How to get to the Great Wall of China. Help from a person who knows Chinese

In the early 2000s, Chinese citizens only traveled 10.5 million. By 2017, the number of such trips has grown to 145 million - an incredible 1,380%!

In less than 20 years, China's international tourism market has reached the highest position in the world, surpassing even the United States. According to the World Tourism Organization, in 2016, Chinese tourists spent $ 261.1 billion in other countries; in 2000 this amount was about $ 10 billion. According to preliminary data, in 2017, their spending amounted to about $ 300 billion. American tourists spent a relatively small $ 123.6 billion in 2016.

It is noteworthy that only 7% of Chinese - 99 million people - travel actively. For comparison: the share of such citizens among the US population is 40%, and in the UK - 76%. So the potential for growth in China's tourism market with a population of 1.4 billion is staggering. in China predicts that more than 400 million Chinese will travel by 2030.

According to the institute, this means that of the 600 million trips that will add to the current number by 2030 (now 1.2 billion people travel, in 12 years their number will grow to 1.8 billion), almost half will be made by the Chinese. China's international tourism market will account for nearly a quarter of the global one.

Not surprisingly, travel agencies around the world are already trying to attract a growing army of Chinese tourists. For example, the Visit Britain ad campaign started back in 2014. Tour operators, hotels and sightseeing officials were required to provide information in Cantonese or Mandarin, and to adapt products to the Chinese market and culture.

Where are Chinese tourists going?

The number of 145 million overseas trips can be misleading: the calculations took into account the special administrative regions of China - Hong Kong and Macau, as well as the island of Taiwan, which the state considers its territory. In 2017, 69.5 million tourists visited these regions.

Domestic tourism is also very popular with the Chinese. A lot of tourists go to Beijing and Shanghai. Due to the influx of guests on weekends, they even block traffic on the main streets there. According to Sally Pekk, an expert at Telegraph Travel, who lived in China in the past, destinations related to the country's recent history are also popular. For example, many visit the Three Gorges Dam in China's impoverished industrial region. Young tourists looking for a thrill travel to the mountainous province of Yunnan, which borders Myanmar, Laos and Vietnam and is one of the most ethnically diverse regions in China.

The Great Wall of China sometimes looks like this

Other Asian countries are also benefiting from the growth in tourism among the Chinese. The top ten destinations include Thailand, Japan, Vietnam, South Korea and Singapore. The USA and Italy are at the bottom of the rating.

Tourism Industry Growth in Thailand

1990 - 5.3 million tourists annually
1995 - 7 million tourists annually
1998 - 7.8 million tourists annually
2005 - 11.6 million tourists annually
2010 - 15.9 million tourists annually
2014 - 24.8 million tourists annually
2015 - 29.9 million tourists annually
2016 - 32.6 million tourists annually
2017 - 35.4 million tourists annually

The most popular locations are Phuket in the south of the country and Chiang Mai in the north.

As the popularity of tourism in China has grown, so have the rates of travel in neighboring countries.

Thailand, a leader after Hong Kong and Macau, received 35.4 million foreign tourists last year, an increase of 668% over 1990 (5.3 million tourists). In 2017, 28.4 million tourists came to Japan (887% more than in 1990 - 3.2 million). Only 250,000 travelers arrived in Vietnam in 1990; in 2017, 12.9 million people visited the country - an increase of 5 160%! All of these indicators would have been impossible without Chinese tourists.

China Airport Development

The tourist activity of the Chinese has provoked the rapid expansion of the country's airports. In 2017, nine of them were included in the list of the 50 busiest airports in the world, and three in the top ten. In 2010, these indicators were, respectively, six airports in the long list and one in the top ten.

Guangzhou Baiyun Airport, for example, is one of the fastest growing hubs in the world. In 2017, it received 65.8 million passengers, while in 2000 - only 12.8 million.

How do Chinese tourists look and behave?

A recent European Commission report says that for the Chinese, "time is the most precious resource." They prefer to travel efficiently - not staying in the sights for a long time. Chinese tourists in Europe are most interested in its art and culture, as well as small towns. They save on food, housing and transport, but they are eager to go shopping.

According to Sally Peck, when the Chinese come to Europe, they try to visit each of the largest capitals and go shopping there. The British boutique town of Bister Village, almost entirely composed of shops, is no less popular with Chinese tourists than Buckingham Palace.

“The Chinese prefer popular attractions like Big Ben in London or vineyards in Bordeaux,” Peck said. Little-known places do not interest them too much.

In terms of appearance, the Chinese prefer baseball caps or visors with their tour operator's logo, and also wear conspicuous photographic equipment, Pekk says. Also, according to her, many Chinese women choose completely unsuitable shoes on trips. For example, in the mountains you can often meet tourists in high heels.

Over-tourism risks

Cities such as Venice, Barcelona and Dubrovnik are currently suffering from an influx of tourists. Experts fear that the rise in Chinese tourism could make a stay in them even unbearable.

The purpose of this book is to answer two questions: "How to travel independently in China without knowing Chinese?" and "Why is China interesting?" The author uses a non-linear way of presenting information familiar to the Internet user, which allows him to show China in all its diversity.

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The given introductory fragment of the book Self-study guide for a traveler in China (Dmitry Finozhenok, 2015) provided by our book partner - Liters company.

Driving in China

How to travel in China on your own

The idea of \u200b\u200btraveling on your own in a country whose language you don't understand seems like sheer madness. But if a Chinese peasant from a remote village easily copes with this, then is it worth giving up to a resident of a big city? Moreover, China's transport system is designed for huge passenger flows, and therefore is well thought out and surprisingly friendly to passengers.

According to the visa regime for Russian citizens, the territory of China is divided into two unequal parts: mainland China and special administrative regions (Hong Kong and Macau).

About mainland China

Formally, this term is not entirely correct: two regions of Hong Kong (Kowloon and New Territories) are located on the mainland.

To visit mainland China, Russians need a visa (the most popular visas are tourist ones for 15 and 30 days), Hong Kong and Macau allow visa-free entry for up to 14 and 30 days, respectively. Remember, when you visit the Special Administrative Region, you are leaving the main Chinese visa area. Therefore, if Hong Kong or Macau is an intermediate point of your travel in China, then you will need a double-entry Chinese visa.

Major international airports in China (Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Chengdu, Chongqing, Dalian, Shenyang, Harbin, Guilin) \u200b\u200boffer visa-free transit with the ability to enter the city for up to three days. It is important to remember that when applying for a transit visa, electronic tickets in Russian are not considered documents confirming departure.

A tourist visa to China is the only thing that cannot be done without the help of a travel agency. Even if you are applying for a visa yourself, you will need an invitation from a Chinese travel agency or hotel. You can do the rest when preparing for the trip yourself.

Route selection

Despite the huge leap forward that China has made over the past thirty years, only a small percentage of Chinese people speak English and even fewer speak Russian. All that a tourist can hope for is globalization. The more modern a Chinese city is, the more friendly it is to foreigners and the easier it is to live in it.

How to recognize a modern city

American sociologist Richard Florida, the author of the concept of the creative class, established a direct relationship between the level of tolerance and the innovative potential of a city. The modern city forms an environment open to change, which attracts not only creative people, but also bohemians, migrants, various subcultures and minorities. Therefore, the easiest way to find a modern city is to follow them. If you want to find bohemia - look at night satellite images (the brighter the city shines, the more intense the nightlife); if you want to find geeks, look for Comic-Con venues, etc.

The second limiting factor in choosing a route is the climate. Most parts of China are quite hot in summer. Therefore, cities on the east coast are smart choices, where the proximity of the sea softens the heat. It should be remembered that in the very south of China, not only tropical showers are possible, but occasionally typhoons.

You should also pay attention to the level of air pollution in the cities you are going to visit. Try not to stay for a long time where the pollution index exceeds 100 points. Air pollution data are updated daily and are available at http://aqicn.org.

The further south you go, the more varied and brighter nature becomes. Everyone who has had to return home from the southern resorts remembers the oppressive impression of the gray and lifeless city compared to the south. Therefore, it is better to start your journey from the north of China and move south.

Between cities

China ranks third in the world in size, with an area only half the size of Russia. Nevertheless, the transport system of the country is built in such a way that almost every corner of the country is a day away from the capital.

Cartographic illusion of greatness

If you look at the usual political map of the world, it might seem that four or five Chinas will fit on the territory of Russia. But this is just the result of distortions that are inevitable when transferring an image from the surface of a sphere to a plane. The closer the territory is to the pole, the stronger this effect. For example, China is five times the size of Greenland, and on the map they appear almost the same.

There are two main types of transport: plane and train. The high population density in Southeast Asia allows many low-cost airlines to operate efficiently. Unfortunately, with my height of two meters, an airplane with front seats propping up knees is not the most convenient way to travel, I prefer trains, especially since the shelves in them are noticeably longer than Russian ones, and I have to spend the night only once.

CHR (China High-Speed \u200b\u200bRailroad)

Thirty years ago, the main type of locomotive in China was the steam locomotive. The first high-speed train appeared in China in 2007. Today, the length of high-speed lines (200 km / h and more) is 16 thousand km, which is more than all other countries of the world combined. The high-speed trains of the next generation, which are currently undergoing test trials, are already accelerating to 500 km / h. Trains have become serious competitors to airplanes and practically displaced them on short routes (up to 500 km).

Most train numbers in China start with a letter for the train category. There are six main types: C, D, G, K, T, Z. Category K is assigned to fast trains, there is a certain irony in the fact that it is currently one of the slowest trains in China (the maximum speed is 120 km / h). Category T stands for express trains, these are the same express trains, but with fewer stops. Category D is intended for high-speed trains, their speed reaches 250 km / h. Categories G and C are assigned to bullet trains with a maximum speed of 350 km / h. For safety reasons, trains of the last three categories run only during daylight hours, at night these routes are used by trains of category Z, night express trains of increased comfort.

Beautiful far away

If the bullet train ran along the route Vladivostok ‒ Moscow, the travel time would have been only 32 hours. Now Russian Railways needs more than six days for this.

Life on wheels

In high-speed trains (D, C, G), as a rule, there are only seats, in night trains of category Z - only compartments. And only in fast trains and ordinary express trains there are compartments, and reserved seats, and seating places.

Pass mode

To enter the platform and to exit the train station, you must present a train ticket. Do not throw away your tickets until you have left the station building.

The numbering of seats in Chinese trains differs from the Russian one, the shelves on one side of the compartment have the same number. To distinguish between them, the type of seat is indicated: bottom, middle and top. The third, upper shelf is available only in reserved seat cars. It is located high enough to calmly stretch your legs, but since the distance to the ceiling is not great, you have to literally crawl onto it. The lower the shelf is located, the more expensive the ticket, so the passengers of the lower shelves feel like wealthy people.


This is how the tickets show the lower, middle and upper seats, respectively.


During the train ride, a plastic card is issued as a substitute for a ticket. It is your pass to the car if you want to go for a walk at the stops. If you lose this piece of plastic, you will have to buy your ticket again. Half an hour before the passenger arrives at their destination, replacement cards are collected and tickets are returned, so don't worry about missing your station.

How to find your train

Chinese railway stations are designed for a huge passenger traffic, so it is easy to navigate through them. After passing the entrance control, find on the main board the number of the waiting room for your train (if there are several waiting rooms at the stations), in the waiting room - use the train number to find the exit to the platform. The gate opens 20-30 minutes before boarding, the stairs lead only to your platform. If you are not sure of your decision, just show your ticket to any station employee, he will definitely help.


The ride on the Chinese train is pleasant enough. All long-distance trains are air-conditioned, quiet traditional Chinese music creates a serene atmosphere, and large windows allow views of the scenery.

It is not necessary to take food with you on the train, carts with hot food regularly ride around the car. The food is geared towards the Chinese, but the lunch box contains five to six dishes, of which maybe three or four would be delicious. You will have to make tea and coffee yourself, at the end of the car there is a boiling water tap, and in each compartment there is a thermos.

Bed linen is not sold on trains, one set of linen is used throughout the train route. Therefore, never buy tickets with landing at intermediate stations. The towel is not included in the linen set.

The Chinese produce a lot of garbage, but they clean it up regularly. Every couple of hours, the conductor puts things in order, including wet cleaning. If you do not want your suitcases to be walked over with a doormat, do not put them under the seat, use special luggage racks.

In China, you can buy train tickets no earlier than 20 days before the departure date, therefore, going on a long trip around this country, you will most likely not have a full set of tickets on hand. How to solve this problem with the least amount of vacation time?

The most comfortable option is to pre-order tickets with delivery to the hotel. The advantages of this approach are obvious: all you have to do is pick up your tickets from the receptionist. The main disadvantage is that delivery only works in large cities. In addition, since you are ordering ticket delivery on a date and not a specific time, you will have to stay at the hotel for at least two nights. Of the several delivery ticketing services I have used, http://www.chinatripadvisor.com has made the best impression.

One country, one time

Since 1949, a single time has been in effect throughout China (except for the autonomous regions of Xinjiang and Tibet), GMT +8. This greatly simplifies travel planning, but the further east you go, the more daylight shifts. In summer in Shanghai, the sun sets at seven in the evening.

If your trip lies far from big cities or if you just do not want to waste a day in some city, you can pre-order the purchase of an electronic ticket, for example, through http://www.china-diy-travel.com. All you get is your booking number. Having printed out the document sent to you, you go to the station, and you will receive a regular ticket at a special box office. If you need help finding this box office, find any station employee and just show him your printout, he will tell you where to go - tested on his own experience.

End of introductory snippet.

"Do you want to go to China alone, without a group of tourists? - an employee of the Khabarovsk travel agency looked at me with undisguised horror. - You will get lost there, if only because you do not know the language!" "I assure you, everything will be fine, just help me get my visa!" - I insisted.

The desire to see the Celestial Empire was so strong that the instinct of self-preservation was dulled, and the inner voice persuaded to fly, because "there are so many interesting things!" At the same time, I wanted to move around the country on my own, without the standard tourist "look left, look right". It turned out that this is not difficult at all. Moreover, in my opinion, this is the most correct way to see the country in all its diversity. Of course, it would be nice to have acquaintances in China - this is how the most difficult issue is automatically solved - with the language. In addition, knowledge of local flavor and advice from "insiders" can significantly reduce not only your transportation costs, but also insure against monetary losses, and in some cases save your stomach.

To the language barrier!

Before traveling, one should be aware that in China everyone speaks only Chinese. English is spoken very little, mainly in large cities like Beijing, Shanghai or Hong Kong. At first, of course, it's difficult to get used to: all signs, announcements, schedules and menus consist of hieroglyphs that are rarely duplicated in English. At first, a phrasebook saved me, in which there was not only the transcription of Chinese words, but also their spelling. After long trainings, of course, I learned how to pronounce the basic expressions like "hello" and "how much" correctly, but I realized for myself that it is better to show more complex phrases by pointing my finger at a book. The fact is that there are so many dialects in Chinese that a Chinese from the north would never understand a southerner, and vice versa. For example, "forty-four" in Severian is "si shi si", and the inhabitants of the south say "si si si" - roughly like "shorok four". The Mandarin language is considered the official language - in translation "common language". The government is making many efforts to train its citizens to speak in the same way. You turn on some radio, and there, instead of music, all the way is talking in Mandarin.

Where and how to go

South China is good at any time of the year. It is better not to go to the north in winter - the weather practically does not differ from our Central Siberian. When choosing a route, you need to take into account your financial capabilities and the duration of the visa. For those who want to start their journey from Beijing, it makes sense to take a direct flight ticket (about five hundred and fifty dollars round trip), and from there travel around the country by train. If you are limited in time, then you can fly from city to city and by plane - fortunately, in China they are affordable. I will tell you more about the railway connection. Tickets for any direction can be bought only at the railway station ticket offices. The only problem is explaining which ticket and where you need it. Moreover, it is advisable to do this in Chinese, since even if there is a window at the station with a sign "Foreigners", it is not a fact that the cashier girl speaks English.

You need to arrive at the station 20-30 minutes before the train leaves - this way you will pass control relatively calmly. The train will set off minute by minute, and if you get into a "traffic jam" of the Chinese who want to leave with you, you are lost.

There are several classes of Chinese cars:

The cheapest - no seats. In them, passengers are standing or lying on the floor - on newspapers, on anything; Sedentary. It is better not to take risks if you go far, and your back is naughty; Hard slippers, reminiscent of our reserved seats, only shelves in three tiers, the bed is already made, and there are no side seats; The compartments, which are similar to the Russian ones, only the cars are much cleaner, the beds are ruffled, and there are carpets on the floor. Each train has a dining car - after all, the Chinese are constantly eating something. On all trains, washstands are located in plain sight, separate from the toilet, and thus the morning queue for the closet is a rare occurrence. But you can, for example, enjoy the spectacle of the morning rinsing of the false jaw, which an unfamiliar Chinese grandmother does with great care.

I traveled from Beijing to Jinan in a hard slipper (about 6 hours), and the ticket cost me 73 yuan - about 200 rubles in our money. The price of a ticket from Beijing to Shanghai (overnight on the road) is 250 yuan, that is, about 685 rubles. Inexpensive, but I, for example, had a hard time getting used to Chinese trains. Basically, because passengers are constantly smoking, eating noodles "Doshirak", talking loudly and without hesitation - both men and women - walk around the car in underpants.

Where to live and what to take with you

A room with breakfast in a four-star hotel in the center of Harbin cost me 300 yuan per day (eight hundred and twenty rubles). The hotel was not bad, but only Chinese lived in it, and the staff did not understand a word of English. Attempts to ask where they have a gym looked like helpless waving hands - with the purpose of gestures to show the "simulator", and requests to wake up at a certain time caused confusion at the receptionist.

Hostels - youth hostels can become a more economical accommodation option for young people. One bed in a double room at the International Youth Hostel, which is located right next to the central station in Beijing, can cost 70 yuan (200 rubles) per day. Everything you need for life is available: shower, 24-hour bar and Internet cafe. By the way, you can save even more if you stay in the "dorm" - a room with 3-12 beds and amenities in the corridor. Depending on the city, such accommodation costs 20-60 yuan (55-175 rubles) per night.

To this standard set of hotel search tools I will add one more - touts - an option to settle in a private apartment. People offering "cheap apartments in the center of Beijing" crowd at train stations and ask for very little money. I myself have not tried it, but knowledgeable travelers assure that they should not be afraid - here, unlike, for example, India, there is no danger that there will be any problems with these apartments.

On a trip, I advise you to take a comfortable backpack, good sports shoes - for long walks, a thermos (boiling water is available everywhere and free of charge) and more of some small souvenirs such as nesting dolls - the Chinese love to receive gifts and can even help you somehow as gratitude.

What to watch in China

Of all the cities, of course, Beijing is the most impressive. Or, as foreigners call him, Beijin. After I have visited it, it is easy to understand Quentin Tarantino, who came here to shoot his film "Kill Bill", and could not leave. I bought an apartment in Beijing and, according to rumors, eventually plans to move to the Middle Kingdom altogether. The city shocked me with its monumentality. I expected to see crowds of Chinese people rushing somewhere with crazy eyes, crowding in the streets, traffic jams. But none of this happened. The stream of people moved smoothly and without hysterical hustle and bustle, as in Moscow.

In architecture, two main directions are combined here: east and west. The first is represented by pagodas, with easily recognizable, upturned roofs and obligatory dragons as a design element. The second is with skyscrapers, which do not block the space here at all.

Everyone who comes to Beijing for the first time begins to explore the city from the famous Tiananmen - the Square of Heavenly Peace. It is the largest in the world, accommodating one million people! It is always crowded here - not only because of foreign tourists, but also because of the Chinese, residents of distant provinces, who come to be sure to take pictures at the Mao Zedong mausoleum. Both adults and children fly kites on the square. You can also buy your own snake - in the shape of a shark, butterfly or other monster.

On the square, I noticed a small child - 3-4 years old, who had a hole in the back of his pants and his bare butt was blown by the wind. I thought it was my parents' oversight. But then I saw several more babies with the same strange cut of panties. It turned out that the thrifty Chinese don't like to spend money on diapers. The child wanted to use the toilet, sat down - and you're done!

In the mornings, at about six o'clock, the Chinese go out to the square and do group taijiquan - melancholic exercises, the meaning of which consists in sluggish hand passes and careful steps from side to side.

Not far from Mao's mausoleum is the entrance to the Forbidden City - a huge complex of palace buildings where the great emperors of the Qing and Ming dynasties lived. Hundreds of pagodas, thousands of courtyards - the spectacle is striking in its scale. Previously, mere mortals were forbidden to enter here, but now they can - for only 10 yuan (27 rubles).

Leaving the Forbidden City, you find yourself in the wonderful Beihai Park (North Sea Park), where the crowned persons rested, apparently indulging in thoughts of the fatherland. Needless to say - the Chinese know a lot about landscape architecture. Half of the area is occupied by a lake, around which weeping willows grow of crazy beauty. This park is adored by couples and calligraphers. The first - because it is allowed to kiss calmly on the benches, the second - because you can draw hieroglyphs with water right on the asphalt.

From the park you can walk to the famous Temple of Heaven. This is now China, probably the most unbelieving country in the world (ninety-five percent are atheists). And earlier they believed in Heaven and other deities. The road to the temple is already a test. For about half an hour you have to walk along a narrow stone path. It was very instructive when, at the last stage of the ascent, a dry Chinese old woman, who was panting and wheezing, overtook me, overcame the path easily and naturally.

There is a Whisper Wall on the territory of the temple. It is semicircular in shape, and this allows you to hear the interlocutor, even if he is standing a hundred meters from you and muttering something under his breath. The Chinese love to have fun, standing for hours at the wall at a distance from each other and talking.

Fewer discoveries awaited me in Shanghai. Maybe because it is very modern, or maybe because I did not stay there for long. As soon as this city was not called at different times: both the "Paris of the East" and the "Chinese Whore" ... It is a city of adventurers, gamblers, sailors, opium dealers and opium addicts, a city of child prostitution and slave child labor, a city of socialists, communists and revolutionaries , home of the Chinese Communist Party, cradle of the Revolution and home of the Shanghai Commune. It is home to 6.5 million people - one of the highest in the world. There are a lot of skyscrapers here. And they, unlike the Peking ones, press. Fashionable buildings easily coexist with old buildings, from which ropes with linen strung on them stretch in all directions. Here it is not at all shameful to hang out old faded panties and leggings for everyone.

In the center of the city there is a wide asphalted space of the People's Square. Processions and demonstrations were held here. In 1969, 2.5 million people gathered in the square to protest against the Soviet Union. And now the walkers are peacefully feeding the pigeons.

On the streets you can see both young yuppies and informals. During the walk I met real Chinese punks. They had a rather wasted look despite their traditional hedgehog hair, studded jackets, grinders and guitars on the back. Themselves - skinny and unkempt. When they tried to play some of the Sex Pistols in front of a department store, I felt like going over and feeding them a hot lunch.

Walking in Shanghai is a must. Better - along Nanjing Lu, the main street. Bright shop windows, neon signs everywhere. And shops, shops, shops. Nanjing Lu leads to the embankment of the Huangpu River. Once in colonial times, there was a famous sign at the entrance: "Dogs and Chinese are not allowed in." Today, crowds of Chinese and foreigners roam here, admiring the view of the night Banda.

Rotten eggs and duck skins

It is often joked about the Chinese that they consume everything that flies except for airplanes, everything that moves on land except for a tractor, and everything that floats in the water, except for a submarine.

Chinese chefs adhere to the principles of culinary art that developed five thousand years ago. They love unexpected food combinations: meat with sugar and fruit, seaweed with nuts, flower petals with hot peppers, hedgehogs with spices. In order to cook the broth, for example, they can take beef, poultry and fish at the same time.

There are about 14 culinary schools in China, the most famous of which are Shandong, Sichuan, Jiangsu Zhejiang, Peking and Guangdong. The latter is the most "extreme". It uses snakes, field mice, wild cats, dogs, seals, crocodiles, bear paws, monkey brains, bird tongues. The technology of some dishes is simply savage. When preparing the "Kunming Lake Fried Carp" dish, scraping the scales, cutting, toasting and serving takes only four minutes. When the fish is served, it still opens its mouth and the gills move for thirty minutes. This agony continues even when the fish is eaten to the bone. The secret of such vitality is that the fish's head is not fried and the central nervous system is preserved. In general, Greenpeace is resting.

"Queen of the Chinese table" - Peking duck. Instead of duck, however, they bring duck skins, which makes tourists very surprised. But if you come to a fish restaurant, it's hard to make a mistake: everything floats in aquariums. You come up, choose - and in ten minutes they bring you a dish. True, it was difficult for me to come to terms with the fact that the selected fish was being killed with a shoe in front of my eyes, causing its insides to fly all over the restaurant.

The Chinese also love rotten duck eggs. To prepare such an egg, it must be kept in lime for 30 days! Its yolk is black and has an indescribable taste. The protein is like rubber, almost transparent in appearance.

In a restaurant of an average level and below, the Chinese "average level and below" behave completely, from a European point of view, like a pig: blow their nose and spit right on the floor, throw napkins, bones and leftovers there, yell at the whole room, especially when drink. By the way, they also expectorate on the streets - loudly, wiping their nose and mouth with their hand. Even women.

The Chinese love to put food on each other's plate. And when the bill is brought in, a serious dispute flares up between them: who will pay. Everyone strives to do this for everyone in order to prove their privileged position. Our compatriots are happy to go to restaurants with the Chinese ...

Observing behavior

The Chinese are very loud people. Their guttural voices are one of a kind. An anecdotal incident occurred once in the United States. Two people from Guangdong province were having a peaceful conversation, but the Americans passing by thought that they were about to undress and called the police. The police demanded an explanation, but two interlocutors replied that they spoke in a "whisper."

Why are they screaming? The Chinese believes that the stronger and higher his voice, the more convincing his arguments look.

In a country of nearly 1.3 billion people, more than a quarter of the population regularly plays sports. All educational institutions, enterprises and institutions, villages, subdivisions of the People's Liberation Army of China, the elderly and the disabled are covered by mass physical education. The Chinese habit of doing group exercises is known throughout the world. Moreover, they do it at different times of the day. Many practice in groups and to music, but there are also individuals. There are athletes with sticks. They wave them like Shaolin monks right in the streets.

It is very common to see people walking backwards. This is probably an exercise for the development of the vestibular apparatus. In every city there are courtyards equipped with shaping equipment, available to everyone, and free of charge. The old men famously throw their feet on the tall railings, and sometimes sit on the twine. And because millions of Chinese people pedal their bicycles every day on the way to and from work, their legs are pumped up.

Amid the craze for sports, the Chinese smoke and drink a lot. Vodka and cigarettes are sold everywhere, although the quality is terrible. There are 320 million smokers in China, of which twenty million are women. Hence the large number of "nicotine deaths". But no one indulges in addiction on the streets - the Chinese prefer to do it in a relaxed atmosphere: in a restaurant or bar.

Overall, I am happy with my trip. Maybe I saw this country not from the most romantic and glossy side, but, in any case, the trip left a lot of impressions and memories.

Yes. I agree with the previous comment that Beijing has long faded before Shanghai and Hong Kong, and reminds Moscow of the 80s, where the author saw so many unusual things, it’s incomprehensible, for me, Beijing is always the other way around only a transshipment base, other Chinese cities are much more interesting, in this case I don’t have I mean cultural monuments, of which there are many in Beijing.
25.07.11 Natalia


indeed, the commentary is very detailed. but it seems that the author visited China 10 years ago (the description of Shanghai is exactly 10 years ago, the spirit of communism does not hover there, unambiguously). although, perhaps, if you ride around the country in a reserved seat carriage, it will not seem that way.
05.06.10 Olga


Good afternoon, thank you very much for such a detailed comment. I myself plan to go without a guide, and it was important for me to understand how much of this is possible and your feedback was more than decisive in favor of a trip without a guide, thanks again!
01.03.10 Yana

Despite the fact that China is becoming more and more popular with tourists from all over the world every year, reviews on the Internet of our compatriots about trips to China are, to put it mildly, ambiguous, so let's talk about those features of the country that may be unacceptable for some travelers.

1. If your passport is valid for less than 6 months from the end of the planned tour, choose another country

All documentary formalities are strictly observed at the Chinese consulate, therefore, in order to avoid problems with obtaining a visa and disrupting the trip, it is better not to risk it and take care of a new passport in advance.

2. If you are not ready for the additional hassle associated with obtaining a Chinese visa

There is nothing fundamentally difficult in preparing documents for obtaining a Chinese visa - no extra certificates are required, only a passport, an application form, copies of a Russian passport, a photograph and an invitation from the Chinese side. Consular fee for a tourist trip - 1500 rubles. Moreover, if you are planning to have a rest in Hainan, then when you are taking a direct flight from Moscow, you do not need a visa at all!

Mountain lake in China

3. If in principle you fly only on charter flights, then - alas!

You can get to China only by regular flights of Hainan Airlines, Aeroflot and others. Airplanes fly from St. Petersburg to Beijing on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Accordingly, the duration of the trip should be "adjusted" to the airline's schedule. Flight time is about 7 hours.

China

4. If, when traveling by train, you are accustomed to redeem the entire compartment in order to feel comfortable, then in China you will have to fly by air

In China, it is impossible to redeem a compartment in whole or in part, that is, if the program of an excursion tour includes train journeys between cities, then you will have to share a four-seater compartment either with tourists from your group or with the Chinese. There are no two-seater coupes. As a rule, transfers between cities are nighttime and last about 12 hours, for example, between Beijing and Xi'an.


One of the entrances to the Forbidden City

If this question is of fundamental importance to you, the option of moving on domestic flights remains. By the way, China has very developed air traffic and a fairly high level of flight safety. Carry-on baggage regulations are even stricter than those around the world.


China

5. If you are intolerant of tobacco smoke, choose another country or stock up on a respirator

The Chinese smoke a lot. Accordingly, almost everywhere it smells of tobacco, in hotels you come across smoky rooms, in hotel lobbies, guests also smoke. It is forbidden to smoke in the train compartment, in restaurants you can choose a non-smoking room.


Chinese hinterland

6. If you are on a special diet or very selective in food, take your favorite (preferred) foods with you

A lot has been written and told that Chinese cuisine is very peculiar, but how much it suits you personally, you will only understand, so to speak, "on the spot." Someone lacks meat - indeed, the basis of the Chinese diet is stewed, boiled, stewed vegetables, noodles and rice. Someone does not tolerate spicy and salty. If in Beijing, Shanghai and other large cities it is still possible to find food adapted for a European, then in the provinces there will be a problem with this. You will find the cutlery we are accustomed to only in large cities; in the outback, you will have to eat with chopsticks. Of course, there are places in China, chosen by the British and Americans, where the cuisine and other amenities are at the highest level, for example, the panda nature reserve, but this is rather an exception.


Giant Buddha statue, Leshan

7. If you have experienced culture shock when visiting public toilets in the former Soviet Union (or modern India) and do not want to see them again, then choose another country to travel

All public toilets in China are free. Tourists who find Soviet "conveniences", seeing Chinese ones, think "scoop." Indeed, very similar: two soles and a metal bowl at floor level, no toilet paper and a corresponding smell. So for those tourists who still go to China, advice - take toilet paper and wet wipes with you.

8. If you prefer silence and solitude, and your personal psychologically comfortable space is one and a half meters - choose another country

There are many people in China. Not even that - there are A LOT OF PEOPLE in China! This fact actually entails a lot of the most diverse consequences, namely: everyone constantly bumps each other with their elbows and other parts of the body, speaks quite loudly, therefore it is very noisy, examines with sincere, but completely unceremonious curiosity, everything interesting and unusual, for example, you


Against the background of the Great Wall of China

9. If the budget of your trip involves an amount of less than 50 thousand rubles per person, then you need to choose another country or take out a loan

The most budget option for exploring China is a week-long tour to Beijing. Today it costs from 50 thousand rubles per person. If, within a week's stay, you want to see also Xi'an (terracotta army) and Shanghai, count on the amount of at least 70 thousand rubles per person. In order not only to see the main cities, but also to relax for a week on the island of Hainan, budget from 100 thousand per person. Treatment in China is very popular among the stars of domestic and international show business - both in the central part and on the island of Hainan.


In order to feel comfortable when planning a tour and directly on a trip, you can use the installment payment service, which, for example, our company offers for up to 7 months at 0% per annum.


Rice Field Village, China

10. If your vacation falls during the Republic of China Day or Chinese New Year, travel to another country.

There are two great holidays in China - the day of the founding of the People's Republic of China and the Chinese New Year. During these periods - from 28.09 to 04.10 and the last decade of February-early March (celebrated according to the lunar calendar, so there are no exact dates) - there are official public holidays in China, and all Chinese begin to travel en masse within the country. Hotel prices are tripled, and crowds begin at tourist sites. So it's better to plan your trip for other dates. The ideal time, especially for combo tours, is spring and autumn, when it is warm on the mainland and not very hot on Hainan Island.


Among other tourists, China

In conclusion, I want to say: I am sure that a trip to China will not leave anyone indifferent. Our tourists return from this multifaceted country with consistently positive impressions.


Panda

If you have any questions, please write: [email protected]

I will tell you separately about our railway experience and how we got food on this trip. We made all our movements between cities in China by train.

These were our food requirements. It's good when the cafe has a menu with pictures. In general, I also like dishes with sweet sauce, although I cannot eat many of them. But Lena did not like them.

In general, the Chinese have a special love for sweets - it is almost impossible to even find non-sweet bread. We didn't find bread there at all.

All the sausages that we tried to taste, although outwardly and were similar to ours, but the taste was disgustingly sweet.

The potatoes are all sweet there too.

By the way, we liked the Chinese beer.

As a result, we have developed our own set of requirements for dishes:

  • 不 辣 - búlà - not spicy,
  • 不 甜 - bùtián or 不 加糖 - bùjiātáng - not sweet,
  • 没有 豆腐 - méiyǒudòufu - no tofu.

Sometimes we also need to say that the dish should be packed with us. We just showed this phrase written in Chinese. It's time for us to learn it already:

请 把这 到 菜 给 我 包 - Qǐng bǎ zhèdàocài gěi wǒ bāo.

Maybe it will come in handy on your journey.

Once we tried to order a baozi. The menu was without pictures. We saw the familiar hieroglyph 鸡 - Jī - chicken. We were delighted - we decided to order baozi stuffed with chicken. They were delicious, but we didn't find chicken there. There was 鸡蛋 - Jīdàn - an egg. We knew how this word sounds, but did not remember how it is spelled.

A good review of Chinese food was written by the owner of the blog Way2China Anna in the article What and how the Chinese eat.

I made it 65 minutes before departure. I vowed to drive up to the departure train end-to-end in time.

LESSON

  • Before large crossings, flights, leave a day in the city of departure - there is always where to walk there, and you will definitely not be late for the plane.