Georgia is an automobile and tourist paradise with incredible nature and mountains, magnificent monasteries and temples, delicious cuisine and hospitality.
Preface and preparation
For a long time I had planned to travel with my spouse, and more often looked at Georgia. In order not to be bored, we decided to take a couple of friends with us - on the road it is more fun and safer. I really wanted to look at Kazbek, swim in the warm sea and get drunk plenty, try the Georgian wine. Anyway - well, who did not hear about Georgian hospitality?
The issue of flying on a plane was dismissed right away - the prices for airline tickets bite hard. At that time, tickets cost about $ 300 round trip for one, and for four people the cost of the trip was quite serious. In total, a little more than 2 thousand rubles were spent on gasoline - this is at the expense of 10 liters on the highway and the cost of gasoline is 35 rubles per liter.
Georgia is a country in which Ukrainians are always welcome. There are no visa problems for citizens of Ukraine, all that was required by the documents was foreign passports. True, since I had to go through the territory of Russia, I also needed insurance for cars.
We drive quite often on our BMW X5, but decided so far for the first time. Before Georgia, a total of almost 2,000 km turned out one way: 503 km to Kharkov, then 125 km to the border, 1,300 km - across Russia, the rest - to Georgia. Since there were two experienced drivers with us, we were not particularly worried about this.
Departure was scheduled for June 26th - it was decided that we would stay with friends for a day in Kharkov, and from there we would start in Georgia, and we would stay on wheels for a total of two weeks, returning to Kiev on July 11th. Having studied the reviews and travel reports, we decided on the road: Kiev - Kharkov - Old Saltov - Chugunovka - Rostov-on-Don - Mineralnye Vody - Nalchik - Vladikavkaz - Georgia.
The route on which we decided to move
The road to Kharkov - ahead of Russia
We got to Kharkov quickly - six hours of a quiet ride. Then friends met us, and we went for a walk. Since my husband and I were in the second capital of Ukraine for the first time, we really liked everything. A hot summer day is a huge number of fountains, such that they are breathtaking, and the hand itself reaches for the camera.
Crystal fountains of Kharkov
Unfortunately, we did not have time to explore other sights, so we managed to wander around the city exclusively and have a tasty meal in the Nasha Dacha restaurant on Batumskaya Street. At five o'clock in the evening, together with friends, we moved towards our adventure.
Previously, everyone calmly traveled through the Donbass, but in connection with the current situation, it was decided to use a small checkpoint in the Kharkov region. I had to drive 125 km on a terrible road, but we were rewarded by the lack of a queue. There were few cars, so customs passed quickly enough. Filled migration cards and a customs declaration (needed for a car) - and we are in Russia.
Important: Particular attention should be paid to the fact that in Russia and Georgia there are very glass (we are talking about the front). Of course, we did not want to spoil the car, so we decided to take a chance, and simply lowered the windows, passing the checkpoints.
Rostov-on-Don, we drove around the district (it was already a deep evening), and then there was a night crossing (with a change of drivers and stops for coffee and just rest) through Vladikavkaz. Upper Lars passed closer to the morning, at about four in the morning.
It should be noted that the border does not work around the clock, so it’s worth getting there by five o’clock - just in time for the opening. It took a long time, about three hours, but it was worth it - we got a wonderful opportunity to enjoy the first amazing landscapes. To cross the border, we recommend that you study forums and on thematic sites.
Two tunnels - and we are in the long-awaited Georgia. Meet Sakartvelo!
Georgian beauty unvarnished
Holy Trinity - a monastery where you must visit
The first on our way was the village of Stepantsminda, we had to drive only a few kilometers. And to say that it was a shock - to say nothing! If you get the crazy idea of \u200b\u200bgoing round this place, don’t give in.
Of course, we were tired, but a second wind was opened from such beauty - and we could not restrain the enthusiastic okhov-akhov.
Gergeti - the lullaby of Kazbegi
The purpose of our trip to these places was, of course, the magnificent Kazbek and Gergetis Tsminda Sameba, in other words, the Monastery of the Holy Trinity.
Of course, we did not dare to ride in our car, since there is practically no road there, and only local SUVs can drive, which are not afraid of anything. We decided not to use the services of hot horsemen, but to walk, especially since it was only three kilometers to go up.
So, passing through the village of Gergeti, we rushed into the forest, and after two hours were rewarded with an exciting sight.
The opened view amazes the very heart of even the most severe and ever-seen traveler - but what about such impressionable persons as my friend and I?
First you find yourself in an open space, similar to the possessions of the Lord of the Rings. In the center stands a majestic church, with a view from it, confirming that the Lord really blessed Georgia. We heard the legend that Kazbek shows his peak only to good people - fortunately, we managed to see it.
What personally surprised me was that in such beauty tents stood absolutely free. It struck me, a child of the asphalt jungle, because in our travels we got used to a more or less pleasant view (not to mention the possibility of putting up a tent), you have to pay.
Local spring with holy water
Having enjoyed ourselves enough, we went downstairs, found an overnight stay ($ 10 per person), got a rest and absorb the impressions we received. Yes, I almost forgot about a great dinner - khinkali and khachapuri were simply divine
Tbilisi, meet me!
The next morning we set off on a picturesque road to Tbilisi. Having found accommodation in advance - the Lux hotel on the outskirts of the city right on the Georgian Military Highway - we were pleasantly surprised by its cost: the room cost $ 25 (hotel page on Booking).
Lux Hotel where we planned to stayi am
After driving about half the way and taking plenty of pictures with mountain views, we saw another attraction - Ananuri fortress. Amazed by the greatness of this fortress, it became clear why Georgia was constantly suffering from invaders.
Ananuri - the pearl fortress
Arriving in the capital, we settled and decided to go to Mtskheta - the oldest capital of Georgia, in which there is a Jvari monastery. This is a romantic place loved by everyone.
The confluence of two rivers is the best place for a monastery
Since Mtskheta is located very close to Tbilisi (literally in its suburbs), we got there very quickly and stayed there long enough. You can walk endlessly in this city, and local guides in the Svetitskhoveli temple made this walk unforgettable.
After admiring the confluence of two rivers - the majestic Aragvi and the bright Kura in the monastery, we decided to go to the Mtatsminda park, where we ended the evening enjoying national cuisine in the restaurant. The cuisine, wine, and hospitality of Georgians is a completely separate story about which you can write whole volumes
In the ancient capital of Mtatsminda
The next day, the famous baths of Tbilisi were waiting for us (choose the Royal - you will not regret it!), Which were inexpensive. We had to pay something around 60 GEL per person. We decided not to be greedy, and ordered the services of a mistress for 10 GEL. And what peerless tea and jam were from dogwood - beyond words.
Then we just walked, admiring this ancient city. Narikala Fortress, Peace Bridge, Puppet Theater, the famous Sameba - and this is a small part of what we managed to admire.
Sameba - the pride of Georgia
Sameba Cathedral
Bridge of Peace connecting hearts
Puppet show
We wanted to ride a motor ship - at our disposal for 25 GEL we had a boat with an excellent guide to boot. The evening ended in a khinkal - where else?
View of the city from Mtatsminda park
Sameba especially captures at night
In the morning we were forced to part with the Warm City (this is how Tbilisi translates) - our path lay in Borjomi.
Arriving there and renting a room according to local advice, we laid out our things and went for a walk in the park. We went to Old Borjomi - the most famous and delicious restaurant in the city, where amazing and special khachapuri is prepared according to a secret recipe.
Khachapuri with secret ingredient - love
Having rested and gained strength, in the morning we set out on a tour of ancient Vardzia - an ancient cave city, built by Queen Tamara. It is located in Aspindza, a district of the city of Akhaltsikhe. It was really scary and majestic - caves, temples and steep stairs are amazing. Entrance is six lari - and impressions for the rest of your life.
View from Vardzia
Dangerous Caves of Vardzia
Having admired the ancient caves, we headed to Kutaisi, and from there to Batumi, completing our vacation with a stay and swimming in the sea.
The view from the room
On this, my story is ordered. The return trip was predictable and simple. In the end, I want to say that Georgia is a paradise in which there is incredible nature and mountains, majestic monasteries and temples, delicious cuisine and hospitality.
Stavitskaya Victoria.
So, the distance from Elbrus to the Georgian border is 250 km. we passed hours for 4. Apparently, due to the approaching May holidays, queues began to form on the border. Just spent 5 hours waiting and passing. Fortunately, I uploaded films in advance to the tablet)) No special documents are required for arrival in Georgia: passport, passport, rights. If the car is not registered in your name, then another gene of power of attorney from a notary. I am writing this, because once we were driving two cars in Transcarpathia and one car as a result had to be left at the border due to the lack of a power of attorney)))
Rida and I were already in Georgia in 2013 and over the last trip we saw 85% of all the main attractions. So we pre-configured rather for a gastronomic trip, since both adore Georgian cuisine: khachapuri, khinkali, sulguni, lobio and so on (I will not tease much)))).
One of the most beautiful places is located immediately after the border crossing - the village of Stepandsminda. A very beautiful place in the mountains with its famous church on the background of Mount Kazbek. Having settled in the guest house near the famous Vasily, we immediately went to celebrate our trip as the first khachapuri.
Prices in Georgia: During our last visit in 2013, prices in local currency did not grow much. But the course has grown: earlier 1 lari cost 20 rubles, and now 32. Accommodation in simple guest houses costs from 15 to 25 lari per person (you can bargain a bit, especially if you spend the night more than one night). You can ask the hostess to include breakfast in the price in almost any guest house. On average, we spent 15-20 GEL on food for two at a time. Gasoline in Georgia is 35 percent more expensive, so in Vladikavkaz it is better to refuel to the eyeballs. Entrance to places of interest: monuments, zoos, cave cities is worth a penny. Everything seems to be priced :)
Well, the most important attraction in Stepansmind is of course the Gergeti church on the mountain. You can get there by taxi, but it’s not sporty) We left the car in the lower village and traditionally went on foot, passing by the epic places of our parking on motorbikes 3 years ago.
It’s not so interesting to watch the sights for the second time and we more enjoyed the views around. On May holidays, Georgia is visited by a lot of guests from Russia, we even met a big company from Ufa)) The Georgians themselves are very surprised at this invasion of our compatriots, apparently the closure of Egypt and Turkey, and Georgia itself is becoming more and more popular every year, word of mouth works. Only a lazy traveler has not been here yet)))
Another super cool place is Jvari Falls. To get to it you need to go back to Russia 7 kilometers and soon a pointer to the left will appear. Then walk about one and a half kilometers. The waterfall in the spring is simply gorgeous and powerful. I don’t know how it is in the summer, but I think it should be beautiful too)).
We have already stopped at the usual hostel "Irina Hostel". Address: Ninoshvili street 19b. We were even given a small discount as guest guests :) Unfortunately, our favorite room was busy and the first two nights we spent the night in a dorm - something like a barracks for travelers. The room has 6-7 bunk beds. Dorm is an ideal place for single travelers: in addition to budget, here you can find various interesting characters and travelers and chat.
Once, I spent the night in a dorm in Malaysia and met some great guys from Belgium. As a result, we went together on one of the coolest trips deep into the jungle.
Next, a few photos of the capital:
Having walked around the capital and tasting khachapurka in Adjarian and khinkali in every second cafe, we began to think where to go on a free couple of days. We decided to go to those places where we were not yet to gain new emotions. The choice fell on Borjomi - a well-known all-Union Georgian resort - a hospital. From Tbilisi to Borjomi, no more than 170 kilometers. Most of the road goes along an ideal highway. Now it is being actively completed, I think it should stretch to the Black Sea coast - Batumi (400 km). On the way we stopped in Gori, where Iosif Vissarionovich Stalin was born and spent his youth. The museum, contrary to my expectations, turned out to be very popular, many people are interested in this person, especially many groups from other countries.
Museum workers themselves admitted that the administration is actively putting sticks in their wheels and the museum lives on the brink of existence. I am convinced that abandoning its past, society renounces hope for a just future, it is not necessary to go far for an example, but we will not point finger as they say. The museum itself turned out to be very interesting, with many details and facts from the life of this great man. I highly recommend it to everyone who will be in these parts !!
Borjomi is located in a very beautiful valley in the mountains. The town itself is not big, but very clean, well-groomed and comfortable. Now there is a massive reconstruction of the old road and buildings, but in general the place is very pleasant.
In the city park there is a cable car to the top, where you can spend the setting sun.
There are actually located sources of the well-known Borjomi mineral water. I am ashamed to admit, but in a couple of days there I tried just a couple of sips. Well, here we are, not connoisseurs of soda))) We have a half liter costs 85 rubles, and there is free))
The discovery for us was that if you walk along the road after the end of the path in the park for another 5 kilometers, you will go to the open hot sulfur springs. This place was open and defined as healing even in tsarist times. Directly in the open air there are three swimming pools with warm sulfuric water. I, as a great connoisseur of thermal springs, of course floundered there like a frog))
In addition to the resort itself, lovers of trekking will be interested in the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park. The park is very large, but it seems difficult to get lost. There are routes from one-day for 15 kilometers to three-day long routes. We chose the shortest for a walk, 15 kilometers (black on the map). But due to the ups and downs, it didn’t seem very easy for us)) In addition, right in the middle of the route we were covered with rain, and then hail. But still I really liked the walk. Take a supply of water and snacks. Spring raincoat also to help)))
How did the journey begin
The idea of \u200b\u200btraveling in our family arose several years ago. Apparently fate wanted us to visit Georgia. Photos of Gergeti, the visiting card of Georgia, often came across my eyes, I often heard stories of colleagues and acquaintances about trips, in the spring of 2015 close friends visited there. In social networks, I signed up for several groups telling about trips to this beautiful country, which inspired me even more. And so it was decided - Georgia! Vacation in late August - early September 2015. Format - autotravel. We chose this method, because We travel to our beloved Crimea several times a year, the road does not bother us, and the car allowed long comfortable movements. In addition, I wanted to see the country, which implies the maximum number of movements. What is new to us is that in advance we did not plan the exact route and place of residence at all. This is really the first time, we decided to decide on the spot. As a result - they did not fail, it is interesting, exciting and, of course, a little adventurous. In order to play it safe, we even brought along a tent and other camping gear.
Things that you took with you
The main thing is a large trunk, which is very useful. Things for different weather. The windbreaker turned out by the way. Trekking sneakers, as were going to climb Kazbegi. First-aid kit with mandatory "Mezim" from overeating. Camera, laptop, tablet, adapters for transferring photos, logbook (notebook for me-navigator). Bathing accessories planned to get to the sea. Sun protection products. Camping equipment: tent, sleeping bags, mattress, table, dishes, gas burner with a cylinder. And necessarily - a positive attitude and anticipation of a wonderful journey.
Places to visit
Tbilisi, Batumi, Sighnaghi, Mtskheta, Jvari monastery, Gergeti church
Route
Kirov - Vladikavkaz - Stepantsminda - Ananuri - Mtskheta - Sighnaghi - Alazani Valley - Tbilisi - Jvari - Inguri Hydroelectric Power Station - Kobuleti - Batumi - Turkey - Martvili Canyon - Prometheus Cave near Kutaisi - Chateau Mukhrani - Stepantsminda - Vladikavkaz - Elista - Kirov
Mandatory Travel Points
Almost all places are registered in the route. From what we did not have time: Akhaltsikhe, alpine villages in Svaneti, Batumi sights.
- Food and drink - try Khachapuri, khinkali, wine
- Souvenirs - we bring decorative plates from each of our trips, this is an obligatory item of the program
Reaching destination
The mountains!!! The feeling of breathtaking arose even before the border with Georgia, at the entrance. The famous Georgian Military Road begins from Vladikavkaz. Gorgeous landscapes, the mighty Terek to the left of the road and the expectation that there, on the other side of the border will be something even more exciting ... And it really is! Mountains conquered at a glance. I can declare with all responsibility that in my travel addictions the mountains squeezed the sea from the first position. If you choose - I will choose the mountains
Places visited
Stepantsminda, Peoples' Friendship Arch, Ananuri, Mtskheta, Sighnaghi, Alazani Valley, Tbilisi, Jvari, Gudauri, Inguri Hydroelectric Power Station, Kobuleti, Batumi, Martvili Canyon, Prometheus Cave near Kutaisi, Chateau Mukhrani
The main surprise in travel
On the advice of one very good person, we went to Kakheti, Alazani Valley to the Graneli winery. They asked to show us the factory. Just two people came in from the street and wanted to see the factory. And what would you think? A nice man came to us. Zurab. Commercial Director of the enterprise. To us, two tourists, who came from nowhere, on a day off. And he gave us a real tour, industrial tour of the wineries and cognac factories.
He spoke about the intricacies of the process, about raw materials, equipment, personnel, export policy and much, much more. Then he spent in the tasting room and himself, personally, held a tasting for me (husband at the wheel)!
We certainly did not expect such an attitude. Of course, we bought wine there, a very, very tasty wine. We left a review in the wish book.
What is your first meal or drink?
At the foot of the mountain, on which the church of the Holy Trinity of Gergeti flaunts, there is an unremarkable cafe, from it begins the hiking route for climbing the mountain. Here were the first khachapuri and khinkali. Here we realized that Georgia will be incredibly tasty.
Meetings on the go
The most striking meeting took place in Sighnaghi. And we are very glad that we did not look for and did not book accommodation in advance, otherwise this meeting would not have been. So, Sighnaghi, in the afternoon, we are looking for an apartment. We reviewed several options, something was wrong. Are tired. They ate in a restaurant overlooking the Alazani Valley. We are looking further. These were the longest housing searches for the entire trip. We drive along the observation deck, on the right - a gorgeous view, on the left - a house with a terrace on which flags of various countries hang. American - the largest, caught my eye. It is written - the rooms are for rent. We decided - if there is a Russian flag - let's go. The flag was seen, a very small truth. We parked, climb the stairs, we are met by a man and woman of retirement age, but in full bloom. We find out that there are free places. The first question to us is where are you from? Answer: Russia, Kirov. The owner cried out in surprise: Kirov !!! ??? And he begins to explain, repeating: Kirov. Yurya. Yurya !!! With an emphasis on the letter Yu. In general, this meeting determined our stay in this wonderful hospitable house for 2 days.
And we were really welcomed as relatives. Soso and Tsitso, our Georgian parents, you can say))) Soso still served in Yurye in the missile unit back in the 60s. He recalls with pleasure, shares stories about army everyday life. Tsitso shares the recipes that I take on a pencil. We chat over a cup of tea on the terrace until late in the evening. In the morning before leaving, Tsitso invites us to the kitchen and feeds him breakfast, which is closer to lunch, or maybe dinner. We buy wine and chacha from Soso at some ridiculous prices. We promise to return. Upon returning, we learn that acquaintances from Kirov are going to Georgia, we send souvenirs to Soso and Tsitso and a large banner of the Russian flag. In response, already in October, they brought us a whole package of goodies from Tsitso. This is so cool, so nice !!!
We brought wine with us. Lots of wine. A lot of wine. Exclusively because they were driving a car. Having visited the Graneli winery and having bought everything after a tasting, we decided to arrange my Georgian birthday at home and treat friends with Georgian national drinks and goodies according to the wonderful Tsitso recipe.
And the most “crazy” shopping was with a bottle of chacha from the famous Georgian producer Chateau Mukhrani. I ordered this chacha. And we did not find her in the stores. On the last day, returning from Martvili Canyon and Prometheus Caves, we tried to catch a chateau and buy this chacha at the factory. They called, found out the time of work completion, searched for it Chateau, got lost, ran, ... but did not have time before closing. As a result, they bought this chacha in a small shop in a neighboring village, before that we drove into a couple of such supermarkets, raising questions from the police. Plus, they didn’t accept cards in the store, I had to travel around the neighborhood in search of an ATM. As a result - a lot of impressions, hysterical laughter and chacha, which was delivered to a very good person who ordered it. Chacha, by the way, is very expensive by those standards - something about 1000 rubles. But, it is clearly inferior in taste to Chacho Soso for 5 lari (150 rubles) from a 20-year-old oak barrel.
Swap meet
In Tbilisi there is the so-called flea market on the Dry Bridge. In the guidebook, which was sent to me by a very good person before the trip, it was written: “I like to walk along the flea market by the dry bridge. I buy any unnecessary garbage there. ” So we decided to walk there for half an hour, passing through. My friends! It is something! Half an hour there ?! We walked there for about three hours, if it were not necessary to leave Tbilisi - we would still be there. This market is not just a collection of different "antiques", although they are very interesting. This market is a collection of people, stories, memories ... For example, we talked with the saleswoman of a huge collection of cup holders. Did you know that somewhere in Europe there is a whole large museum of these gizmos? Now you know.
She is Russian, she arrived in Tbilisi during the Soviet era with her husband, a pilot who died during some kind of test flights. Left alone with two daughters in a foreign country. Although ... the country and the city became native. Children live in Europe (Italy, Austria), call to themselves, but can not decide. The heart is here in Tbilisi.
The longest walk
Maybe it was a mistake and now we would not repeat it, but this is one of the most vivid impressions. We arrived in Georgia early in the morning, got to Stepantsminda (Kazbegi), ate. We were off the road. Almost two days in a sitting position and without proper sleep. But the mountains beckoned. There, high, against the backdrop of the majestic Kazbek, the temple of the Holy Trinity towered.
The temple, which is on almost all postcards from Georgia. How could we miss these species? No way! Why didn’t you go to the mountain in jeeps? After all, they offered the same. - I do not know. I just don’t know. The owner of the cafe where we had dinner showed two paths to the mountain - steep, but short and gentle, but longer. They chose a gentle one and were right. They wouldn’t just climb into the coolest. Let's go. The sun is hot, on the left is a cliff. I'm afraid of heights. Our legs are numb after a car seat. The breather does not cope. We stop every 50 meters. We photograph the surrounding beauty every 20 meters. You know, 150 km of the Great Cross procession in physical terms was easier for us than an hour and a half ascent to Gergeti. Was it worth it? Definitely yes! The church, already at the top, has a spring. At the foot of the mountain is Stepantsminda. There was a breeze, a little rain and a sense of happiness from the conquered summit and the fact that we got to the country, which in our travel calendar will definitely take one of the most beautiful places. We descended along a short but steep route. It is very difficult. We recommend not to follow it or not to go at all, but to go. And of course, thanks to our Solomon tracking sneakers, without them it would be even more difficult. Although you should not be afraid of this mountain, it will be submitted to both unprepared and tired tourists like us.
Food - where is the best food?
I think Georgian housewives are best fed. It’s lucky for someone who gets to the Georgian feast, and if also with songs and dances, then in general a holiday. We have been to many famous and not very places. Tasty - almost everywhere. Come in, try it. Of the very best:
In the shadow of Metekhi (Tbilisi), Armazi Tskaro (Mtskheta), Georgian courtyard (Mtskheta).
What dangers await the tourist?
Nowhere else have we felt so secure. One fact - we decided to spend the night in a tent near Martvili Canyon, alone, without a soul, nearby, in the mountains. We put up a tent in the dark practically, because arrived late. Not scary!
The main danger on our way was a sleeping black horse that appeared in the night on a mountain road in front of the car after a sharp turn. She patted our nerves! Everything worked out, we did not disturb her sleep, no one was hurt.
Of course, there may be negative impressions of some local residents. But! For the whole trip we met only one such person. This is a shepherd who drove two sheep in Stepantsminda. He didn’t want to speak Russian with us. They offered English, I was surprised that we know. And then there was a monologue about how bad Russia is, that it took half of the country from them, etc. I did not argue with him; I politely wished him good health and said that we had come to visit their beautiful country.
All the other nice people who met on our way, very, I repeat - VERY kindly towards us, towards Russia. They know how to separate politics from the lives of ordinary people and the historical friendship of peoples. I think many will not be out of place to learn this.
Homecoming
You know, immediately after our return, we began to think about the need to go to Georgia again. We excitedly told friends about the trip, and infected them. We celebrated my birthday in Georgian style - and it was unforgettable. I learned how to cook khachapuri! And now this is my signature dish. Mom, with online tips, learned how to cook khinkali. Svan Salt has become our favorite seasoning. And I'm ready to listen to Mgzavrebi songs as often as possible.
With all the relative cheapness of Georgia, of course you can go both more economically and more luxuriously. Travel can be planned for your wallet, Georgia allows it. We believe that this is one of our budget trips. And on a budget, it definitely beats our resorts of the Crimea or the Krasnodar Territory.
Already recommended, infected with the "travel virus." Many of my friends on social networks wrote that thanks to my photos and posts, they also wanted to visit Georgia. And I know those who plan a trip this summer, and I am happy to share the route and impressions.
Updated 04.18.2018
We have returned! Travel to Georgia is appreciated by 5+ and we already understand that we will definitely visit there again! Of course, I would like to stay in Georgia longer, drop in all the places that we planned, but ... .. two weeks of vacation are not rubber 🙂
I decided not to break the report into several articles and to describe separately the border crossing and separately refueling. Everything will be here in one place. The only exception is the description of the sights, I will definitely put them out in separate articles.
I really hope that this post will become a guide to action and try to describe all the nuances for readers planning to visit Georgia in their cars. What will I talk about? The route to Georgia from Nizhny Novgorod, the description of the trip by day (briefly on the main thing), the border crossing between Russia and Georgia, where to stay the night after crossing the border with Georgia, gas stations, driving style, currency exchange, accommodation, attitude to Russians, the cost of the trip. And yes! Georgian food is worth a separate post.
Itinerary Nizhny Novgorod - Georgia
From Nizhny Novgorod to the border checkpoint in Upper Lars, you can get through Volgograd or choose a longer way - Voronezh-Rostov. We chose a longer path for two reasons. Firstly, it was planned to call in Belorechensk (my homeland) and secondly, the quality of the road on the M4 and M7 roads is much better than the Volgograd bumps. In any case, the final decision between “short but crappy road” and “longer but excellent quality” is necessary immediately before the trip. M7 is often repaired, because of this decent traffic jams accumulate.
We can say that we are lucky. Repair work on the M7 was in the Lakinsk area, but we practically did not stand in traffic jam. A108 - ordinary vomiting, a lot of people and trucks. M4 is a great track. There are several paid sections where the permissible speed is 130 km / h. Beauty!
Theoretically, in one day you can get from the border to the sea, if you do not call in Tbilisi. By the way, in the case of Georgia, it is not at all necessary to carefully plan the route. There are no problems with housing, with the Internet either. Initially, we booked at sea (in Kobuleti) 3 nights, but in the end we renewed it twice 🙂
Daily trip plan
Departure from the city of N at 7.00. As soon as they got into the car, they immediately discovered that the cigarette lighter was not working. We charge phones, a detector and a navigator through it. Sadness. We decided that we would get there, and we would look for an auto electrician in Belorechensk.
I really love the moment of departure in a road trip and it is radically different from returning. If, returning home, you stupidly press a sneaker, then at the start you almost jump from excitement in anticipation of new experiences. Each turn of the wheel brings you a little closer to the intended goal. I take a lot of pictures of the road in the direction of “there” and I am too lazy to photograph in the direction of “back”.
Around 20.30 we arrived at the Slavyanka hotel on M4 (598 km), where we stayed last year, when. Number took the most ordinary. The cost for three is 1350 rubles. The hotel has a cafe where you can have a good dinner and breakfast.
In family car trips, we never go all the way and do not spend the night in a car. At night you need to sleep in normal beds, so that the next morning you should feel rested, not broken.
By following the link you can choose for yourself several options for hotels on the M4 highway, depending on No. km - http://trassa-tour.ru/avtodoroga/m4-don
And again, check out at 7 in the morning. Whoever gets up early ... ..., he arrives earlier and has time for the festive table 🙂
The farther south, the hotter it gets. How nice to throw off your jackets and pull on shorts with T-shirts! In general, the whole trip to Georgia can be described as "And let's steal a piece of summer from autumn?" and we completely succeeded.
We stopped for lunch in the new dining room at the Rodina hotel (1076 km). Very decent and tasty. Prices are average. I recommend.
Not far from the village of Kushchevskaya passed the memorial "Field of Cossack Glory." They didn’t come in, they were eager to get there faster. Does anyone know what is there?
Spent the whole day in Belorechensk. We rested from the road and were looking for an electrician. It turned out that the breakdown is trifling, the fuse has blown.
Check out at 7.15. Today, according to the plan, crossing the border and checking into the first hotel in Georgia. From Belorechensk to the border checkpoint - 556 km. Exactly at 16.00 we were at the border. On the way we drove several Republics. Roads, almost everywhere, are good. The Caucasian driving style does not begin far in Georgia. We felt the full power of temperament along the way 🙂
After Vladikavkaz, and at the entrance to it, you can already see the mountains. As they say, better than mountains, only mountains can be.
There were no problems with crossing the border. 22 minutes is almost a record.
From the border to the village Stepantsminda just 15 minutes drive. We booked the hotel in advance at Booking - Red Stone Guest House. I want to note that in the border village housing prices are quite high. Our triple room with shared shower and toilet cost 90 GEL per night. Translated into Russian rubles, it is 2,500 rubles.
All this is not just. Kazbek rises above the villages, who loves to hide in the clouds and it is here that the tourist tracks and hiking trails begin. Kazbek is not shown to everyone. We managed to capture both options on the camera, with and without Kazbek. On the way back, the mountain with the icy top hid from us. I still thought then - that’s what an ambush is, people specially come to look at him and climb the mountain to the Gergeti church, and he, such a tsa, is naughty.
This day was the most eventful in impressions and incredibly long. In the morning we climbed closer to Kazbek and, in the evening, we were already in Tbilisi. We can say that we spent the whole day on georgian military road. Sights that were inspected along the way require a separate post -
Please note - it is very sunny, and we are in jackets. At 8 a.m., the smartphone showed 6 degrees of heat in Stepantsminda. I will not show more photos from the Georgian military road in this article). Very nice! Let a little intrigue remain))
We also booked an apartment in Tbilisi in advance, while still in Russia. Sofia Guest House was chosen for its large area and proximity to the metro. We somehow decided right away that we wouldn’t get around in Tbilisi by car. The cost of housing is 160 GEL for two nights (approximately 4,500 rubles). Read more about the apartment.
This day we are fully dedicated. For me, that’s how we looked very little, practically "ran over the top." The capital of Georgia has remained incomprehensible. You can’t rush here and it’s better to spend at least 3-4 days in Tbilisi.
Behind me is the upper platform of the cable car. Unfortunately, it did not work, and we were too lazy to go uphill to the fortress on foot. It was very hot in Tbilisi that day, I wanted to shade into the fountain.
We leave Tbilisi and move towards the sea. The night before, after some deliberation, the apartments in Kobuleti were reserved for 3 nights (160 GEL). Then we extended them twice, because we could not tear ourselves away from the warmest sea :). There is a separate post for apartments. To read
On the way back we stopped in. I really liked the city. You know, he has a kind of secular gloss. A real resort with a beautiful promenade and equipped beach. I love this photo!
September 28, we again sank into the sea 🙂 There is nothing special to tell. But on the 29th they decided to walk around, since it is located not far from Kobuleti. Such wonderful views open from the observation deck. The greens are actually so juicy, photoshop zero.
We left Kobuleti and headed towards the house. But, we went to the gardens)), I wanted to look at and take a walk around. Both really liked it.
October 1,2,3we spent on the road. It’s hard to ride for three days. All the same, the ideal option is two days at the wheel, then one day of rest. It gets dark earlier in the fall, so we got up for the night at the latest at 20.00.
On the way back, the Georgian military road flew much faster. We made only one stop - near the arch of Friendship of Peoples. I did not like the border crossing, but read about it below.
In Russia, we spent the night twice in roadside hotels. I will recommend one of them, but not the other. The first hotel is the Elite near Armavir. The roadside motel is inferior, although we have been allocated a two-room suite for 2,100 rubles. Everything is kind of old and hot water problems. I had to leave a cold shower and go straight to the towel to sort things out at the reception.
The second night was in the Lipetsk region, the hotel "Flight" (2 000 rubles for a triple room). It is easy to recognize by a real plane in front of the hotel facade. I can recommend this hotel.
Travel to Georgia turned out to be very harmonious. All the puzzles fell into place: the weather was lucky, the sea was incomparable, people are very friendly, nature is higher than any epithets, and the visa regime is as easy as possible for Russians. I know for sure that we will return to Georgia more than once.
Border Crossing Russia - Georgia
The border crossing procedure is very simple. Of the documents you will need: a passport, a certificate of registration of the vehicle (technical passport) and a driver's license. We drove with a Russian driver’s license. No insurance (medical or car) was requested at the border. However, be careful! From January 1, 2016, the Georgian side promised to demand a green card for cars. The country joins the “green alliance”. I still bought for the family, you never know what.
If suddenly the car owner refused to go with you to Georgia, then at the border you will need to present a notarized power of attorney in English. Russians do not need a visa to Georgia(if the duration of your stay does not exceed 90 days). The stamp is slapped into the passport right at the checkpoint.
From Russia to Georgia, cars can be reached only through one single checkpoint near Vladikavkaz - “Daryali”.
Do not try to enter Georgia through Abkhazia or South Ossetia. Relations between countries are, to put it mildly, strained. By the way, if you have a stamp on your passport to enter Abkhazia or South Ossetia, then you need to wait a while with traveling to Georgia.
The procedure for the checkpoint is as follows:
- drive up to the Russian border and lower all the windows on the car. Before the barrier you will simply be asked how many people are going to cross the border;
- drive on, choose the line for passenger cars and wait for your high point;
- drive up to the booth, take the documents and give it to the border guard. The first driver is a car driver, and only then passengers;
- you may be asked several questions: the purpose of crossing the border, where you are going, etc .;
- at the request of customs officers, open all the doors of the car and the trunk (they may not check);
- load in a car and drive along neutral territory to the Georgian border;
- at a Georgian checkpoint, passengers must get out of the car and cross the border separately (there is a special room on the right);
- the driver needs to go to the booth, give documents and politely answer questions of border guards;
- then you need to open the trunk again to show the customs officer the car and do not forget to pick up your passengers.
From personal experience: the border between Russia and Georgia, we passed smoothly - 20 minutes for everything about everything, but on the way back we got stuck in a huge traffic jam, in which we stuck for 3 hours. The Georgian border guards let us in very quickly, but the Russian side was clearly not in a hurry. Cars were launched in batches + there was a huge line of trucks. Our car was not inspected. Eh, I had to take more wine! We did not take risks and bought exactly as much as is allowed by the rules: 3 liters per person.
At the entrance to the border (and there and back) you are likely to see a whole string of trucks. No need to queue for them. Feel free to go around them, even if you have to go on an oncoming traffic.
Gearbox does not work at night due to the threat of debris flow. The information is current as of September 2015. Be sure to check the situation immediately before the trip. Most likely because of this, huge lines of trucks are accumulating. The threat of mudflows is very real. On the Georgian side, right behind the checkpoint, there is a terrible stretch of road. It just washed away. Need to go very carefully.
Gas stations in Georgia
The cost of fuel in Georgia is higher than in Russia, so do not forget to refuel a full tank in front of the checkpoint. As a rule, the number of gasoline brand is not indicated at Georgian gas stations, only the designation: regular, premium or super. It's simple: regular - 92, premium - 95, super - 98.
Almost all gas stations accept credit cards. Cash can be given directly to tankers. They go to the cashier themselves and bring you a check and change.
Fuel cost in Georgia: No. 92 - 1.88 GEL (52 rubles), No. 95 - 1.99 GEL (55 rubles). More expensive than in Russia, but cheaper than European prices.
You can track the actual cost of fuel on the site autotraveler.ru. This is a very useful resource for motorists, so I highly recommend it. There you can find the main traffic rules of Georgia.
Driving hot Georgian men
This is a complete trash, especially with no habit 🙂
Rebuild without a turn signal is quite normal. If the car is being rebuilt to the left, then you can hope that the driver turns on the turn signal. But if the car pulls over to the side of the road or turns right - you won’t wait!
The movement is chaotic, everyone is late somewhere and a lot of signals to each other. At first, it terribly enraged, and then we realized that signals in Georgia are a means of communication. If you are honorably honked twice, then they simply warn about their maneuvers, but they will overtake you. Well, yes, of course, the turn signals came up with nothing at all for this. If the beep is sharp and long, then literally it means: "Where you go, freak." Can you imagine what cacophony stands on the roadway in a large city?
In Tbilisi, we generally left a car near the house and moved by metro. See us such an adventure. If you can somehow get used to maneuvers on the road and even adjust to the general flow, then pedestrians in Georgia are in trouble. Both sides are to blame. There are pedestrian crossings in Georgia, but people cross the road wherever they want. I can still understand unreasonable pets that can easily walk along the highway, peacefully chewing dusty grass, but people ... .. Drivers are no better. No one passes a pedestrian crossing. It’s really scary to cross the road.
I started talking about animals, perhaps I’ll finish the thought. As in Abkhazia, in Georgia, cows are sacred animals. They can rest peacefully on the highway in the shadow, abruptly cross the road and, of course, not notice cars. In addition to cows, goats, sheep, pigs and chickens are sacred animals. This whole zoo goes onto the road in small towns and blocks traffic.
Yes, and yet - they will overtake you through a solid and prohibitory sign. This is normal and you will quickly get used to it. The main thing is to quickly rebuild your thinking in Russia).
Currency exchange
You can go to Georgia with rubles. There are no problems with the exchange of Russian currency. For 1000 rubles give from 30 to 35 GEL. The most profitable exchange was in Tbilisi - 34 GEL for 1000 rubles (no commission), and the most greedy money changers work in Stepantsminda - 30 GEL for 1000 rubles.
According to my observations, exchanging rubles in a bank is slightly less profitable than in ordinary exchangers. In shops and gas stations, we paid with a card.
Current rate: 1 GEL \u003d 27.61 rubles. To comprehend the high cost of a particular acquisition, we multiplied the purchase price by 30. Be sure to check the fresh GEL rate before traveling.
Housing in Georgia
I have already touched on the topic of housing above, so just to summarize. I don’t know how it is in season, but in September we quietly booked apartments for. Airbnb also offers apartments and rooms. I will say more, upon arrival you will also calmly find a place to live. After all, not all landlords have the opportunity to register at Booking.
Apartments for three cost us from 45 to 90 GEL per day, depending on the city. We were looking for a certain level of comfort. Of course, you can find cheaper housing.
Near the sea, I saw a couple of equipped campsites. The value of 15 GEL was imprinted in the memory. I just don’t know whether it’s from a person or from a car. If you like tents and romance, then wellcome to Georgia. One of the campsites functions exactly on the territory of the Botanical Garden, and the other - beyond Kobuleti.
Attitude to Russian
I did not notice any special relationship with myself. Everyone is very friendly, there is no language barrier at all. In the event of any difficulties, they always came to our aid.
In one of the roadside cafes there was no menu in English, only Georgian. The woman (for some reason it seems to me that she was the mistress) retold everything to us and advised the dishes.
I'll tell you about one episode. In Tbilisi, we took a taxi and the taxi driver himself talked. We did not force him. Honestly. He told me that all the people on the streets were sad, and earlier they always smiled and were cheerful. There is no work, local people leave for Russia or Europe. Sincerely regretted that Georgia spoiled relations with Russia. It was the most ordinary truth from the most ordinary resident of Tbilisi.
The cost of travel
Usually I calculate the trip so that later I can analyze the cost of pleasure.
Given: 3 people, Kia Soul car, 5,500 km, 15 days of travel.
Based on 1 person it turns out 24 198 rubles. It is probably not very correct to compare two trips, but for an example I can give a New Year's trip. For 8 days of travel, we spent 80,297 rubles.
In general, the cost of products in Georgia is approximately at the level of Russia. In stores, you can easily find familiar Russian goods. In cafe-restaurants, about 50-80 GEL was left for three, wine in the store costs from 10 GEL, transportation in vehicles is 0.5 GEL.
Here we have a trip. The Georgian question is not closed! I have something else to tell you :-). Here, for example, a post about what you can bring as a souvenir.
Read about it in a separate article!
The ancient capital of Georgia - Mtskheta - of course should be included in the list of places to visit. This is a place where the great history of the Georgian people, the inviolability of the Orthodox faith of the Georgians is especially felt, and it’s just a place where you can feel Georgia, breathe in, touch it, taste it in a very small area of \u200b\u200bthe old city ... taste it, finally !
From the history
So, Mtskheta. On the Internet, you can find a lot of materials on the history of this city. I will list only a few facts:
- Mtskheta is a holy place for every Georgian. UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- Located 20 km from Tbilisi, we can say a suburb with a history that will give odds to the city itself.
“The city is called the Second Jerusalem.” In Georgia there is no second place where you can find such a concentration of historical and religious monuments. It is here that one of the shrines of the entire Christian world is stored - the Chiton of the Lord.
- The city was founded in the second half of the 1st millennium BC. Therefore, Mtskheta is rightly called the "cradle of Georgian statehood."
- Only at the end of V century. AD King Vakhtang Gorgasali decided to transfer the capital to Tbilisi. But even after this, Mtskheta remained an important religious center of the country, the residence of Georgian Catholics - the heads of the Georgian church.
- Svetitskhoveli Cathedral - a place of pilgrimage for Christians from around the world and one of the most ancient and revered temples. Many traditions are associated with this place.
- One of the largest religious holidays of Georgia, Mtskheta-Svetitskhlobova, is associated with the cathedral. Celebrated twice a year (July 13 and October 14).
- In front of the altar is the burial place of Georgian kings, including Vakhtang Gorgasali - the founder of Tbilisi, Heraclius II - the king of Kakheti, the kings of the Bagrationi dynasty and others.
- It is Mtskheta that is called the heart of the Georgian church. All major church rites, including the intronization of the Catholicos-Patriarch, are held in the Svetitskhoveli temple.
Our story in Mtskheta
We arrived in Mtskheta on the very first day of our stay in Georgia. Tired of our autotravel 2500 km long, from climbing Gergeti. We decided to stay here, not to go immediately to Tbilisi. Having parked in the very center, within walking distance from the main square and the cathedral, we go looking for overnight. Searches took about five minutes maximum - this is the record of our trip.
We saw the Old Capital sign, a small three-story guesthouse building and the smiling face of George, the owner of our shelter for the night. About the hotel - everything is very simple and clean. We did not want to go and look further - they were too tired. Acceptable price - 50 GEL / night (on booking.com 75 GEL). The location is simply gorgeous - the entrance to the old city is literally 20 meters away.
They asked George where to eat, advised the Georgian Courtyard cafe, also within walking distance, walked along the small, pretty streets. The menu of us tired: 5 khinkali, flat cake, soup, eggplant, chacha (a bottle, for some reason there was no spill). All this cost 44 GEL - not cheap, but there is a whole bottle, from which we tried no more than 100 grams. With a sense of accomplishment - the first day was a success - went to sleep.
But! There it was. At the entrance to the hotel, George was already waiting for us. And then it began ... chacha, cramming, beer, caviar (George got out of the bins), crackers, dried fruits ...
A couple of Poles joined our makeshift feast - interesting guys who travel around Georgia on their own, stayed at the same hotel. In Russian, absolutely nothing. In English, George. We are in no way Polish. Very nice got a conversation! The ladies eventually left and remained Russian, Georgian and Pole to continue the conversation ... For some reason, everything ended with a political minute and a sore head in the morning.
From the vivid recollections of that evening: George had a grandfather - the hero of the Second World War, was awarded the Order of the Red Star. George is very proud of him. The rifle from which the grandfather killed 47 Germans in 11 days is stored in a museum on Malaya Zemlya. After the war, my grandfather worked as the director of a recreation center, he loved women very much, he died on a date, at the age of 69, from a heart attack.
And in the morning we slowly gathered, George offered delicious coffee, we went for a walk in the old city. Rain spoiled our plans and the resulting photos a little, but not the impression of what they saw.
Every square meter of this holy place is saturated with history and faith ... I generally liked Georgian churches - there is no pathos, pomp and attraction to decorating. Everything is very ascetic, monumental and very real there ... It is difficult to describe, but they reminded me of the temple of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem. Stone, faces of saints, coolness, candles and history ...
You will be in Mtskheta - just take a walk around the old city, along the Cathedral Square, look at the shops of merchants, listen to stories, taste wines ... The main thing - do not rush!
Look at the photo below - at the top of the mountain - the temple of the Holy Cross - Jvari. It offers a beautiful view of the confluence of Aragvi and Kura and Mtskheta.
On a note!
Not far from Mtskheta there is an excellent atmospheric restaurant Armazi Tskaro. We had lunch there twice.
This place was advised by one very good person who loves Georgia, often happens there and generally ... knows all about this.
"Armazi Tskaro" is translated as a spring. Indeed, the restaurant is located on the two banks of a small river formed just by a spring. The tables on the islet-terraces, on both banks, everything is buried in greenery, cool.
Rabbits, hens, ducks - a mini-zoo at the restaurant.
Lunch 1: ribs, kebab, salad, bread, khachapuri, beer \u003d 44 GEL. They ate too much and took half with them.
Lunch 2: salad, lobio, tongue, soup, kupat, beer \u003d 46 GEL. The second time was the last day of our trip. Apparently, we already really wanted to go home and ate plenty of Georgian food, which was not entirely a joy (I just wanted my mom’s soup, who was waiting for us at home).
You know, there are different opinions about Mtskheta:
- You live in Tbilisi - go to Mtskheta for a day.
- You live in Mtskheta - get out in Tbilisi. Housing here is definitely cheaper, everything is somehow backstage.
- Our option can be called forced, but not bad at all: night + day in Mtskheta and further Tbilisi for a couple of days.
It is difficult to advise, it all depends on the capabilities and preferences. If you are traveling by car, then this is not a special problem at all, with the exception of one BUT! Where he set the car, he dined there. And what dinner without wine in Georgia?
