of Kakhetian wines is often compared with French ones. In Kakheti, our trip to Georgia ends. We will return to Tbilisi in the evening, from where we will fly home.
Peculiarities of the trip to Georgia "Khevsuretia and Tushetia"
In addition to the walking tour, the program will include an excursion part. In Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) we will see the Gergeti Church of the XIV century, against the background of which the highest peak of Georgia, the mountain (5033 m), flaunts. The colorful Abudelaur lakes (Blue, Green and White) in Khevsureti are very picturesque. Also, after the active part, we will take a tour of the wineries of the Alazani Valley in Kakheti. Overnight stays are mostly in tents, but several nights can be spent comfortably in guest houses. The route cannot be considered particularly difficult, but since we need to overcome two passes 3400 meters above sea level, good physical preparation will not hurt.
Additional information:
- This is a complete hiking trip. We carry tents, food and other equipment in our backpacks.
- Depending on the weather, the state of the group, the instructor can make changes to the route.
- Payment in cash (dollars) on the first day of the trip to the instructor. In case of early departure from the route without a valid reason (illness, injury), the money will not be returned!
- The group size is from 5 to 15 participants.
- Improvement of the camp (setting up tents, cooking) is carried out by all participants of the trip.
- For citizens of Russia, Ukraine and Belarus, a visa to Georgia is not required! Entry with a passport. The passport should not contain notes about visiting Abkhazia and South Ossetia.
Tour participation cost:200 $
The tour price includes:
- three meals a day on the route,
- services of an instructor-guide,
- group first aid kit,
- campfire or gas equipment
The tour price does not include:
- personal equipment rental,
- moving along the route,
- accommodation in hostels and hotels,
- medical insurance,
- payment for excursions and visits to paid attractions and tastings
All additional costs will be approximately $ 180.
It would seem difficult to hear something new about Georgia. The land of the gentle sun, high mountains and intoxicating wine has long been known to tourists and travelers. It seems that she is ridden up and down. Ancient monasteries on mountain peaks and cave complexes are the hallmark of Georgia, along with a hospitable population and rich cuisine. But there is one place in Georgia where you will not see a single familiar monastery, where there will be no winery around every corner, where a mustachioed Georgian in a cap is not standing at the restaurant, inviting you to taste khinkali. It is difficult and dangerous to get here. The road here is closed nine months a year. People living here are practically deprived of the benefits of civilization, and they still build their houses of stone ...
Tusheti (or Tusheti in Georgian) is the most remote region of Georgia. It is located almost on the border with Dagestan and Chechnya. Getting here is extremely difficult, but possible. And the difficulties experienced during the journey are more than compensated by the delights seen.
The nearest settlement on the road to Tusheti is the village of Pshaveli. It is here that you can rent a jeep or book an excursion with a driver. The cost of such a pleasure will be different, as agreed. We've heard that the price goes up to $ 100 per car per day, plus the cost of gas. You can get there and back in two days, because a one-way trip takes about six hours, although the total distance is only 70 km. The thing is that this road is a winding serpentine without bumpers. Only the first 15 kilometers are traces of asphalt visible, and even those are constantly eroded by mountain rivers. Further - a primer with frequent sharp turns. Driving on this road is quite dangerous, so it is best to hire a local driver.
All 70 kilometers to Omalo, the main village in the Tusheti region, you will see amazing pictures. Here, the human hand practically did not touch what nature has created. Huge waterfalls here flow directly onto the road on which you are driving. Rockfalls often occur, so you have a great opportunity to get out of the car and clear the road so that you can move on. On endless passes, you can often see snow - and nothing that it is August! The stormy streams of mountain rivers, even at the end of summer, erode everything around. That is why it is impossible to build a normal road here. That is why the path here is cut off from October to June.
That is why this area is so beautiful - there is practically no one here nine months of the year!
Yes, for 70 km you will see a maximum of two border points with Russia, at the very beginning, and a booth with a guard of the national park, already at the entrance to Omalo. People don't live here. The mountainous terrain and wild weather conditions did their job.
But what can you see in Tusheti itself? Why is it so long and so dangerous to go here? The first is the feeling that you are far from civilization... It is difficult to name ten houses with barns as a settlement. There are about fifteen villages in the district here, and all of them are practically the same in their composition and appearance. The second is pristine nature, simply striking in its grandeur. In Tusheti you can see mountains of four thousand meters with snowy tops, endless rocky passes, powerful waterfalls and rapid cold blue rivers. It is full of entertainment for tourists: horseback riding, ATV excursions, trekking tours along unexplored mountain paths. And the third is wonders of human hard work and ingenuitythat you will see in the local architecture. Back in the Middle Ages, Tusheti towers began to be built here - structures that still amaze with their grandeur, scrupulousness of execution and extraordinary stability.
The Tusheti tower looks like a tall building with a tapering roof. It reaches a height of 10-15 meters. But the most important thing about it is that it is completely made of stone. Blue shale, which is found in large quantities in local rocks, has replaced bricks, concrete, and mortars for the inhabitants of Tusheti. Georgian craftsmen skillfully selected each pebble and grinded it, if necessary, to make a perfect “brick” out of each. Then they fitted them to each other like a mosaic, so that the wall of the house would hold without mortar. Can you imagine how delicate, almost jewelry work it is - to build such a house, practically from nothing!
The purpose of the Tushetian towers is similar to the Svan towers. In Svaneti, such structures were also made of stone, but not so scrupulously. The first function of both those and other structures is to notify the population about the approaching enemy. If the watchman of the highest tower saw the enemy troops, then he lit fire, the light from which was noticed by the watchmen of other towers. Thus, without the usual means of communication for us, like mobile phones, people in a matter of minutes transmitted distress signals to each other.
Now in Tusheti, some towers are open to the public, you can climb inside and see with your own eyes how the Tushins used to live. The living area inside the towers is not very large, literally three by three meters on each floor. The first floor was usually reserved for a stable - sheep and cows were kept here. The second and third floors were residential. To be honest, it seems incredible. We, civilized people, accustomed to spacious rooms, solid walls and decorative items, do not at all understand how people lived on these pitiful square meters, in walls of bare stone ...
Perhaps that is why we decided to try the Tushetian life on ourselves and decided to spend the night right in the tower.
After waiting for darkness, we threw our backpacks into the second floor window and put up a tent inside. The sensations, of course, are indescribable. The tower we have chosen is located at an altitude of more than 2400 meters above sea level, around only mountains and small villages, "diluted" with expensive, but rather poor hotels for European tourists. What a divine sunset can be seen sitting near the tower, or watching the sun from the window of such a house. How distant and detached you feel being in a small room in a stone building. The main thing is not to turn on the flashlight in the tower at night, otherwise they will think that the war has begun. Of course, downstairs there are hotels stylized as Tusheti towers, where all the amenities are available. The cost of one night in them ranges from $ 20 to $ 50. The most daring will find a tent camp near the village of Zemo Omalo. But even spending the night in a tent cannot be compared to the moment when you crawl out the second floor window at three o'clock in the morning because you want to go to the toilet.
We did not observe grocery stores here, but in every village there are several restaurants with national Georgian cuisine. They say that khinkali here are one of the best in the country. The national cuisine of this region is limited mainly to vegetables and lamb. Sheep are bred everywhere in large numbers, they can be seen in almost every meadow.
It is striking that with the development of technology, the Tushetians decided to take advantage of the wonders of progress in the form of solar panels. However, there is no electricity, there is no electricity, and it is too expensive to use generators. In this case, a solar battery is a very rational solution, despite its initial high cost. Also, do not expect to find the Internet in these places, although in some places you can catch weak mobile Internet from Georgian operators. By the way, mobile communication is very unstable here, due to weather conditions and poor technical support.
But isn't it wonderful to be far from civilization and feel far, far away, to leave the notorious comfort zone! Feel yourself in the past and appreciate what you have in the present: when you live in a modern house, with strong walls, water, electricity. Here, observing the peculiarities of almost medieval life, you begin to really appreciate what you have. Isn't this the main thing in life?
Text: Irina Shapoval
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Hi, my name is David! Before you - travel blog "Over the Seven Mountains Ru", in which I talk about my trips - they are all independent and low-budget, but long. Welcome and let's chat!
Tusheti: how to get there, where to live, how much it costs. Photo of the Abano pass, the villages of Omalo and Shenako
My adventures in Tusheti have been told (in part,), now the turn of practical questions - "how, where, how much." I will illustrate the post with photos taken on the first day (Abano pass, Upper Omalo and Shenako).
View from the road to the Abano pass; beyond the Greater Caucasus - the valleys and gorges of Tusheti.
How to get to Tusheti
People usually get to Tusheti by off-road vehicles (some tourists on their motorcycles). Minibuses and buses do not run in Tusheti - the road is bad, they cannot.
If you do not have your own car, you need to take a car with a driver. My comrades (the residents of St. Petersburg, whom I met in Tbilisi) spent the night in, from morning (8:00) took a taxi (we agreed with the taxi driver in the evening - those who wanted to spoil the excess) and drove to Kvemo Alvani for 12 GEL (from Telavi to Alvani can be reached by minibus). The place where the drivers wait for tourists is called the "stock exchange" - Telavi taxi drivers will find it for you. Here we found three or something cars. On one of them we left. There were no tourists here except us. We wanted to be equipped with a fourth passenger, but we were told that they rarely come here one by one. They waited - alas.
If you do not know where to stay in Omalo, these same drivers can arrange everything for you - they are from Tusheti, they have all the necessary contacts. You can also talk with them about transportation around Tusheti itself - if a particular driver is busy, he will find someone who will take up this business. So far, in Tusheti, in the tourism sector, supply clearly exceeds demand.
A smoke break on the road to the Abano Pass
The standard cost of a car is 200 GEL, so it is better to travel to Tusheti with a company to share the costs for three or four. There are travel companies that recruit passengers, so if fellow travelers have not formed themselves, as in my case, they will be found for you.
592-820-356 - Dato
555-20-72-92 - Vazha
I am not personally acquainted with these people and did not use their services. Try it.
In addition, in Tbilisi you can find tours to Tusheti at realistic prices (see the prices at the end of the post). Ask at your guesthouse or hotel.
Pass Abano. Road in the clouds
Clouds underfoot
What else is known about the drive to Tusheti? In the Internet sources it is stated that several years ago in Tusheti people were transported in bodies by KAMAZ trucks. However, none of the local and Telavi people confirmed this information; I did not see any KAMAZ trucks with passengers in the back on the road from and to Tusheti.
More. An old Zhigul was also seen at the Abano pass, who had arrived of Tusheti. I don’t know how the trip ended for this car. It is only known that SUVs regularly get up on the roads. So if you've hired a driver, remember that you can get stuck for many hours on a mountain road - it's better to have food and water with you.
Descent from the Abano pass
One more descent, but larger. The beauty!
Tusheti Map
I was assured by a resident of Verkhovany that it is possible to walk from Verkhovani to Chesho - but better with a guide - there is no road there, only a path across the ridge - I was told so. I do not know how obvious or not obvious the desired path is - I have not seen it myself. Tamaz, mentioned in the post, just leads along this path. But he said "better with a guide" not just to impose his services - he is not like that at all. A deeply decent person, a good person. We need to contact Vazha Kardlidze. It's just that there is no mobile connection in Verkhovani, where Tamaz lives.
Or just go, and there will be. In Tusheti or specifically in Verkhany, you will talk to the locals about the trail, what is there with it - it is marked, clear or confused, whether you need a guide with your specific experience or not ...
Vovan (guest) speaking on Sun, 13/07/2014 - 23:07.
Hello, we are going to ride in a small company in early August in Georgia. I was interested in Tusheti. Please, tell me, is it possible to ride on bikes to Zhinvali-Tianeti-Akhmeta and further to Tusheti? Is it real and where can you get a carriage along the way?
David, hello!
A very nice and useful story! We are just planning to go to Georgia in July and now I am reading the information and trying to draw up a route.
And I would like to know if we in Tbilisi are going to rent a car for a trip to Tusheti, enjoy the nature there and see the villages. Do you think it is better to go for 3 days or 4 days in total?
And I am also very interested, because I really could not understand, on Nissan Qashqai in July, if it does not rain, can you get to the villages of Shimani and Mutso without any problems?
Thanks in advance)
Alexey2323 (guest) speaking on Sun, 28/07/2013 - 23:52.
Hello!
Thank you for everything!)
You wrote
"There is no road from Khevsureti (there - Shatili) to Tusheti - you can go on foot with a guide, they said to go somewhere for three days.
The question is - do you have conductor contacts?
And what could be dangerous if you go without guides? (wild animals for example?)
Good afternoon, David.
I read your report on Tusheti and a few questions arose. We have planned a bicycle trip in Georgia for September, the route passes through Alvani, so we simply have no right not to visit Tusheti. I think it will be difficult to physically climb into Omalo, we are considering a transfer option. Therefore, it will be interesting whether it will be possible to leave the "iron horses" in Alvani and how a group of 7 people can teleport to Omalo by two cars or are there options for more spacious transport.
Thank you very much!
There is no road from Khevsureti (there - Shatili) to Tusheti - you can go on foot with a guide, they said, it’s three days to go somewhere. So, from Khevsureti you have to go down to the plain, go through Tbilisi to Kakheti and up there.
Your route is unrealistic, shall we say.)
There is one more question - I don't know if all these roads will be passable in May. At least I know that the road to Tusheti can be covered with snow even in May - it was in the news somewhere.
Today the only road connecting with Tusheti runs along the gorge of the Stori River through the Abano Pass. However, due to snow, the road is closed between late October and mid-May. The local population has the opportunity to get to the nearest regional center only by helicopter of the border guards. However, it flies once a month.
The clearing of the road connecting with Tusheti has begun. As the gamgebeli of Akhmeta municipality Koba Maisuradze told the Information Center of Kakheti, by the end of the month the road will presumably be cleared to the pass, and by May 15 - already to Omalo -
But even if there is no snow there, the road condition may be very bad - snow melting and all that - it's not easy there without it. And the roads along Tusheti itself may be impassable this season.
I would be in your place, inquired about the question closer to May. For example, I would call the guesthouse mentioned in the post and ask if it is realistic to get to them. If they say yes, then I would go to Tusheti. Half a day there, three days there, half a day from there is already five days. The rest can be spent in Kakheti, for example - it is just on the plain near Tusheti. You can go to the Vashlovani National Park - an interesting place (I haven't been, but there are a lot of pictures on the net, this year I will go). In May it will be green there, all these fantastic landscapes ...
If suddenly there is no road to Tusheti, then you can go to Svaneti - it will definitely be possible to drive there, even in winter, even in summer. If the road to the highlands is in order, it will be possible to go from Mestia to Ushguli - the very top of Georgia ...
Again, in Svaneti you can easily endure five days, and a week too.
If you really want to go further, and suddenly there will be such an opportunity, then you can go down from Ushguli to Lentekhi, and then to Kutaisi - a very difficult route, judging by Internet sources, on the Ushguli - Lentekhi section they still go - for example:
Lentekhi - Ushguli This is by far the hardest part in Svaneti. There are several mountain passes on this approach. These include Zagaro Pass and Ughviri Pass (2700 meters). Both can be snowed in late into the season so check conditions or be prepared to walk. There are for sure no marshrutkas between Lentekhi and Ushguli. The road is a seasonal road for summer driving only, means that there is absolutely no "real traffic" but a few foreighners do this road as a special challenge with their jeeps. User: seee waited in Ushguli towards Lentekhi in August 2011 one complete day without seeing a car. The next day he walked more than 10 kilometers, until a Polish jeep picked him up. Bear in mind that the road leads approx. 45 km through absolute wilderness and some villages along this length marked on various maps are already abandoned.
What will happen in May on this site - no one will say - depends on the year, the weather. It is quite possible that you will not be able to drive. Even if you pass, what will happen to your car - only God knows. If you break down in the mountains, you will have to wait for the repairmen, for example, a day or two. I don't want to intimidate, but it is worth considering the question of where you are going and what awaits you there in May.
In good weather it is compensated by the majestic views of the Giants of the Caucasus. An unforgettable view of Ailama. As a tax, it can be compared to the views of Ushba from the road to Mestia from the turn to Becho, but here Ailama is much closer. Good luck !!!
Thanks! I wish you that with a trip to Georgia everything will grow together more successfully!)
Revaz (guest) is speaking on Thu, 13/09/2012 - 22:53.
Hi David!
Thanks for the very detailed story, better than any Lonely Planet.
I'm going to Georgia with my St. Petersburg friends. We haven't decided where we will go yet, but we will rely on your blog.
By the way, if you are in Tbilisi at the beginning of October, you can meet.
Tusheti (თუშეთი) is an area in a hard-to-reach region of northeastern Georgia, bordering Chechnya in the north and Dagestan in the east.
This area belongs to Akhmetinsky district Kakheti and in fact the indigenous people who previously inhabited Tusheti live most of the time in northern Kakheti.
A seasonal method of residence is adopted here: since the connection with the “mainland” exists only from the end of June to mid-October (during the same period, tourists can get to Tusheti).
Tushins migrate like migratory birds from the village Kvemo-Alvani Alazani Valley to their ancestral nests in large villages of Tusheti: Omalo (Omalo), Shenako (Shenako), Dartlo (Dartlo) and smaller farms.
Tusheti in Georgia
Compared to the mountaineers of the western part of Georgia (Svaneti), the Tushins are Orthodox Christians.
But with certain differences:
- residents of Tushin do not eat pork
- do not allow women to visit temples
- and according to historical information - previously they were engaged in sacrifices on altars (simply - they cut rams).
Although, to be honest, I have not seen any temples in Tusheti.
For example, in the village of Dartlo, the temple is a ruin consisting of three half-collapsed walls, where the court of seven elders of this village once sat.
The perimeter of this ruin is marked with a frail fence made of poles, and the guide immediately warns the girls that they cannot go there.
I must say right away that these three walls do not represent any pictorial value.
Tusheti on the map
Geographically, the Tusheti region is a buffer on the way from Chechnya and Dagestan to the fertile Alazani Valley, and earlier the Tushins often fought with the troops of the warlike mountaineers from the north.
Therefore, everywhere on the hills, there are towers of a characteristic pyramidal shape with a sloping roof and small loopholes up the wall.
As a rule, women with children and old people took refuge in such towers, and men repulsed an enemy attack at the foot of the tower.
Sentinels from afar saw the approach of the Chechens by the glare of reflections from sabers and shields, after which a mass evacuation took place to the shelters-towers.
The Tusheti region is inaccessible for the standard tourist.
There are no packets here at all.
The main visitors to Tusheti are tourists from Eastern Europe.
Most of all are Poles and, oddly enough, Czechs.
There are many enduro motorcyclists traveling on difficult trails.
There are hikers with sticks and tents.
We saw the equestrian explorers of Tusheti, but still most of them get to Tusheti from northern Kakheti along a mountain trail (I won't name a road) through the pass Abano (2850m)
How to get to Tusheti
It is best to rent a jeep with a driver, and in 100% of cases the driver will be a Tushina who has a house or relatives in Omalo or Dartlo and knows all the nuances of the road perfectly.
As I wrote above, all Tushin people move from the mountains to the valley in winter, and during the tourist season they tax or keep guesthouses in the mountains.
The jeep exchange with drivers is located in the village's central roundabout Kvekmo-Alvani (Kvekmo-Alvani).
It is best to arrive the day before the trip and agree with the driver:
- look at the car, talk to the driver and understand what kind of person he is.
In general, they are all normal guys there.
The car park is represented by Japanese SUVs with right-hand drive and all-wheel drive minibuses.
Those interested can cooperate and go to Tusheti in a joint, we prefer not to travel in cramped conditions and not in offense
When you have agreed on the price for the trip (there and back), tell me where to pick you up: they can come to Telavi or another point of the Alazani Valley.
We took a driver for 500 GEL for two days - this price includes everything (fuel, his accommodation and food).
By and large, there is nothing to do in Tusheti for more than two days, so it is logical to combine the trip to Tusheti with.
Season in Tusheti and weather
The season usually starts in late June and lasts until mid-October.
Then the road closes.
Alpine weather: hot during the day when the sun is shining.
When the clouds come, and in the mountains it is difficult to predict the weather, it is cool.
It is cool in the evening and at night - last night it was 9 degrees and a strong wind was blowing - a warm blanket in the guesthouse and a fireplace saved me.
The road is worth a separate story and is not an easy test for tourists, especially at the beginning of the season, when it is being restored after winter.
It can be called expensive for the first 20 km, and then I will call this high serpentine road with one track and an abyss half a kilometer deep - “point test”.
Although, if you roll the chacha and do not look out of the window to the opposite window looking at the sheer wall with stones, it seems to be normal.
The stray drivers come here and we met in the upper Omalo two awesome (from "where they got") Englishmen on a rented Mitsubishi Pajero (they took with them a few liters of chacha and two hitchhiker backpackers from Israel and Norway for courage).
But as a warning at the beginning of the most dangerous serpentine, there is a granite monument to four Georgians who flew into an 800-meter abyss.
There is also a bench and a table to sit down to remember, think about whether to go further.
With local drivers, the road is an attraction, beautiful views and shaking for 3-4 hours - this is how much time it takes to overcome 50 km of serpentine to the first village on the way deep into Tusheti - Omalo.
Yes, there are a lot of picturesque things along the way and at first you try to capture everything.
But in truth, an hour later it gets boring to brake the driver to create imperishable goods and just sit and look out the window.
Also a useful pastime by the way.
Omalo and the native village of Mimino - Shenako
Part of the film Mimino, namely, where he flies in a helicopter carrying chickens and cows to mountain villages - was filmed on a flat plateau between the villages Omalo and Shenako.
There are still remains of a maize runway and a helipad here.
It seems like you can rent a helicopter at the airport near Mtskheta, although now the office that was engaged in commercial transportation has reoriented itself to Svaneti.
The village of Omalo is, as it were, the administrative center of Tusheti, where the power structures, most of the guesthouses and even a shop where you can buy a bottle of water ( you need to take alcohol with you).
Omalo consists of two parts: lower Omalo and, accordingly, upper Omalo.
Upper Omalo is located at the foot of a hill with towers on top.
The village is in fact several guesthouses, one of which has a funny name “ Lashara“.
The owner stoically endures the ridicule, but in the end he will not stand it and will change the name of his guest house.
80 percent of guesthouses are on booking.com - during the season they say that it is necessary to reserve accommodation in advance: booking accommodation in Omalo (Tusheti)
But when we were there (yesterday), there were no tourists in the village except us.
Accommodation in Omalo
Bypassing Lashara (there was something concrete and a grinder was howling), we settled in a fairly decent guesthouse Guest House Shina
This place differs from others in that it has its own food area (I can't call it a restaurant) with a fireplace, plastic windows with double-glazed windows, and it's quite cozy.
I want to immediately dispel the idea of \u200b\u200bthe format and quality of housing in Tusheti: there are no hotels.
All there is is a guesthouse with rooms in which there are 2-3, sometimes more beds.
All beds have prehistoric box-spring mattresses and tight synthetic pillows.
Some guesthouses have shared toilets with showers, so when booking, pay attention to this convenience (by the way, in Shina, this was all right).
The cost of living includes one, two or three meals a day.
That is, breakfast or breakfast + dinner or “all inclusive”.
You should not count on any pickles: in Tusheti, all products are imported.
Even in spite of the fact that historically the highlanders were engaged in sheep breeding - all lamb is exported to the UAE, Turkey and Iran.
Dinner might include a tomato and cucumber salad, stinky sheep cheese, soup (usually canned with noodles), and a hot dish: butter-fried potatoes with chunks of beef, or butter-fried cutlets.
After dinner, there may be heartburn, so it is advisable to take phosphalugel with you or drink chacha.
Basically I listed the menu for our dinner, but in other places it's the same.
Horror! Everyone here loves butter and adds it wherever possible, as well as fries food on it ..
The crazed Englishmen we met with their friends backpackers apparently did not know that there were no shops in Tusheti, therefore, having arrived in the upper Omalo in the evening, they wandered around the neighborhood in search of food.
At that time I had already gone to bed, so Oleg and Ikrinka mostly communicated with them.
The owners of our guest house at this time closed their kitchen, leaving us a hall with a fireplace, an ax and a supply of firewood - by the way, the highlands are very felt when you chop wood - the heart tries to jump out of the chest and fly away like a mountain eagle.
So, being ashamed to ask us for leftover food - and we left half the potatoes and all the soup, the tourists invited us to drink chacha.
Ikrinka and Oleg refused, while the tourists pitched a tent on the wind turbine itself - on the hill and tried to cook something on a gas stove.
Apparently they did not succeed - they just threw chachas and fell asleep hungry - judging by their gloomy morning look.
Hiking in Tusheti
Speaking of tents and walking walks - this is fraught with acquaintance with a vicious Alabai as tall as a calf.
We decided to walk along the road, but the driver did not warn us about the inhabitants of the green hills where cows and sheep graze.
We walked a dozen meters and suddenly saw that the driver was waving his hands to us - looking back in the opposite direction we noticed a herd and a couple of huge wolfhounds in the stand "hey him!"
Everything ended well, but according to the locals, there are often cases when dogs attack.
In this case, you need to squat down and wait for the shepherd - the dogs will not let you get up and will try to attack if you run away from them.
Fig knows what the British did, but in the morning a healthy watchdog was on duty at their tent and then he followed them and wagged his tail - they didn't pour him chacha ...
Electricity, internet, hot water
There is electricity in the guesthouses - each house has solar panels and water heaters of the same type as in Spain.
That is, progress has reached the lower and upper Omalo.
There is no internet.
There is a cellular connection, but weak - one or two stripes on the iPhone.
Mobile Internet 2G - as luck would have it, but I managed to check my mail.
Dartlo village
It takes about 30 minutes to get to Dartlo from Omalo
Also serpentine, but more or less the road is rolled without furious cobblestones under the wheels.
Dartlo is a fairly compact village located on a hill at the foot of the mountain range, behind which is Chechnya.
Above is only a village Kvavlo - it can be seen from below along the watchtower covered with scaffolding - I didn't want to go along the serpentine, so we limited ourselves to examining Dartlo.
What I noticed: the residents of Tusheti use a flat stone, which is just lying around under their feet, and we have decent money - as a roofing material.
A crate is made on the rafters, then roofing material is spread, and a flat stone is placed on top like a tile.
I had a question - what about in winter, when drifts of snow are sweeping over the roofs. The rafters can withstand, they say.
In general, all the houses here look very rich due to the fact that natural stone is used in the masonry - small structures are simply folded without cement between the stones.
You can walk around the village, take a walk.
There are few local residents and they are indifferent to tourists. But it would be more correct to say that I simply did not see the locals.
Windows and doors in houses are wide open and there are no locks on the doors.
The paths in the village are narrow and overgrown with nettles, so walking in shorts was not comfortable.
What to do in Tusheti
Wander the hills (remember to grab a stick and stay away from flocks of sheep).
Ride horses.
Breathe oxygen-depleted mountain air.
Admire the alpine landscapes….
Tusheti and ...
As I wrote earlier, a trip to Tusheti goes well with a wine tour of the factories and farms of the Alazani Valley.
This is exactly the trip we got: 2 days for tasting, 2 days for Tusheti and home.
I wrote about winemaking here: and my story about Tushetia has come to a logical end - I'll see what happened with the GoPro photo and video and I'll post it in a separate message later.
