I dreamed of getting to Georgia for a long time, while Alex was skeptical. The Caucasian peoples, at least those representatives who come to Russia, did not cause him the slightest sympathy. Nevertheless, I did not back down and gradually Lesha surrendered.
It was not necessary to search for fellow travelers for a long time. At first Vitya agreed and invited his girlfriend from St. Petersburg with us. That, in turn, pulled up a friend from Moscow (which we had to pick up in Vladikavkaz). Shortly before the trip, Masha (who is from St. Petersburg) fell ill and had to urgently seek a replacement. As a result, Anya, also Vitina’s friend, joined us.
Thus 5 people gathered who knew little of each other. Lesha and I knew Vitya, Vitya knew Anya, and Marina didn’t know any of us, because her friend Masha fell ill and had to refuse the trip at the last moment.
Accommodation is reserved in advance only in Stepantsminda (1 night) and in Tbilisi (3 nights). All accommodation booked on www.airbnb.ru
Overnight in other cities decided to search on the spot.
We agreed to leave on April 28 at 19:00. Ani was just finishing classes with the kids in whom she teaches dancing. Alex by that time was on vacation and was responsible for preparing things. Before the trip, I worked tightly, so there was absolutely no time for preparation and training. On the day of departure, I decided to work until lunch, as a result, at 18:00 I just got free. She flew home, put herself in order, left things in bags (Lesha naturally had a vain hope) and ran for Anya.
Hurray, closer to 21:00 we left the city.
The road was empty and calm. Fears about the tricks on the roads in Stavropol and North Ossetia fortunately for us have not been confirmed. We didn’t violate anywhere, we drove as it should and we managed to avoid road stains in this way.
But the lawlessness on the border (only from the Russian side), about which all who happened to pass it indignantly write, were fully felt. We arrived at 15-16 hours to the border and were otpil 15. If it were not for the terrible behavior of cars with 15 and 25 regions, then we would have crossed the border in a maximum of an hour, but no. For 5 hours we observed the rudeness and arrogance of the Ossetians, who cut and wedged insolently into the queue, while the border guards closed their eyes to this, pretending that nothing was happening. Moreover, a man walked openly and offered to quickly cross the border for 5,000 rubles.
When the degree of human indignation began to rise, law enforcement services arrived (which someone had called), but there was not much use from them. After a hike, looking at what was happening, after a while they went away and began to chat naturally with each other, and then left completely.
It is worth noting that this was not the case with the Georgian side. Quickly checked your passport, wished a pleasant trip and released. It took 5 minutes, no more.
Updated 04.18.2018
We have returned! Travel to Georgia is appreciated by 5+ and we already understand that we will definitely visit there again! Of course, I would like to stay in Georgia longer, drop in all the places that we planned, but ... .. two weeks of vacation are not rubber 🙂
I decided not to break the report into several articles and to describe separately the border crossing and separately refueling. Everything will be here in one place. The only exception is the description of the sights, I will definitely put them out in separate articles.
I really hope that this post will become a guide to action and try to describe all the nuances for readers planning to visit Georgia in their cars. What will I talk about? The route to Georgia from Nizhny Novgorod, the description of the trip by day (briefly on the main thing), the border crossing between Russia and Georgia, where to stay the night after crossing the border with Georgia, gas stations, driving style, currency exchange, accommodation, attitude to Russians, the cost of the trip. And yes! Georgian food is worth a separate post.
Itinerary Nizhny Novgorod - Georgia
From Nizhny Novgorod to the border checkpoint in Upper Lars, you can get through Volgograd or choose a longer way - Voronezh-Rostov. We chose a longer path for two reasons. Firstly, it was planned to call in Belorechensk (my homeland) and secondly, the quality of the road on the M4 and M7 roads is much better than the Volgograd bumps. In any case, the final decision between “short but crappy road” and “longer but excellent quality” is necessary immediately before the trip. M7 is often repaired, because of this decent traffic jams accumulate.
We can say that we are lucky. Repair work on the M7 was in the Lakinsk area, but we practically did not stand in traffic jam. A108 - ordinary vomiting, a lot of people and trucks. M4 is a great track. There are several paid sections where the permissible speed is 130 km / h. Beauty!
Theoretically, in one day you can get from the border to the sea, if you do not call in Tbilisi. By the way, in the case of Georgia, it is not at all necessary to carefully plan the route. There are no problems with housing, with the Internet either. Initially, we booked at sea (in Kobuleti) 3 nights, but in the end we renewed it twice 🙂
Daily trip plan
Departure from the city of N at 7.00. As soon as they got into the car, they immediately discovered that the cigarette lighter was not working. We charge phones, a detector and a navigator through it. Sadness. We decided that we would get there, and we would look for an auto electrician in Belorechensk.
I really love the moment of departure in a road trip and it is radically different from returning. If, returning home, you stupidly press a sneaker, then at the start you almost jump from excitement in anticipation of new experiences. Each turn of the wheel brings you a little closer to the intended goal. I take a lot of pictures of the road in the direction of “there” and I am too lazy to photograph in the direction of “back”.
Around 20.30 we arrived at the Slavyanka hotel on M4 (598 km), where we stayed last year, when. Number took the most ordinary. The cost for three is 1350 rubles. The hotel has a cafe where you can have a good dinner and breakfast.
In family car trips, we never go all the way and do not spend the night in a car. At night you need to sleep in normal beds, so that the next morning you should feel rested, not broken.
By following the link you can choose for yourself several options for hotels on the M4 highway, depending on No. km - http://trassa-tour.ru/avtodoroga/m4-don
And again, check out at 7 in the morning. Whoever gets up early ... ..., he arrives earlier and has time for the festive table 🙂
The farther south, the hotter it gets. How nice to throw off your jackets and pull on shorts with T-shirts! In general, the whole trip to Georgia can be described as "And let's steal a piece of summer from autumn?" and we completely succeeded.
We stopped for lunch in the new dining room at the Rodina hotel (1076 km). Very decent and tasty. Prices are average. I recommend.
Not far from the village of Kushchevskaya passed the memorial "Field of Cossack Glory." They didn’t come in, they were eager to get there faster. Does anyone know what is there?
Spent the whole day in Belorechensk. We rested from the road and were looking for an electrician. It turned out that the breakdown is trifling, the fuse has blown.
Check out at 7.15. Today, according to the plan, crossing the border and checking into the first hotel in Georgia. From Belorechensk to the border checkpoint - 556 km. Exactly at 16.00 we were at the border. On the way we drove several Republics. Roads, almost everywhere, are good. The Caucasian driving style does not begin far in Georgia. We felt the full power of temperament along the way 🙂
After Vladikavkaz, and at the entrance to it, you can already see the mountains. As they say, better than mountains, only mountains can be.
There were no problems with crossing the border. 22 minutes is almost a record.
From the border to the village Stepantsminda just 15 minutes drive. We booked the hotel in advance at Booking - Red Stone Guest House. I want to note that in the border village housing prices are quite high. Our triple room with shared shower and toilet cost 90 GEL per night. Translated into Russian rubles, it is 2,500 rubles.
All this is not just. Kazbek rises above the villages, who loves to hide in the clouds and it is here that the tourist tracks and hiking trails begin. Kazbek is not shown to everyone. We managed to capture both options on the camera, with and without Kazbek. On the way back, the mountain with the icy top hid from us. I still thought then - that’s what an ambush is, people specially come to look at him and climb the mountain to the Gergeti church, and he, such a tsa, is naughty.
This day was the most eventful in impressions and incredibly long. In the morning we climbed closer to Kazbek and, in the evening, we were already in Tbilisi. We can say that we spent the whole day on georgian military road. Sights that were inspected along the way require a separate post -
Please note - it is very sunny, and we are in jackets. At 8 a.m., the smartphone showed 6 degrees of heat in Stepantsminda. I will not show more photos from the Georgian military road in this article). Very nice! Let a little intrigue remain))
We also booked an apartment in Tbilisi in advance, while still in Russia. Sofia Guest House was chosen for its large area and proximity to the metro. We somehow decided right away that we wouldn’t get around in Tbilisi by car. The cost of housing is 160 GEL for two nights (approximately 4,500 rubles). Read more about the apartment.
This day we are fully dedicated. For me, that’s how we looked very little, practically "ran over the top." The capital of Georgia has remained incomprehensible. You can’t rush here and it’s better to spend at least 3-4 days in Tbilisi.
Behind me is the upper platform of the cable car. Unfortunately, it did not work, and we were too lazy to go uphill to the fortress on foot. It was very hot in Tbilisi that day, I wanted to shade into the fountain.
We leave Tbilisi and move towards the sea. The night before, after some deliberation, the apartments in Kobuleti were reserved for 3 nights (160 GEL). Then we extended them twice, because we could not tear ourselves away from the warmest sea :). There is a separate post for apartments. To read
On the way back we stopped in. I really liked the city. You know, he has a kind of secular gloss. A real resort with a beautiful promenade and equipped beach. I love this photo!
September 28, we again sank into the sea 🙂 There is nothing special to tell. But on the 29th they decided to take a walk around, since it is not far from Kobuleti. Such wonderful views open from the observation deck. The greens are actually so juicy, photoshop zero.
We left Kobuleti and headed towards the house. But, we went to the gardens)), I wanted to look at and take a walk around. Both really liked it.
October 1,2,3we spent on the road. It’s hard to ride for three days. All the same, the ideal option is two days at the wheel, then one day of rest. It gets dark earlier in the fall, so we got up for the night at the latest at 20.00.
On the way back, the Georgian military road flew much faster. We made only one stop - near the arch of Friendship of Peoples. I did not like the border crossing, but read about it below.
In Russia, we spent the night twice in roadside hotels. I will recommend one of them, but not the other. The first hotel is the Elite near Armavir. The roadside motel is inferior, although we have been allocated a two-room suite for 2,100 rubles. Everything is kind of old and hot water problems. I had to leave a cold shower and go straight to the towel to sort things out at the reception.
The second night was in the Lipetsk region, the hotel "Flight" (2 000 rubles for a triple room). It is easy to recognize by a real plane in front of the hotel facade. I can recommend this hotel.
Travel to Georgia turned out to be very harmonious. All the puzzles fell into place: the weather was lucky, the sea was incomparable, people are very friendly, nature is higher than any epithets, and the visa regime is as easy as possible for Russians. I know for sure that we will return to Georgia more than once.
Border Crossing Russia - Georgia
The border crossing procedure is very simple. Of the documents you will need: a passport, a certificate of registration of the vehicle (technical passport) and a driver's license. We drove with a Russian driver’s license. No insurance (medical or car) was requested at the border. However, be careful! From January 1, 2016, the Georgian side promised to demand a green card for cars. The country joins the “green alliance”. I still bought for the family, you never know what.
If suddenly the car owner refused to go with you to Georgia, then at the border you will need to present a notarized power of attorney in English. Russians do not need a visa to Georgia(if the duration of your stay does not exceed 90 days). The stamp is slapped into the passport right at the checkpoint.
From Russia to Georgia, cars can be reached only through one single checkpoint near Vladikavkaz - “Daryali”.
Do not try to enter Georgia through Abkhazia or South Ossetia. Relations between countries are, to put it mildly, strained. By the way, if you have a stamp on your passport to enter Abkhazia or South Ossetia, then you need to wait a while with traveling to Georgia.
The procedure for the checkpoint is as follows:
- drive up to the Russian border and lower all the windows on the car. Before the barrier you will simply be asked how many people are going to cross the border;
- drive on, choose the line for passenger cars and wait for your high point;
- drive up to the booth, take the documents and give it to the border guard. The first driver is a car driver, and only then passengers;
- you may be asked several questions: the purpose of crossing the border, where you are going, etc .;
- at the request of customs officers, open all the doors of the car and the trunk (they may not check);
- load in a car and drive along neutral territory to the Georgian border;
- at a Georgian checkpoint, passengers must get out of the car and cross the border separately (there is a special room on the right);
- the driver needs to go to the booth, give documents and politely answer questions of border guards;
- then you need to open the trunk again to show the customs officer the car and do not forget to pick up your passengers.
From personal experience: the border between Russia and Georgia, we passed smoothly - 20 minutes for everything about everything, but on the way back we got stuck in a huge traffic jam, in which we stuck for 3 hours. The Georgian border guards let us in very quickly, but the Russian side was clearly not in a hurry. Cars were launched in batches + there was a huge line of trucks. Our car was not inspected. Eh, I had to take more wine! We did not take risks and bought exactly as much as is allowed by the rules: 3 liters per person.
At the entrance to the border (and there and back) you are likely to see a whole string of trucks. No need to queue for them. Feel free to go around them, even if you have to go on an oncoming traffic.
Gearbox does not work at night due to the threat of debris flow. The information is current as of September 2015. Be sure to check the situation immediately before the trip. Most likely because of this, huge lines of trucks are accumulating. The threat of mudflows is very real. On the Georgian side, right behind the checkpoint, there is a terrible stretch of road. It just washed away. Need to go very carefully.
Gas stations in Georgia
The cost of fuel in Georgia is higher than in Russia, so do not forget to refuel a full tank in front of the checkpoint. As a rule, the number of gasoline brand is not indicated at Georgian gas stations, only the designation: regular, premium or super. It's simple: regular - 92, premium - 95, super - 98.
Almost all gas stations accept credit cards. Cash can be given directly to tankers. They go to the cashier themselves and bring you a check and change.
Fuel cost in Georgia: No. 92 - 1.88 GEL (52 rubles), No. 95 - 1.99 GEL (55 rubles). More expensive than in Russia, but cheaper than European prices.
You can track the actual cost of fuel on the site autotraveler.ru. This is a very useful resource for motorists, so I highly recommend it. There you can find the main traffic rules of Georgia.
Driving hot Georgian men
This is a complete trash, especially with no habit 🙂
Rebuild without a turn signal is quite normal. If the car is being rebuilt to the left, then you can hope that the driver turns on the turn signal. But if the car pulls over to the side of the road or turns right - you won’t wait!
The movement is chaotic, everyone is late somewhere and a lot of signals to each other. At first, it terribly enraged, and then we realized that signals in Georgia are a means of communication. If you are honorably honked twice, then they simply warn about their maneuvers, but they will overtake you. Well, yes, of course, the turn signals came up with nothing at all for this. If the beep is sharp and long, then literally it means: "Where you go, freak." Can you imagine what cacophony stands on the roadway in a large city?
In Tbilisi, we generally left a car near the house and moved by metro. See us such an adventure. If you can somehow get used to maneuvers on the road and even adjust to the general flow, then pedestrians in Georgia are in trouble. Both sides are to blame. There are pedestrian crossings in Georgia, but people cross the road wherever they want. I can still understand unreasonable pets that can easily walk along the highway, peacefully chewing dusty grass, but people ... .. Drivers are no better. No one passes a pedestrian crossing. It’s really scary to cross the road.
I started talking about animals, perhaps I’ll finish the thought. As in Abkhazia, in Georgia, cows are sacred animals. They can rest peacefully on the highway in the shadow, abruptly cross the road and, of course, not notice cars. In addition to cows, goats, sheep, pigs and chickens are sacred animals. This whole zoo goes onto the road in small towns and blocks traffic.
Yes, and yet - they will overtake you through a solid and prohibitory sign. This is normal and you will quickly get used to it. The main thing is to quickly rebuild your thinking in Russia).
Currency exchange
You can go to Georgia with rubles. There are no problems with the exchange of Russian currency. For 1000 rubles give from 30 to 35 GEL. The most profitable exchange was in Tbilisi - 34 GEL for 1000 rubles (no commission), and the most greedy money changers work in Stepantsminda - 30 GEL for 1000 rubles.
According to my observations, exchanging rubles in a bank is slightly less profitable than in ordinary exchangers. In shops and gas stations, we paid with a card.
Current rate: 1 GEL \u003d 27.61 rubles. To comprehend the high cost of a particular acquisition, we multiplied the purchase price by 30. Be sure to check the fresh GEL rate before traveling.
Housing in Georgia
I have already touched on the topic of housing above, so just to summarize. I don’t know how it is in season, but in September we quietly booked apartments for. Airbnb also offers apartments and rooms. I will say more, upon arrival you will also calmly find a place to live. After all, not all landlords have the opportunity to register at Booking.
Apartments for three cost us from 45 to 90 GEL per day, depending on the city. We were looking for a certain level of comfort. Of course, you can find cheaper housing.
Near the sea, I saw a couple of equipped campsites. The value of 15 GEL was imprinted in the memory. I just don’t know whether it’s from a person or from a car. If you like tents and romance, then wellcome to Georgia. One of the campsites functions exactly on the territory of the Botanical Garden, and the other - beyond Kobuleti.
Attitude to Russian
I did not notice any special relationship with myself. Everyone is very friendly, there is no language barrier at all. In the event of any difficulties, they always came to our aid.
In one of the roadside cafes there was no menu in English, only Georgian. The woman (for some reason it seems to me that she was the mistress) retold everything to us and advised the dishes.
I'll tell you about one episode. In Tbilisi, we took a taxi and the taxi driver himself talked. We did not force him. Honestly. He told me that all the people on the streets were sad, and earlier they always smiled and were cheerful. There is no work, local people leave for Russia or Europe. Sincerely regretted that Georgia spoiled relations with Russia. It was the most ordinary truth from the most ordinary resident of Tbilisi.
The cost of travel
Usually I calculate the trip so that later I can analyze the cost of pleasure.
Given: 3 people, Kia Soul car, 5,500 km, 15 days of travel.
Based on 1 person it turns out 24 198 rubles. It is probably not very correct to compare two trips, but for an example I can give a New Year's trip. For 8 days of travel, we spent 80,297 rubles.
In general, the cost of products in Georgia is approximately at the level of Russia. In stores, you can easily find familiar Russian goods. In cafe-restaurants, about 50-80 GEL was left for three, wine in the store costs from 10 GEL, transportation in vehicles is 0.5 GEL.
Here we have a trip. The Georgian question is not closed! I have something else to tell you :-). Here, for example, a post about what you can bring as a souvenir.
Read about it in a separate article!
Georgia is an automobile and tourist paradise with incredible nature and mountains, magnificent monasteries and temples, delicious cuisine and hospitality.
Preface and preparation
For a long time I had planned to travel with my spouse, and more often looked at Georgia. In order not to be bored, we decided to take a couple of friends with us - on the road it is more fun and safer. I really wanted to look at Kazbek, swim in the warm sea and get drunk plenty, try the Georgian wine. Anyway - well, who did not hear about Georgian hospitality?
The issue of flying on a plane was dismissed right away - the prices for airline tickets bite hard. At that time, tickets cost about $ 300 round trip for one, and for four people the cost of the trip was quite serious. In total, a little more than 2 thousand rubles were spent on gasoline - this is at the expense of 10 liters on the highway and the cost of gasoline is 35 rubles per liter.
Georgia is a country in which Ukrainians are always welcome. There are no visa problems for citizens of Ukraine, all that was required by the documents was foreign passports. True, since I had to go through the territory of Russia, I also needed insurance for cars.
We drive quite often on our BMW X5, but decided so far for the first time. Before Georgia, a total of almost 2,000 km turned out one way: 503 km to Kharkov, then 125 km to the border, 1,300 km - across Russia, the rest - to Georgia. Since there were two experienced drivers with us, we were not particularly worried about this.
Departure was scheduled for June 26th - it was decided that we would stay with friends for a day in Kharkov, and from there we would start in Georgia, and we would stay on wheels for a total of two weeks, returning to Kiev on July 11th. Having studied the reviews and travel reports, we decided on the road: Kiev - Kharkov - Old Saltov - Chugunovka - Rostov-on-Don - Mineralnye Vody - Nalchik - Vladikavkaz - Georgia.
The route on which we decided to move
The road to Kharkov - ahead of Russia
We got to Kharkov quickly - six hours of a quiet ride. Then friends met us, and we went for a walk. Since my husband and I were in the second capital of Ukraine for the first time, we really liked everything. A hot summer day is a huge number of fountains, such that they are breathtaking, and the hand itself reaches for the camera.
Crystal fountains of Kharkov
Unfortunately, we did not have time to explore other sights, so we managed to wander around the city exclusively and have a tasty meal in the Nasha Dacha restaurant on Batumskaya Street. At five o'clock in the evening, together with friends, we moved towards our adventure.
Previously, everyone calmly traveled through the Donbass, but in connection with the current situation, it was decided to use a small checkpoint in the Kharkov region. I had to drive 125 km on a terrible road, but we were rewarded by the lack of a queue. There were few cars, so customs passed quickly enough. Filled migration cards and a customs declaration (needed for a car) - and we are in Russia.
Important: Particular attention should be paid to the fact that in Russia and Georgia there are very glass (we are talking about the front). Of course, we did not want to spoil the car, so we decided to take a chance, and simply lowered the windows, passing the checkpoints.
Rostov-on-Don, we drove around the district (it was already a deep evening), and then there was a night crossing (with a change of drivers and stops for coffee and just rest) through Vladikavkaz. Upper Lars passed closer to the morning, at about four in the morning.
It should be noted that the border does not work around the clock, so it’s worth getting there by five o’clock - just in time for the opening. It took a long time, about three hours, but it was worth it - we got a wonderful opportunity to enjoy the first amazing landscapes. To cross the border, we recommend that you study forums and on thematic sites.
Two tunnels - and we are in the long-awaited Georgia. Meet Sakartvelo!
Georgian beauty unvarnished
Holy Trinity - a monastery where you must visit
The first on our way was the village of Stepantsminda, we had to drive only a few kilometers. And to say that it was a shock - to say nothing! If you get the crazy idea of \u200b\u200bgoing round this place, don’t give in.
Of course, we were tired, but a second wind was opened from such beauty - and we could not restrain the enthusiastic okhov-akhov.
Gergeti - the lullaby of Kazbegi
The purpose of our trip to these places was, of course, the magnificent Kazbek and Gergetis Tsminda Sameba, in other words, the Monastery of the Holy Trinity.
Of course, we did not dare to ride in our car, since there is practically no road there, and only local SUVs can drive, which are not afraid of anything. We decided not to use the services of hot horsemen, but to walk, especially since it was only three kilometers to go up.
So, passing through the village of Gergeti, we rushed into the forest, and after two hours were rewarded with an exciting sight.
The opened view amazes the very heart of even the most severe and ever-seen traveler - but what about such impressionable persons as my friend and I?
First you find yourself in an open space, similar to the possessions of the Lord of the Rings. In the center stands a majestic church, with a view from it, confirming that the Lord really blessed Georgia. We heard the legend that Kazbek shows his peak only to good people - fortunately, we managed to see it.
What personally surprised me was that in such beauty tents stood absolutely free. It struck me, a child of the asphalt jungle, because in our travels we got used to a more or less pleasant view (not to mention the possibility of putting up a tent), you have to pay.
Local spring with holy water
Having enjoyed ourselves enough, we went downstairs, found an overnight stay ($ 10 per person), got a rest and absorb the impressions we received. Yes, I almost forgot about a great dinner - khinkali and khachapuri were simply divine
Tbilisi, meet me!
The next morning we set off on a picturesque road to Tbilisi. Having found accommodation in advance - the Lux hotel on the outskirts of the city right on the Georgian Military Highway - we were pleasantly surprised by its cost: the room cost $ 25 (hotel page on Booking).
Lux Hotel where we planned to stayi am
After driving about half the way and taking plenty of pictures with mountain views, we saw another attraction - Ananuri fortress. Amazed by the greatness of this fortress, it became clear why Georgia was constantly suffering from invaders.
Ananuri - the pearl fortress
Arriving in the capital, we settled and decided to go to Mtskheta - the oldest capital of Georgia, in which there is a Jvari monastery. This is a romantic place loved by everyone.
The confluence of two rivers is the best place for a monastery
Since Mtskheta is located very close to Tbilisi (literally in its suburbs), we got there very quickly and stayed there long enough. You can walk endlessly in this city, and local guides in the Svetitskhoveli temple made this walk unforgettable.
After admiring the confluence of two rivers - the majestic Aragvi and the bright Kura in the monastery, we decided to go to the Mtatsminda park, where we ended the evening enjoying national cuisine in the restaurant. The cuisine, wine, and hospitality of Georgians is a completely separate story about which you can write whole volumes
In the ancient capital of Mtatsminda
The next day, the famous baths of Tbilisi were waiting for us (choose the Royal - you will not regret it!), Which were inexpensive. We had to pay something around 60 GEL per person. We decided not to be greedy, and ordered the services of a mistress for 10 GEL. And what peerless tea and jam were from dogwood - beyond words.
Then we just walked, admiring this ancient city. Narikala Fortress, Peace Bridge, Puppet Theater, the famous Sameba - and this is a small part of what we managed to admire.
Sameba - the pride of Georgia
Sameba Cathedral
Bridge of Peace connecting hearts
Puppet show
We wanted to ride a motor ship - at our disposal for 25 GEL we had a boat with an excellent guide to boot. The evening ended in a khinkal - where else?
View of the city from Mtatsminda park
Sameba especially captures at night
In the morning we were forced to part with the Warm City (this is how Tbilisi translates) - our path lay in Borjomi.
Arriving there and renting a room according to local advice, we laid out our things and went for a walk in the park. We went to Old Borjomi - the most famous and delicious restaurant in the city, where amazing and special khachapuri is prepared according to a secret recipe.
Khachapuri with secret ingredient - love
Having rested and gained strength, in the morning we set out on a tour of ancient Vardzia - an ancient cave city, built by Queen Tamara. It is located in Aspindza, a district of the city of Akhaltsikhe. It was really scary and majestic - caves, temples and steep stairs are amazing. Entrance is six lari - and impressions for the rest of your life.
View from Vardzia
Dangerous Caves of Vardzia
Having admired the ancient caves, we headed to Kutaisi, and from there to Batumi, completing our vacation with a stay and swimming in the sea.
The view from the room
On this, my story is ordered. The return trip was predictable and simple. In the end, I want to say that Georgia is a paradise in which there is incredible nature and mountains, majestic monasteries and temples, delicious cuisine and hospitality.
Stavitskaya Victoria.
So, the distance from Elbrus to the Georgian border is 250 km. we passed hours for 4. Apparently, due to the approaching May holidays, queues began to form on the border. Just spent 5 hours waiting and passing. Fortunately, I uploaded films in advance to the tablet)) No special documents are required for arrival in Georgia: passport, passport, rights. If the car is not registered in your name, then another gene of power of attorney from a notary. I am writing this, because once we were driving two cars in Transcarpathia and one car as a result had to be left at the border due to the lack of a power of attorney)))
Rida and I were already in Georgia in 2013 and over the last trip we saw 85% of all the main attractions. So we pre-configured rather for a gastronomic trip, since both adore Georgian cuisine: khachapuri, khinkali, sulguni, lobio and so on (I will not tease much)))).
One of the most beautiful places is located immediately after the border crossing - the village of Stepandsminda. A very beautiful place in the mountains with its famous church on the background of Mount Kazbek. Having settled in the guest house near the famous Vasily, we immediately went to celebrate our trip as the first khachapuri.
Prices in Georgia: During our last visit in 2013, prices in local currency did not grow much. But the course has grown: earlier 1 lari cost 20 rubles, and now 32. Accommodation in simple guest houses costs from 15 to 25 lari per person (you can bargain a little, especially if you spend the night more than one night). You can ask the hostess to include breakfast in the price in almost any guest house. On average, we spent 15-20 GEL on food for two at a time. Gasoline in Georgia is 35 percent more expensive, so in Vladikavkaz it is better to refuel to the eyeballs. Entrance to places of interest: monuments, zoos, cave cities is worth a penny. Everything seems to be priced :)
Well, the most important attraction in Stepansmind is of course the Gergeti church on the mountain. You can get there by taxi, but it’s not sporty) We left the car in the lower village and traditionally went on foot, passing by the epic places of our parking on motorbikes 3 years ago.
It’s not so interesting to watch the sights for the second time and we more enjoyed the views around. On May holidays, Georgia is visited by a lot of guests from Russia, we even met a big company from Ufa)) The Georgians themselves are very surprised at this invasion of our compatriots, apparently the closure of Egypt and Turkey, and Georgia itself is becoming more and more popular every year, word of mouth works. Only a lazy traveler has not been here yet)))
Another super cool place is Jvari Falls. To get to it you need to go back to Russia 7 kilometers and soon a pointer to the left will appear. Then walk about one and a half kilometers. The waterfall in the spring is simply gorgeous and powerful. I don’t know how it is in the summer, but I think it should be beautiful too)).
We have already stopped at the usual hostel "Irina Hostel". Address: Ninoshvili street 19b. We were even given a small discount as guest guests :) Unfortunately, our favorite room was busy and the first two nights we spent the night in a dorm - something like a barracks for travelers. The room has 6-7 bunk beds. Dorm is an ideal place for single travelers: in addition to budget, here you can find various interesting characters and travelers and chat.
Once, I spent the night in a dorm in Malaysia and met some great guys from Belgium. As a result, we went together on one of the coolest trips deep into the jungle.
Next, a few photos of the capital:
Having walked around the capital and tasting khachapurka in Adjarian and khinkali in every second cafe, we began to think where to go on a free couple of days. We decided to go to those places where we were not yet to gain new emotions. The choice fell on Borjomi - a well-known all-Union Georgian resort - a hospital. From Tbilisi to Borjomi, no more than 170 kilometers. Most of the road goes along an ideal highway. Now it is being actively completed, I think it should stretch to the Black Sea coast - Batumi (400 km). On the way we stopped in Gori, where Iosif Vissarionovich Stalin was born and spent his youth. The museum, contrary to my expectations, turned out to be very popular, many people are interested in this person, especially many groups from other countries.
Museum workers themselves admitted that the administration is actively putting sticks in their wheels and the museum lives on the brink of existence. I am convinced that abandoning its past, society renounces hope for a just future, it is not necessary to go far for an example, but we will not point finger as they say. The museum itself turned out to be very interesting, with many details and facts from the life of this great man. I highly recommend it to everyone who will be in these parts !!
Borjomi is located in a very beautiful valley in the mountains. The town itself is not big, but very clean, well-groomed and comfortable. Now there is a massive reconstruction of the old road and buildings, but in general the place is very pleasant.
In the city park there is a cable car to the top, where you can spend the setting sun.
There are actually located sources of the well-known Borjomi mineral water. I am ashamed to admit, but in a couple of days there I tried just a couple of sips. Well, here we are, not connoisseurs of soda))) We have a half liter costs 85 rubles, and there is free))
The discovery for us was that if you walk along the road after the end of the path in the park for another 5 kilometers, you will go to the open hot sulfur springs. This place was open and defined as healing even in tsarist times. Directly in the open air there are three swimming pools with warm sulfuric water. I, as a great connoisseur of thermal springs, of course floundered there like a frog))
In addition to the resort itself, lovers of trekking will be interested in the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park. The park is very large, but it seems difficult to get lost. There are routes from one-day for 15 kilometers to three-day long routes. We chose the shortest for a walk, 15 kilometers (black on the map). But due to the ups and downs, it didn’t seem very easy for us)) In addition, right in the middle of the route we were covered with rain and then hail. But still I really liked the walk. Take a supply of water and snacks. Spring raincoat also to help)))
We started planning our holidays in the spring, but initially a car trip to Georgia was not supposed. We had a Schengen, which ended in mid-June, and we expected to go to Europe, the choice fell on Spain, because we have already been to countries closer. Having estimated that in order to search for a more or less warm sea at the end of May and beginning of June, you need to get right up to Portugal, I thought about it, because the road is very long, there are a lot of paid routes, and the cost of a solarium is incomparably higher than ours. In general, having considered the costs of traveling alone and having consulted with his wife, it was decided to postpone such a long trip until better times and warmer times of the year.
After this decision, we were able to spit on the Schengen people who tightly tied us to the very beginning of the season in all warm countries and postponed the vacation to July. But the question arose, where now to go to relax in a car without a visa? It turned out that there are not many options at all, namely:
- Crimea - to be honest, they didn’t even consider this direction, because I was there six times in the old days, and to make an impressive detour through Kerch did not smile at all, besides that we did not see there?
- Resorts of the Krasnodar Territory would certainly be interesting to see the updated Sochi. I was not in this region at all, and my wife visited Goryachy Klyuch in my childhood. But somehow it was not drawn there, because there is an opinion that price-quality does not correspond to each other.
- Abkhazia is a more interesting option, as it’s already some kind, but the foreign and mentality of people is different. But having studied the Internet for reviews about this country, I realized that it was awesome nature, but the service got stuck in the 90s, and the criminal situation was frankly scary.
- Georgia is the last and farthest corner that could shelter us during the summer holidays. I immediately noted that Georgia is one of the safest countries in the world and occupies the honorable sixth line in this list. To this I found numerous confirmations of tourists who had already visited there and simply spoke with admiration about the local police. Nature and sights won me over - there was a sea for my wife and mountains for me, while the list of interesting places was just off the scale. The mentality of the local population was radically different from ours, but the laziness did not mention the hospitality of the Georgians. After looking at the pictures and reading a bunch of reviews, I found a place that 100% corresponded to our needs for recreation.
True, the parents were not enthusiastic about our decision, especially mine, whatever you say, but propaganda is doing its job. But the decision was made and the start is scheduled for mid-July.
Travel preparation
I prepared for Georgia even worse than in Italy: I followed the profile branches on the forums, read the latest tourist reports and slowly drew up a travel plan, which I constantly made various edits and notes on sights, places for a possible overnight stay, restaurants and other nuances. As a result, when I printed my memoirs before the trip and gave it to my wife to read it, she was a little stunned, 15 sheets is not a little hahanka for you.
I did not make any special manipulations with the machine: I refilled the fire extinguisher, rebuilt the first-aid kit, changed the front pads a bit ahead of time (we were going to the mountains after all), checked the liquids and refilled freon into the air conditioner. Plus he took a few spare bulbs so that it was possible to change them immediately and not attract the attention of the afflicted to remove my bribe with a striped stick.
For their own peace of mind, they issued and paid for medical insurance to Georgia through the Internet - it costs a penny and does not ask for food.
It was decided to abandon paper maps in favor of the navigator. I installed the latest versions of Navitel on my phone and my wives, uploaded the most relevant ones, from Russia and Azerbaijan (if the village goes down at the border, I will have to return through it), and uploaded fresh SpeedCams. In addition, just in case, a warning program for stationary cameras and ambushes of traffic cops was installed on both phonesMapcamDroid. But the main indicator of stationary radars and traffic cops shooting around the corner was the ESCORT Passport 9500ix INTL radar detector with the current camera base. By the way, radar detectors are allowed for use in Russia and Georgia. Looking ahead, I’ll say that I’ve never been taken for speeding, although it did take place.
Search for affordable housing in Georgia
Inside the car there was also a DVR. In principle, I consider this gadget mandatory for all car enthusiasts, and even for a trip through the territory of Kabardino-Balkaria and North Ossetia, where the corrupt traffic police are drooling through the saliva while escorting the car to the numbers of another region - this thing is simply irreplaceable, because able to reduce the number of your stops and fake charges.
Well, as for the rest, as usual: we got more belongings, warm socks and sweaters (what if bears are cold and roaming in the mountains?), They seized several souvenirs in the form of Alenka chocolates and national vodka. They took a tent, spinning with baits, two sleeping bags and blankets in case of a wild stop in the mountains or a campsite.
To increase the time spent behind the wheel, several cans of Red Bull and Burn were purchased, but from the power engineers I did not notice any positive effect in the fight against sleep. But caffeine pills, they took off a dream by hand and gave another 2.5 hours of very peppy taxiing, and then within half an hour there was a gradual fading of consciousness with a permanent yawn, so feeling that drowsiness was beginning to return, we immediately started looking for a place overnight stay. I also had a special device that I previously ordered in China for 3 kopecks and called it “AntiSon” - it looks like a hearing aid and hangs in the ear, and when the head bends to either side, it starts to squeak brutally.
We made boutiques on the road, took a chicken in foil, a thermos with coffee, a mineral water and juice, and decided not to take eggs. As a result, I had to do 3 calls together to take out all the gear and load it into the car.
Start of trip
In Georgia, from the capital of Belarus, Minsk, we left at 8 in the morning of Saturday, July 18 - this first day our journey. If we had the opportunity to start on a weekday, then we would have done so, but when the last working day is Friday, you don’t want to lose 2 days off and you have to go as it turns out. And it turns out to go along with all the summer residents, vacationers and tourists who occupy all suburban roads, create traffic jams and queues at the border - you can enjoy all this on weekdays, but to a much lesser extent. Departure time was also not right, it was necessary a few hours earlier, just according to the old Russian tradition, we started to pack up and look for passports on the last evening and went to bed only at 3 in the morning, setting the alarm clock at 6. We woke up for another 2 hours, said goodbye to the cats and finally set sail.
There are several ways to get from Minsk to the border with Georgia - the most popular of them is via Moscow, but I dismissed it, because I didn’t want to go there while all of Moscow was trying to leave the Moscow Ring Road, plus until Voronezh you catch all the paid sites. I chose the road to Voronezh, but if almost everyone goes through Yelets, I went through Kursk. I can justify this by the fact that the traffic in my case was several times less, there was no traffic jam in front of Voronezh, and the road surface was beyond praise. Thus, my route looked like this: Minsk-Gomel-Bryansk-Oryol-Kursk-Voronezh-Rostov-on-Don-Vladikavkaz-Upper Lars (border of Russia and Georgia).
And so we are driving, the Minsk-Gomel section is slipping fast, there we just widened the road and laid a completely new asphalt, buy a green card on the border with Russia and get to Bryansk. We pass it bypass and head to Orel, along the road there is a lot of heavy cargo traffic, which, apparently, are coming from and onto the M4 Don highway. But in the end, we leave for Kursk and there are very few cars, wagons meet once an hour, a road with a needle, a lot of pockets for overtaking, which are rarely used by slow-moving boats and do not interfere with calmly going on cruise 140. The sun is already setting, and I am giving in to numerous persuading his wife to finally stop for dinner. After a bite to eat, we continue our journey, all along the same excellent road to Voronezh. We pass in the dark its broken roads and get a shock when we leave on the Don highway. We are used to driving almost alone, but here mom doesn’t worry.
After all, I began to be chopped, after all, slept for 3 hours, so I stood at the side of the road and drink a can of energy, stretched my legs, it was already midnight on the clock, but we stubbornly moved forward.
Near Voronezh, speed cameras hang on each bridge with an alternate limitation of 40 and 60 km, my radar detector did not stop, and my wife wanted to throw us both out of the passenger compartment. But very soon we got into a traffic jam tightly for an entire hour, in which I would have safely fallen asleep if I had not taken a caffeine pill. It turned out that it’s just a narrowing of the road, which is not designed for thousands of cars ... it’s good that we drove this place at night ... Then there was a long section of repairs, so the stream went 40-60 km / h and after that I started to be covered . But finding a place for an overnight pipets is not easy - all gas stations are jam-packed with sleeping machines, they are standing in ditches, stupidly on the highway under the lighting masts, but you can draw pockets for sleeping figs. With grief in half, after tens of kilometers, they found one single parking lot near a roadside hotel near the village of Radchenskoye. BC showed a run of 1350 km, and the clock for 3 nights, not having time to fully get into the sleeping bag, I peacefully sniffed.
The delights of the M4 Don track
Waking up at 7 a.m. second day, I was surprised to find that the whole terrible bunch of cars that surrounded us at night “raped over” and, apparently, was rushing at full speed to take my place in the queue on the Russian-Georgian border. After brushing my teeth, as a stronger sex, I was sent to scout in a local roadside closet. Everyone left, there is no queue, I stand alone at the entrance and think: “Why didn’t I take a respirator and diving glasses?” Judging by the marks of suspicious origin on all surfaces that my gaze reached, I concluded that the throughput of this WC significantly exceeds the throughput of the Minsk Ring Road and that this institution is visited not only by Homo sapiens, but also some other life forms . I decided not to take any chances and looked into the next booth, which only ladies could enter ... Ladies did not go there for a long time ... In addition to inappropriate interior decoration, there was no door in the toilet and opened a magnificent view of the expressway 5 meters from the threshold. Turning my head around, I quickly went down to a small moat nearby, where the situation turned out to be much more cultural. He sent his wife to a men's closet, in which there is a door, and he, at this time, patrolled the neighborhood, driving away those who wanted to visit her.
We stopped at the nearest gas station to drink coffee and refuel, and, at the beginning of the ninth, we started further. By the way, I used only the services of gas stations of famous brands, trying to choose the ones that sold Euro-5 fuel. There are a lot of fakes on the road, such as Lukail, which is decorated in the same colors as the original, and many other trompe l'oeil - read the names carefully and don’t reach the last drop of diesel, otherwise you will end up on such a bootleg ...
Gradually, the M4 “Don” highway disappoints, I hoped to go on a cruise calmly, and then there were constant repairs, a lot of radars, a permissible speed of 90 km / h and humped by trucks that, in order not to go along the “washboard” in the right lane, go to the left one, which kicks up as it strains and slows down the movement. Although I understand that it is not their fault that the builders made a road that quickly went in waves.
Immediately after Rostov, near Bataysk, we were caught in a tight traffic jam for 3.5 hours - we drove 26 km. Outside the window it was hot, some cars were boiling, I had to pedal constantly because of the forward movement of a maximum of 1 building, the gearbox began to disobey when I stuck the first one for the 500th time. Due to constant tension, my right leg begins to cramp and I, from a big mind, decide to give her a rest, and I press the brake with my left foot ... Have you ever tried? Indescribable nonsense, well, at least pressed the brake, and not the gas.
After this hell, we decide to stop for lunch and rest, but, as I mentioned above, it is extremely difficult to find a place on this road where an ordinary traveler can safely stop, have a bite and stretch his legs. For us at first it was wild to see people stupidly moving out into a ditch and stop there for rest and snack. Well, how is this possible on the new federal highway, what kind of stupid people designed it? In the end, I can not stand it either, and I drive off the road into a small ravine.
The car is right there in the shade, I’m lying because my feet are not used to trampling the pedals in such protracted traffic jams, and just a little further away from my body are some more tourists who have chosen this picturesque ditch for a break. But on the left was a field of sunflowers, along which my missus was happy to scamper while I took a breath.
Soon, the Don track ends and the Caucasus begins - asphalt was cut off at the very beginning, and we trudged along for about 50 km, tacking between pits and potholes, but I was still happy because the M4 completely disappointed me. I am sure that it was done better than what it was there before, but they really did it "on @ off" - dick that on the side of the bow.
Highway "Caucasus" and a meeting with the traffic police
When we were driving along the Kavkaz highway in the Krasnodar and Stavropol Territories, we often came across traffic police crews who, standing at the curb, are filming with a camera mounted on a tripod. At first we slowed down, thinking that these were radars, but no - these were ordinary video cameras, which, as it turned out later, were located in the most tidy places where cars could drive out for a solid one. There are very few radars on this stretch of track.
Mineral waters entered already in the dark, really liked the local asphalt and roads that meandered like a snake, and prepared us for mountain streamers)
In Kabardino-Balkaria, immediately began to pay more attention to traffic rules, because heard about the local traffic police. When the navigator said the phrase “A stationary traffic police post is ahead” - the heart began to pound, the pulse increased, palms sweated and eyes began to twitch.
When passing through these stationary posts, you feel right in every cell of your body how many hungry eyes of the lords of the striped wand look at you from the darkness. In fact, it’s worthwhile to behave calmly near these places, you don’t need to look expectantly in their direction - we have nothing to do with extra provocation, and if they want to stop you, then peripheral vision will easily catch a well-fed servant of the law striving to cut you across. When approaching such a post, carefully watch for the signs of speed limits, which will gradually force you to reduce it to 5 km / h, and at the post itself, on the ground, there will be a "STOP" sign - a stop is strictly required. Stop every time - stood for 4-5 seconds and moved on. Sometimes such a sign can be found just on a straight stretch of road, and a traffic cop will sit in an ambush and wait for you to ignore it - pay special attention to ground STOP signs. In general, it will not be out of place to install the relevant traffic rules of the Russian Federation on the phone, so you can understand what they are trying to impute to you or what to breed. for some reason, they have the habit of calling you the maximum fine or punishment that is given only with repeated repeated violations.
Key things to know:
- Exceeding speeds of up to 20 km / h is not punished in any way.
- Check-in for a solid is punishable by a large fine of several thousand rubles, and repeated violation may deprive you of your rights.
Therefore, traffic cops no longer sit in bushes with radars, the maximum that can be found is a tripod in a ravine near the road, covered with a camouflage net with the addition of twigs for greater conspiracy. Now a new profitable chip - to catch for a solid.
With caution, we drive into North Ossetia and hope that it will carry us, because there is nothing left to the border with Georgia. Refuel on the road in front of Vladikavkaz, because there is no desire to travel around this region at night in search of another good gas station.
There are a couple of tens of kilometers to Upper Lars, but I drive carefully and carefully, because in the dark very often flashes of chandeliers of traffic police cars are seen that have overtaken their prey.
For a better understanding of what happened next, I will describe the local road. In these regions, it has mainly 3 lanes, and the middle lane alternately goes to one direction or another. So that the driver understands that for him the lane will end soon - arrows are drawn on it, which mean that it is time to return to the right lane, there are 3 of these arrows and after the last there is a narrowing.
So, I'm going so joyful along a very winding road - we tore them all and slipped through these dangerous places without loss! A car rides in front of me, and in front of it a slow motorcyclist, time is the beginning of the first night. The car goes into our middle lane and begins to get ahead of the motorbike, but he doesn’t have enough fillies - he does it very slowly and strainedly. My turn comes and I begin to drown, but I see that the arrows have gone and I’m unlikely to have time, and in front, along my lane no longer, a heavy truck is heading towards. I want to return to my lane on the right, but there, on the back of the bike, directly into the bumper, another car suddenly propped me up and I have no choice but to pull forward to overtake the motorcycle, though I don’t have time to return to my lane on time, and where- I’m driving towards the hull. Immediately, at this blissful moment, the car, which propped me from behind and did not allow me to slow down to return, turns on the ceiling. Yes, it was the Ossetian traffic police.
Conversation with Ossetian traffic cops
I pull over and stay in the car, do not even detach, because I read about cases when people were charged with it as a violation, the inspector allegedly came up - the driver wasn’t fastened, so catch a fine. I see in the mirror that a traffic cop comes out from the passenger side, and a machine gunner climbs out from behind and both come to me from different sides. I was a little anxious, but more from surprise, but my wife was completely horrified.
The inspector asked for documents, I handed him without question and immediately agreed that I had violated. He leafed through for a long time and eventually asked where the Green Card was. I indicated, he twisted it, twirled it and then asked again, so where is the green card? I say you hold it in your hands, for dumb ones it even has a characteristic green color. He did not relent and began to question whether they had been introduced for a long time, etc., from which I concluded that this guardian of the law does not even have a clue what the standard insurance for citizens of other states looks like, which has been operating for many years. Without giving me the documents, I was invited to take a walk in the patrol car to talk with the senior, who was sitting in the driver's seat. My missus was completely scared, and I thought it was good that there was a leather seat underneath, otherwise you never know what. He sat in the patrol to the main, and the machine gun with a sergeant remained outside.
I immediately began to frighten me with deprivation, but to my remark that he was given only for repeated violation, he smiled and praised for having familiarized himself with their traffic rules. Questions began from the series "Well, what are we going to do with you?". I was silent and discussed the current situation, because the fine was 5,000. Without waiting for an intelligible answer or hint from me, he asked the sergeant to bring a tablet with blank protocol forms, which for some reason were in the trunk. Apparently they are so rarely used that they decided to get out of sight. There was an awkward pause ... I am a law-abiding person, and our law enforcement officers are much less likely to sin with such things, so my experience of such negotiations is extremely scarce and small. But nothing came to my mind except to show him in the silence of the twilight of the cabin a splayed five, and to tell myself hundreds. But he is an experienced person - he has seen a lot, so he was not taken aback, nodded and smiled, saying: "Thousand is good." Well, what am I? I say "no-no-no, I thought about something else" - his smile ran off somewhere. The game "Who will show more fingers" began, didn’t play, didn’t? But here one important factor is worth mentioning: we filled up a full tank, so we had 800 rubles left and I needed to keep my nose blood within this limit. As a result, I could not stand it and opened my cards, voicing the size of the existing bank. But he did not give up and continued to repeat plaintively as a wound-up “Well, at least a thousand” - at least you take it and take pity on it. In the end, they give me the rights, and I go into my car to scrape off all the little things in the barn, I collected 700-800 rubles - they were not even counted, they just drove off into the night.
So meanly they stopped me 25 km to the Russian-Georgian border. By the way, I think that those crews that shoot everything on video cameras from the curb are more civilized and legally solder you 5 thousand with the accompanying protocol.
We moved on, discussing the method of our stopping and leaning towards the version that this “box” was specially played. But having arrived at the Verkhny Lars checkpoint and standing in the tail of the line, the same unfortunate motorcyclist stopped behind us, who sincerely sympathized with us, but did not give us money. It turns out that they specially pressed against me from behind, so that I had no choice but to break the rules. Do not think that at night in the rearview mirror you can understand that the car behind has a police coloring - this is not so.
But leave the bad behind, our journey led us to the border with Georgia. You get out of the car and the deafening roar of a mountain river falls on you, which spreads throughout the narrow gorge, and so bright stars shine in the sky that we can’t even see such stars in the village in the most severe frost.
I tried to consider where the beginning of the line is hiding, but in the dark it is very difficult to do, although I still examined the lights of the checkpoint. We laid out our sleeping bags, set the alarm clock at 4.30 a.m. to the opening of the border, and quickly rushed off to the kingdom of Morpheus at one o'clock in the morning. The distance traveled from the house is 2.400 km, $ 85 was spent on diesel fuel and coffee, and we don’t forget about the fine.
This is the first part of my report about a trip to Georgia by car ends, but here are links to continue: