Fes where. All about holidays in fes, morocco

) and the largest center of Islamic religion and culture in all of North Africa. Its area is 20 thousand square meters. km. The origins of the founding of the city go back to about 789 AD, when the first settlement was founded on east coast Fes River, after which a village appeared on the other side. And when the two settlements merged into one, the city of Fes turned into the largest Islamic city in the world and became a worthy beauty capital of Morocco. When you come here, you get the impression that you are stepping into the past: for one and a half thousand years, the city has changed little in its structure. There are still many tangled winding streets, old houses and buildings where people continue to live.

You should not think that there is nothing here except markets, on the contrary, there are decent modern shopping areas in Fes, where almost everything is sold, but the atmosphere of Morocco is absent there. There is no general usual schedule of shops here, each has its own schedule. But markets and bazaars open from early morning and work all daylight hours.

How to get to Fes?

The city of Fes has international Airport, but there are no direct flights here from Russia and the CIS countries. You can fly directly from Paris, Milan, Madrid, Pisa, London, Bologna, Marseille, Düsseldorf and Frankfurt. You can fly to the Moroccan city or the capital of Rabat, and from there you can take the train to Fes. From the local airport to the city every half an hour go Shuttle Buses, a short drive: the distance is only 15 km. You can try to drive to the city on your own, but a taxi will cost you 6-10 times more than a bus ticket.

Transport in Fes

You should immediately remember that the usual clear movement public transport there is no. Yes, city buses run on their own routes, but there is no classic timetable at the stops, you can occasionally find old signs. You will learn much more information about the route and waiting time for the nearest bus from local residents. And yet, a decent part of the stops is missing at all, the place of the stop can only be recognized by the crowd of people on the side of the road.

Local taxis exist, but the cars are so small that they can only accommodate three people. We recommend that you agree on a price in advance, since there is no general tariff here, and taxi drivers like to carry wealthy tourists in circles. In Fes, there is the concept of a “big” taxi - this is a kind of small shuttle bus. Habitual taxis with meters are found, but with the frequency of an endangered species.

A trip to Morocco is an old dream. Thoughts about this country like bright kaleidoscope patterns swirled in my head. The imagination was drawing a picture very obsessively perfect trip. And, apparently, I really wanted to get here so much that Dima was also taken up by a brilliant idea.

It is better to look for flights to Fes on Aviasales. He checks dozens of agencies and finds the best prices. Checked!

What is remarkable about Fes

Fez is divided into two parts: the new quarters and the old medina. The last one is his calling card. Medina of Fes is...

time jump thousands of years ago
one of the largest pedestrian areas in the world,
riot of colors and smells,
and, of course, an endless series of markets.

Medina consists of 9,500 narrow streets, which are so intertwined with each other that even the locals get lost in them. This part of the city is completely pedestrian, a car simply cannot pass here, so donkeys are the main mode of transport. They are here instead of trucks, garbage trucks and taxis.

It would seem, well, the door and the door, what is it? But one curious fact surprised me. Two families live behind this door, and if you look closely, you can see two door knockers (knocker). Each family has its own, they distinguish who they came to by the characteristic sound. This is not just a metal ringing, but a unique sound that is not like the neighbor's. And these are almost all the doors in the medina.

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Accommodation in Fes

Morocco is not an expensive country, in Fez you can find accommodation for every taste, color and budget. There are plenty of offers, ranging from budget guesthouses to luxurious riads. Our trip was held under the motto: "Give exotic", so the hotel was chosen purely in the Moroccan style.

Products in production are more expensive than in the same markets. We bought a small carnival for 20 euros. But the quality of the dishes here is better.

Address: Art Naji, 20, Fez

Opening hours: 8:00 - 18:00, seven days a week

Fes Markets

Markets are my weakness. I have written more than once how I like it, in Fes everything is much bigger. You can spend hours wandering through the market labyrinths. Here, the malls are full of bright colors of original goods: leather goods, ceramic dishes, fabrics of all colors of the rainbow, silver jewelry, vegetables, fruits, spices, meat rows - this is only a small part of what the trading part of the medina can offer. In the markets, the cost is an order of magnitude lower than in the production itself, and if you bargain well, the high price will melt like ice cream in the sun.

Excursions

Two full days in Fes will be enough to see all the key places in the city. We were four and the last two days we missed walking along the already familiar streets. You can see the sights of Fes on your own, but we decided to take a guide. The main reason is the labyrinths of the medina, you can get lost in the narrow streets in no time. Secondly, no guidebook will introduce you to the city the way a local resident does.

The guide found us himself. Walking around the medina, a young guy offered his services, and for quite ridiculous money (by European standards). Our 5-hour tour cost 20 euros for two adults, that is, 10 euros per person. We were 100% satisfied with the tour, listened to the guide with an open mouth. He showed us all the most interesting things in the city and paid attention to the smallest details that we would never have noticed on our own.

Finding a guide is not difficult; near the Bab-Bou-Jelud gate, guides offer their services. These tours are available in English, French and Spanish.

But there is one caveat - in the places where the guide will take you, the cost of goods / souvenirs is greatly overestimated. Most likely the guides receive% of the tourists brought. My advice to you: go, look, ask the price, but do not buy anything. With a probability of 99%, you will buy the same goods on the market on your own much cheaper. We believed ours and overpaid a lot.

Transport

Outside the medina, Fez is swarming with red cars - this is a local taxi. The fare in the city is 10-20 dirhams / 0.9-1.8 euros, depending on the distance. In 95% of cases, we did not have to bargain, the driver immediately called the regular fare. Perhaps somewhere they made a fool of 5 dirhams, but these are trifles, there was no outright arrogance. You can also find white taxis. Such cars travel long distances, to the airport, for example. To carry tourists around the city from point A to point B, white taxis are not allowed.

Our impressions

According to my feelings, the city of Fes is a mixture of Georgia and India, that's true! Here and inherent in Georgia. Everything here is so unusual and unusual, but at the same time there is a feeling that you are welcome here. Wherever you look, something interesting happens: bread is baked, carpets are sewn, doors, fabrics, jewelry are made, leather is dyed and much, much more. For me, Fez is a treasure chest. Every street, every door, every window keeps its secret. Just take a look and everything will sparkle with new colors.

At the same time, Fez is not yet badly spoiled by tourists. Here the word "no" is understood the first time and very unobtrusively offer their goods and services. I liked Fes and I would like to come back here!

Africa - Morocco Fez day one.

City of contradictions, "you say you're going to Fez, but I know you're not going to Fez...". is an old proverb.

Video about traveling to Morocco city Fes - day 1

Photo report about the trip to Fes

Fes Old city

Road to Morocco

And so I am again in Africa and this is the first day of my next trip to this continent, but I did not manage to get to Africa without adventures. Namely, about 3-4 months before the trip, I bought a ticket from Moscow to Fes at a very attractive price of about 150 dollars. We bought a ticket and was satisfied and did not attach importance to the nuances. I thought about these nuances 2-3 days before departure. The nuances of such a flight Moscow Fez passes with a change in Barcelona.
You arrive in Barcelona at terminal 1 and depart from terminal 2. For example, if you arrive at Paris Charles de Gaulle airport, there may be the same situation when you arrive at one terminal and depart from another, but there are no problems with this. In this case, 2-3 days before departure, something clicked in me and I decided to check this situation more precisely. I began to look at Russian-language sites that said that a free bus runs from one terminal to another, which will take you to another terminal in 10 minutes. On some sites it was even written that the move is carried out through closed communications. But again, I had doubts and I began to ask questions on the tourist forums on this route. And on one of the forums, one traveler answered me that he flew a similar route twice and both times he went beyond transit zone to take a bus that takes you to another terminal. It turned out that in this situation a Schengen visa was required, which was not realistic for me to get in 2 days.
When I saw that such a situation was developing, I wrote a letter to the Barcelona airport from which I received an answer that I need to find out this situation at the Spanish Embassy. Having added all the terms, I decided to go on an adventure. But first I printed boarding pass flight from Barcelona to Fez, this ticket played a very important role.
The adventure was as follows, I arrive in Barcelona, show the boarding pass, I say that I wrote you a letter to which I did not receive a clear answer. I called the embassy and they told me that the airport staff would help me. As a result, I had to convince the employees that I did everything that depended on me and they should take me through runway to another terminal.
In the end, I arrive in Barcelona at Terminal 1, go to passport control, the employee is looking for a visa, and I tell her that there is no visa. She looks at me with wide eyes. Then I explain the situation to her and show the boarding pass, saying that I have everything for the flight and I am ready to fly.
Then he takes my Moscow-Barcelona ticket, a boarding pass for the Barcelona-Fes flight. There were 4 people who began to discuss what to do in this situation. In the end, an employee of the airport came, who led me through the service passages to the bus, and this bus took me alone to terminal 2. It turned out such an adventure, perhaps it will serve for someone to draw certain conclusions when compiling such routes.
What else I wanted to add, having gone on this adventure, I walked after thinking over the ways of retreat. That is, if the airport staff did not transfer me to the desired terminal, then I would have bought a ticket to Morocco via the Internet with a departure from terminal 1. Of course, in this case, I would have lost about $ 180 and 10 hours of time, but for me everything ended successfully.

How to get to Fes from the Airport

From the airport da Fez can be reached at least 2 ways by taxi for 120 dirhams = 12$ and by bus for 20 dirhams = 2$
Actually I got even cheaper, apparently, just got on another bus, the stop of which was near the airport. The fare was 4 dirhams 1 dollar is approximately equal to 10 dirhams. The bus took me to the station, where I took a taxi to get to Medina, where I had booked a hotel. Taxi drivers can pick up more passengers along the way. This is not the first country in which I encounter such a phenomenon.

Fes prices

Hotel prices
For 15-20 euros per night, you can rent a good room in a hostel.

Food prices
Tajine costs about 25 to 40 dirhams, which is 2.5-4 dollars, you can completely fill up with this dish.
Shawarma - 15 dirhams. For a day, 10-20 dollars will be enough if you do not visit expensive restaurants.

Fares
City bus 4 dirhams. Taxis average 20 dirhams.

As soon as I came to the old city, a bunch of helpers immediately appeared. But everything around is colorful and interesting.

Old city

Looking ahead, I will say that in Morocco, the population that comes into contact with tourists is aimed by all means to lure money from them. While I was walking to my hotel, the so-called assistant stuck to me, to whom I immediately said that I did not need his help, and I could find my hotel using GPS. By the way, small hotels in Medina are not easy to find. In fact, these hotels are the home of a person who wants to earn extra money. Well, going along the GPS, I saw that I had passed the lane I needed and turned around to return, and right there, above the turn into the lane, I saw a small sign with the name of the hotel I needed. This guy also saw her and shouted that this is my hotel and that he found it for me. I waved him off and went to the hotel, when the door was opened for me, he also followed me, asking for money. I specifically told him that he would not receive anything from me, after which the employee at the hotel kicked him out.

But this story did not end there. After a while the owner of the hotel came. I was treated to tea, I paid for the accommodation and then again there was a knock on the door. The owner went to open it and he hears me testament. I approached, and there again that type, demands that I pay him. I answered him again that there was nothing to pay him for and he would not receive anything from me, and if he annoys me, then I will now turn on the video camera and the entire Internet in live see him begging. After that, he changed dramatically in his face and with in English switched to Arabic. He made several suggestions to the hotel owner, after which, surprisingly, the hotel owner gave him 10 dirhams, after which he left. It turns out this type still got his way, he got his dollar.

National cuisine of Morocco

After I checked in, I went to a restaurant for lunch. Usually during their travels in different countries of the world, I try the national cuisine of the country in which I am. So this time, I decided to order myself a tajine. Tajine is a dish that is cooked in a dish, also called tajine, which looks like a plate or pan with a cone-shaped lid. Due to such a lid, steam is prevented from passing through and the smell from the cooking dish is prevented. In fact, almost anything is cooked in tajine meat, chicken, vegetables, fruits. In this case, they brought me beef with spices and an egg in a special sauce. In this case, I did not really like the spicy sweet and sour dish. Although other variations of tajine that I tried later I liked. The average cost of a tajine is 40 dirhams, which is about 4 dollars. Even in Fes, you can try pigeon pies, it is unlikely that this can be attributed to the national cuisine, but such a dish is present. I didn't manage to try it because I found out about it later, although I saw cages with pigeons near small cafes.

Tajine national dish

Meeting with my African fellow travelers

Now, according to the plan, I was to meet two women with whom, at a travel forum, I and two of my comrades agreed to make a trip. Evening came, I was in the hotel and waited for them to arrive, although they should have arrived as early as 2 hours ago. It started to rain, but they weren’t there, and I already began to worry if everything was in order. After some time, I heard Russian speech, left the room and saw Olga, one of those with whom I was supposed to meet, the second one, too, Olga, it turns out, was lost.
It so happened that when they drove up to the Medina, one had to find a hotel and then they had to meet at the agreed place. But for some reason, they failed to meet in this agreed place. We went with the owner of the hotel to look for the second Olga in the rain. Again they came to the agreed place and went around all the lanes that were nearby, but to no avail.
I want to note that looking for a person in Medina is not a thankful task, and without a local, you can walk 50 meters from him and not find him. We returned to the hotel, the rain only intensified and turned into a downpour. And then, quite spontaneously, I decided to ask Olga if her friend had a phone, it turned out that she did. And it happened quite spontaneously, so I still had roaming connected. We got through to Olga, her mood, of course, was panicky, and this was understandable. Night, Africa, downpour, some kind of fortress wall in front of her, some dubious types walk nearby, either homeless people or drug addicts, and she shouts to us, find me quickly.
Based on the description that she said on the phone, we have already examined all these places. Then I asked her to find a decent-looking person to whom I could give the phone and that he would explain to the owner of the hotel where to look for her. She gave the phone to the taxi driver and after 10 minutes we found her.
We go with her to the hotel at night in the rain and she tells me. Damn, my friends told me where you were going, what a nafik Africa, that Greece and Thailand are not enough for you, if you want to go to Africa, fly to Tunisia to sunbathe. And then this happens to me on the very first day, I stand at night in the rain in all this horror and remember their words.
Then I tried to explain to her that anything can happen during travel and you need to be prepared for this and perceive such things as an adventure. And after a while you will generally remember this incident with humor. At that time, my words did not make the proper impression. But they had the right effect when after 30 minutes we were sitting in the hotel and drinking good alcohol bought in duty free. Thus passed my first day of travel to Africa.

Africa - Morocco Fez day two

Sightseeing Fes - Bab Bou Jeloud Gate, 14th century Bou Inania Madrasah, Medina, Tanners' Quarter.

Africa trip - Video of the second day in Fez

It was decided to dedicate the second day of his stay in Fez to exploring its sights, since time was limited, only the old city was taken into account.

Fes old town

Attractions Fes

– former capital Morocco, one of oldest cities country, as well as its spiritual center. The city is considered a contradiction, And the most ... different from other cities in Morocco.
There are several main attractions in Fes - these are Royal Palace , the entrance to which is prohibited, so visiting this place is doubtful. Tanner's Quarter, from which, however, today almost nothing remains. What's left of him you can see in the video. Madrasah of the 14th century Bu-Inaniya. And of course, with its narrow streets and unique color. Medina will be especially interesting for people who are in such a place for the first time.

Gate Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate) they are also the entrance to Medina. The gate was built by the French in 1913, people come here tourist buses and travelers love to be photographed against the background of these gates. The gates are considered the most memorable in the entire Fess medina. The nearby 12th-century original is less popular with tourists.

Bab Bou Jeloud Gate (Blue Gate)

14th century Bu Inania Madrasah

Madrassah of the 14th century Bu-Inania is one of the outstanding examples of world architecture. This is the only school in the city that has its own minaret. Today, the Bou Inania Madrasah is a pearl, a precious masterpiece, testifying to the wealth of the ancient imperial city of Fes. This is one of the few madrasahs in Morocco that non-Christians can enter.

Medina of Fes

The medina in Fez is divided into artisan quarters. One of the main attractions of the Medina was considered the quarter of tanners, where animal skins were processed. Due to the specifics of leather processing, there was an unbearable smell in the quarter. In order to make it easier to be in such a place, sprigs of mint were given out. Today, almost nothing remains of the place of leather dressing, now either a hotel or a restaurant is being built in this place. Getting ahead of myself, I will say I visited leather processing places in Marrakesh. I can note that the place is very colorful, largely due to the smell distributed in the places where the leather is processed.
And of course the Medina itself is a landmark. Here you just need to walk around, look, buy something, communicate with people in order to feel the essence of this place. But the Medina is arranged, so it’s very easy to get lost here, and even GPS will be a weak helper here, since many streets are simply not marked on the map. In this case, for a fee, assistants will help you find the way, who will periodically approach you or use navigators to go outside the Medina, take a taxi and get to the right place.

Medina of Fes

Fes findings

Fes is definitely an interesting and original city. Medina of Fes is probably the most authentic in all of Morocco. The only thing that spoils the impression is the annoying assistants, but in Marrakech they are still more impudent, so you just have to accept it and stick to your line of behavior. It was disappointing that the leather workshops were destroyed. Now they are building a hotel or a restaurant there.

How many days to allocate to Fes: 2-3 days is enough for Fes as one of the travel points.

In conclusion, I propose once again to make a video tour of Fes

The rich history of Fes, ancient capital Morocco endowed it with two "old cities" at once - medinas. The royal palace, the Jewish cemetery and the Buzhelud gardens are Fes el-Jdid. The most confused medina in the world is Fes el Bali, where there are 14 gates, 6000 streets, 200 mosques and 180 hammams.

Fes is not only the oldest of the four imperial cities and the fourth largest city in Morocco. It is also a monument to three eras at once, reflected primarily in the architectural appearance of the ancient city. Like many ancient capitals, Fez is located quite far from the coastline, so the best time to relax there is April-May or October-November, when it’s not very hot and you can walk around the city to your heart’s content.

Throughout the vast territory of the Fess medina, it is forbidden to travel by motorized means. The future belongs to donkeys, porters and cyclists!

How to get there

Among the airlines that offer flights to Fes, there is not a single Russian one, so you will have to fly with a transfer. Flights from London, Paris, Girona, Madrid, Seville, Alicante, Frankfurt, Dusseldorf, Milan, Pisa, Bologna and Marseille fly to Fes-Saiss Airport.

If you are planning to visit more than one city in Morocco, then it is better to fly to Casablanca or Rabat, and from there take a train to Fez (a train ticket will cost you 90-180 MAD).

If you arrive at Fes airport, it will be useful to know how to get to the city itself, because the airport is located 15 km from it. There are several options here, but the most budget one will be to take bus number 16 (with a sign "Fez - Airport"). The bus runs every half an hour and costs 25 MAD one way. You can order a taxi, its cost is fixed - 150 MAD. If you arrive at night, it is advisable to take care of ordering a taxi in advance.

Prices on the page are for April 2019.

Search for flights to Casablanca (nearest airport to Fes)

Weather in Fes

Average monthly temperature, °C day and night

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shopping

In Fes, you need to buy what Fes provides all of Morocco. First of all, these are leather products - it is not for nothing that the tannery quarter is so popular. A leather bag will cost you 200-400 MAD depending on the quality. Drums and other drums are also quite cheap and of relatively high quality. musical instruments- from 20 to 150 MAD.

If you are interested not so much in bargains as in authentic souvenirs, then the choice is obvious - either these are traditional Moroccan grandmother slippers, or a tajine - a massive ceramic pot (10-50 MAD and it is yours). It is also worth asking the price of the products of copper and silversmiths.

If you are lucky enough to get to the pottery, then tajine can be made in front of your eyes, and within 45 seconds.

4 things to do in Fes

Try not to get lost in the 6000 streets of the Old Medina.
See the process of dyeing leather in the famous tannery quarter and buy a great bag for mere pennies.
Admire the grandeur of the Royal Palace.
Watch the sunset paint the beehives of the old houses of Fes el Bali in ocher tones.

Popular hotels in Fes

Entertainment and attractions of Fes

Guests of Fez will be interested to see the 14th century Bou Inania Madrassah (a wonderful example of Islamic architecture with skillful carvings, patterns, Arabic calligraphy and a minaret), the Borj Nord and Borj Sud fortresses, the Qaraouyine library, the al-Tijani mosque and the Merenid Tombs located next to the hotel Merenid.

Traditionally, tourists in Fes are attracted by two ancient centers of different eras, which are monuments to different dynasties of Moroccan rulers - Fes el-Jdid and Fes el-Bali.

Fes el Bali

Fes el Bali, or Old Fes, is the oldest part of the city, having existed since the founding of Fes in 789. Fes el-Bali keeps the memory of the first dynasty of the rulers of Fes - the Idrisids, here is the mausoleum of Idris II - the son of the founder of the city. But Fes el Bali is not only memorial and religious buildings. Here is the center of Moroccan science - the Islamic University of Al-Karouin. It was founded in the 12th century, but is still considered the second most important in the Muslim world after Al-Azhar University in Cairo.

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The old medina, surrounded by the medieval wall of Fes el Bali, is one of the largest pedestrian areas in the world, included in the UNESCO list. There is one of the most protected shrines of the city - the Moulay-Idris mausoleum, the entrance to which is ordered to non-Muslims.

Fes Jdid

The second medina, Fes-Jdid, includes the Emir's Palace, a minaret lined with polychrome tiles and the ancient Fes ghetto. Finally, the modern third part of the city, the so-called New Fes, is everything else.

Tanners' quarter

Relatively close to Al-Qarween University is Shaura Tanners' Quarter. Fes is famous for its handicrafts, but this quarter is especially popular with tourists - leather is processed here using the same technology as hundreds of years ago.

Going to visit the famous Fez leather dyers, it would be useful to take a sprig of mint or lemon with you - amber reigns in the workshops! For the same reason, it is better to visit the dyers in the morning, before the sun begins to heat the vats with the dyeing substance.

El Maghreb, the country of the setting sun, or simply not in vain is called the fabulous Middle Ages. I ended up in this country by chance only on the second attempt. The first one, when all the tickets were already bought, the hostels were booked, and I had already explored Morocco in my thoughts, was crowned with total changes. And exactly a year later I tried my luck again and everything worked out.

By plane

From the capital cities of Russia (Peter,) there are no direct flights to Fez. And with transfers in Europe, Iberia, Vueling, Arab Airlines, as well as Moldovan Airlines and even “ Ural Airlines". As a rule, there are several transfers, and all of them are with large connections. The price may be relatively small, around 250 EUR one way, but how much time can be spent just waiting?

Therefore, in this case, it is best to divide the trip from Russia to Morocco into two parts:

fly to Europe
to get from the cities of Europe to Fes.

Morocco has the best transport links with Spain, close in distance and in spirit. And low-cost airlines very often fly to Spain from St. Petersburg and Moscow, especially to the one popular with Russians. In connection with all this, and plus the fact that it is very attractive not only as a transfer point, it turns out that flying to Fes through Spain is an ideal option.

So, for example, from Russia to Barcelona you can make a flight in 4 hours for 150 EUR one way with Vueling or Iberia. And from the capital of Catalonia to Fes, it’s really possible to fly for 50 EUR with the most budgetary European airline Ryanair. And on the way you will spend about two hours, if not less.

There is an excellent site Vandrouki, which publishes all the current promotions and offers for moving around the world, and at the same time comes up with ways to travel almost for free. Very interesting proposals “how to get to Morocco” often flicker there. For example, on May holidays In 2017, you can fly from through to Morocco for just some 30 EUR. Is it a joke? It's just that Ryanair has unrealistically cheap tickets to such destinations. It remains only to get to Tallinn and open the Schengen, if it is not there yet.

On the same Vandrouki, promotions of flights to Barcelona through the Pobeda airline are sometimes published. By the way, if you only make transplants in Spain, then no Schengen visa is required. And you can still choose the most convenient and economical flights.

How to get from Fes airport to the city

Arriving in Fes, first you find yourself at the airport. The Fes airport is tiny compared to the giant ones in Europe, but nevertheless it does a pretty good job of being the only airport in the fairly populated and popular Fes. There are points at the airport where you can exchange dollars or euros for local dirhams. Usually the exchange rate at airports is higher than in exchange offices in the city center, but to get to the city itself, you will definitely need money, which means change, but only a small amount.

There are two ways to get to the center from the airport:

by bus number 16 for 3 EUR per person, but the bus does not have an exact timetable;
by taxi is fast, fun and not expensive, namely for the same 3 EUR per person.

Usually on bus stop, which is located across the road from the airport itself, only foreigners, who are not yet accustomed to the slowness of the country, are patiently standing and waiting for at least some bus. So we waited for the bus for about half an hour, he did not appear, but we were surrounded by taxi drivers and violently invited to go with them. Then we, and there were two of us, teamed up with the same travelers, bargained with the driver for the price of the bus fare and drove together and cheerfully to the Medina.

By train

Railway communication in Morocco is quite developed. You can get to Fes by train from these major cities, like Marrakesh, and .

The train from Marrakesh to Fez takes 7 hours, from Tangier - 5 hours, and from Casablanca - 4. They say that Moroccan trains are divided into two classes:

certain seat on the ticket,
any free space.

In terms of cost, it all depends on the class, but the prices for the second class are approximately as follows:

from Marrakesh for 20 EUR,
from Casablanca for about 15 EUR,
from Tangier for only 10 EUR.

The first class will cost 5-10 EUR more. Children under 4 years old can ride the train for free, and children under 12 years old receive discounts.

The exact prices and timetables of trains can be found on the website of the Moroccan railway ONCF, however, you cannot buy or book tickets outside of Morocco, this can only be done upon arrival at the station. But trains run frequently and there are no difficulties with the number of tickets.

Fes station is very beautiful, and you can get from it to the city center by taxi parked at the exit.

We have not been able to try the trains for our entire trip to Morocco, but some travelers we met on our way used them and were very pleased with the comfort and speed.

By bus

Buses are perhaps the most budgetary, and therefore the most popular way to travel around the country. The Moroccans got these same buses for unsuitability in Spain. But in fact, ALSA buses in Spain and Morocco are completely indistinguishable. Well, yes, those in Morocco look a little more worn, but in general they drive with a bang, the seats recline, and the air conditioners work properly.

Morocco's main bus companies are CTM and SupraTours. Each carrier has its own website where you can specify the direction and bus schedule. To Fez, for example, from Tangier, the bus will take about 6 hours for 11 EUR. From Marrakech - 9 hours for 17 EUR. From Casablanca - 5 hours for 9 EUR. In addition to the cost of the ticket, cunning Moroccans can still charge an additional fee for placing luggage in the luggage compartment. Therefore, many people tamp their luggage under the seat, under their feet, over their heads, and even ride in an embrace.

Bus tickets can be bought at a small box office at the bus station. Each company has its own box office. It is always best to purchase tickets in advance. Buses run at intervals of up to two hours, but are almost always crowded. Still the most popular transport in Morocco.

An alternative to comfortable tourist bus companies are local, very worn, garbage-filled and jam-packed buses of an unknown carrier that stop in every village, which are easy to catch with a wave of your hand and which cost almost half the price of a regular bus.

This option is of course for the experienced. We decided that we were seasoned and so we tried. In a word, delight. It is probably impossible to get to know the country even closer after such a close four-hour Moroccan encirclement.

Fes seems to have two bus stations. One right next to the Medina, five minutes from the main entrance to the old part of the city. And the second one is on the edge of the city. From the first it is quite possible to get there on foot, and from the second - by taxi for about 2 EUR.

By car

Roads in Morocco are very good. Moving around the country by car is a great idea, especially if you are traveling with a large friendly family.

You can easily rent a car by booking it in advance on the website of any European company you like, whose car rental is also common in Morocco, or by solving this issue upon arrival in the country. On the spot, you can often negotiate with the Moroccans to reduce the price of rent, but this is how lucky. Roads throughout the country are both paid and free. And you can get behind the wheel, barely descending from the gangway or stepping off the deck, and head towards Fez. The car rental system in Morocco works quickly.

There are a lot of people traveling by car. We did not rent a car, but we still managed to evaluate the roads.

By ferry

Alas, it will not work by ferry to Fez itself, but to the nearby Moroccan cities - completely.

Ferries operate from Barcelona and from the southern cities of Spain. It will take a whole day to get from Barcelona to any Moroccan port city, and a one-way ticket will cost approximately 100 EUR. Therefore, if you sail by ferry, then it is better from such sunny cities as Motril, Algeciras or. You can also get to the Spanish autonomous cities of Ceuta and Melilla, located in northern Africa, surrounded by the sea and Morocco, and from there, crossing the border, go to Fes.

The fastest and cheapest way is from Algeciras or Tarifa to Moroccan. The journey will take only about an hour, and the cost of one ticket will be within 25 EUR. Ferries run 8-10 times a day. Other directions will be more time-consuming and will increase significantly in cost.

There are several ferry companies, but there is also a great site Direct Ferries with the most great deals. In the port, you can also purchase these same tickets if this type of trip was not planned in advance. However, a minute before the departure of the ferry tickets may not be available. Although ferries run frequently, there are always quite a lot of people who want to.

We got to Fez by plane, and left Morocco by ferry towards Algeciras. And to cross the sea border, watching how one incredibly interesting piece of the Earth moves away and another equally interesting land approaches, is very, very cool. There is an incredible sense of freedom.

Clue:

Fes - time is now

Hour difference:

Moscow 2

Kazan 2

Samara 3

Yekaterinburg 4

Novosibirsk 6

Vladivostok 9

When is the season. When is the best time to go

Fez is good at any time of the year. There is a positive temperature all year round, and only 50 km from the city are the ever-snowy peaks of the Atlas Mountains, and the ocean is within easy reach. If you go to Fes, then it would be nice to look into other interesting Moroccan places. If you go in the summer or early autumn, then you definitely need to swim in the warm Atlantic. And if at the end of autumn and before the beginning of spring, then conquer the Atlas Mountains. as such tourist season ohm is considered the period from April to October, as well as new year holidays. But even outside this season, Morocco, including Fes itself, remains very attractive. But it is worth remembering that the height of summer can seem too hot, and in winter it is surprisingly cold at night. It is also very important that during the holy month of Ramadan (the ninth lunar calendar) is probably not a good idea to come to Morocco, as with mandatory Muslim bans, the country might give the wrong impression.

The Moroccan tagine (traditional dish) is always in season, which is already something. So you need to go to Fes at the call of your heart.

Fes in summer

The temperature in Fes throughout the summer exceeds +30 degrees during the day, and drops to +17 degrees at night. Since Fez is not surrounded by sea or ocean, the summer in the city is very dry, but aggressive. At this time of the year it is better to be closer to the water, and you can only visit Fez for a couple of days to fall in love with this imperial city, and later return to it more than once.

Fez in autumn

At the beginning of autumn, the weather is not much different from summer. By the middle of this season, the temperature drops to +25 degrees, and in November it is already around +17 degrees. The scorching sun subsides, and the stuffiness disappears and it's time to get acquainted with Fez.

Fez in spring

In spring, the air temperature in Fez rises from +15 to +25 degrees during the day, and at night it stays within +10. This is a very favorable season for traveling in Fes. Especially in April - early May, when flowering begins and the city turns into a huge orange garden.

Fes in winter

Air temperature in winter time in Fez it varies from +10 to +15 degrees during the day and a maximum of +5 degrees at night, however, the nights are very cold, given that heating in Morocco is not as well thought out as in Russia.

During the day it is quite possible to walk in a dress, sneakers and a light jacket, but for the evening you need to be prepared and have warm clothes with you. During the day, the sun usually shines and warms, but there are also strong winds and light rains.

There are quite a lot of tourists in Fes during the New Year holidays, and south of the city among the Atlas Mountains there are many ski resorts so relevant in the winter season.

Fes - monthly weather

Clue:

Fes - monthly weather

Districts. Where is the best place to live

Fez is relatively small, and all the must sees are concentrated in the old part of the city - the Medina. In general, the city is divided into three parts:

Fes el-Bali is the old Medina, surrounded by a medieval wall and consisting of a thousand streets and lanes. This giant pedestrian area is one of World Heritage UNESCO. The Old Medina is divided into districts. Potters live in some, weavers live in others, and tanners live in others. Some of its streets are very narrow, but most importantly, they are very confusing. A map in hand and excellent orientation skills on the spot can clearly let you down in such an immense and mysterious Fes el-Bali.
Fes Jdid is the new Medina, which is separated from the old Medina by a medieval wall with many beautiful gates. The most important of them is the battlements of Bab-bu-Jelud. This part of Fez is filled with markets, shops, restaurants. It is less confusing, but more touristy.
New Fez - everything that is outside the Medina. This part of the city is unremarkable. There are ordinary houses and all kinds of transport, railway station, bus station, airport. In general, the civilization familiar to us.

If we talk about where in Fez it is best to stay, then definitely in the new Medina, or maybe outside of it, but within walking distance from it. And here's why: Fez-Jdid is located as if between that part of the city where it is interesting, and the one where you need to visit. Fes el-Bali is located as if in the depths of the city, and upon arrival in Fes, you need to not only walk kilometers to it, but also try very hard to find the same housing in these millions of intricate streets, and therefore it is not best area for life. It is completely illogical to stop in the new Fez, after all, the same imperial Fez should be much closer. But the new Medina is the golden mean.

Housing types

Tourism is very well developed in Morocco, which means that the issue of housing for travelers is completely resolved. In Fes, of course, there are the usual, familiar to many, hotels and hostels, but in addition to this, there is also traditional Moroccan housing, which is divided into Dar and Riad.

Dar is translated from Arabic as a house, inside of which there is always a courtyard. Riad is translated as a palace and implies the presence of an internal garden. Both are very common on Moroccan soil, but only among the rich population. However, for us travelers, the Moroccans came up with a great idea and opened their hotels, hostels or guesthouses, but in the form of gifts or riads. The main difference between the palace and the house is only in the modesty of the second, but both of them are very beautiful and comfortable. Both are decorated in Arabian style with tall delightful doors, colorful lamps, patterned tiles, a sea of pillows, a fountain in the center of the patio and plants around. And their courtyards are ideal for tea parties, good thoughts and familiarization with the Arab world. Therefore, staying in such traditional havens, you can fully plunge into Moroccan life.

You can book accommodation in advance at. Out of season, you can check in without a reservation, besides, the owners can make a discount. Housing prices in Fes are quite reasonable. You can find chic expensive and quite comfortable, but at the same time budget: from 5 to 500 EUR per night.

From personal experience

During our stay in Fes, we managed to live in two completely different hostels. The first was Dar Rabha, a small but very nice hostel. It is located five minutes from the main entrance to the new Medina. Dar seems to be hidden from the eyes of passers-by, so finding it is not so easy. One kind Moroccan helped us with this. From the outside, the hostel looked quite dull, but inside, surprisingly, it turned out to be magnificent. The hostel has a terrace, free breakfasts and all helpful information about the city. One night in a shared room costs 5 EUR per person. Of the minuses of the hostel: a little cool in terms of temperature and atmosphere. But overall, I highly recommend Dar.

The second was Riad Verus. It is located outside the new Medina, but close to it. Also hidden and also unremarkable, judging by the front door. When you go inside, you really find yourself in a palace. In Moroccan magnificent palace. A fountain gurgles on the patio, you are treated to mint tea and you meet new interesting people. This Riad is very atmospheric, with a huge terrace and views of the whole Fes, with sumptuous breakfasts and great guides to the old Medina for only 5 EUR per person. One night in such a riad costs 8 EUR. In addition to all the pluses of the palace, there was one sharp minus - the owner’s poor musical taste, which turned on techno from morning to night. But for all this time so many guests have changed, but there are no less opinions that this minus could have turned into a plus for a long time. In general, I recommend.

By the way, for lovers of apartments and homestay, Morocco can also offer options. Although this is a third world country, such housing is quite developed in it, although not very popular. A huge plus of using such guest networks is getting out of your comfort zone and getting to know the city through communication with locals. We tried homestay not in Fez, but in Morocco, and were very satisfied.

What are the prices for holidays

Let's start with Moroccan dirhams. You can exchange currency for local money at any of the many exchange offices in the city. But each exchanger has its own exchange rate and often they meet with too high prices, so it’s better to first find out the exchange rate of each counter exchange office and then choose the best one. In my experience, for such a currency exchange, the point at the entrance to the new Medina on the right side, if you are facing the Medina itself, turned out to be the most successful. Then, in the winter of 2017, 1 EUR cost approximately 10 AED (dirham).

In general, Morocco is very cheap country and Fez is no different from other cities in this country in terms of prices. Prices for travel and housing were given above, but as for food, everything is very comparative. For example, local delicacies and Moroccan gifts in the form of tangerines and dates are very cheap here (only 50 cents per kilo of each goodies). Factory-made products in Morocco are more expensive than usual, and they are mainly brought from Spain. Everyone's favorite Oreo in the Moroccan open spaces can cost 3 EUR, so when in Fes, it's best to join the local food one hundred percent. It's different, but also delicious.

For a price guide, Moroccan bread costs about 25 cents, water 30 cents. Large portion of couscous with chicken – 3 EUR. Moroccan tea - about 1 EUR.

Below, in the section "Food. What to try” also shows prices for food, and in the sections “Things to do” and “What to bring as a gift” prices for relevant topics are mentioned.

Clue:

The cost of food, lodging, transportation, etc.

Currency: Euro, € US dollar, $ Russian ruble, rub Moroccan dirham, MAD

Main attractions. What to see

The main and only attraction of Fez is its old medina. In it, every tangled street is dotted with markets and workshops that deserve great attention. You can wander along these streets on your own, get lost, stumble upon a small square where all kinds of metal things are forged from jewelry to teapots, and then ask everyone how to get out of this Fes el-Bali. And you can also get a guide who will not only confidently guide you through the entire Medina and tell historical facts, but it will also show places that are completely inaccessible to the tourist’s eye. For example, a guide can take you to a place where delicious Moroccan bread is baked or where wooden items are decorated with patterns. There are plenty of guides on the streets of Fez, but it is better to turn to reliable ones, who often work at hotels and hostels. An excursion with such a guide can cost 5 EUR per person for 3 hours of adventure in the unique Fez.

But the most amazing quality of Fez is its dyers, where hunched tanners work and dye leather in the ancient way, standing knee-deep in vats full of various liquids. The technique of dyeing leather is as follows: first, the leather is treated by soaking it in lime baths, and then in a solution of bird droppings, and after that the leather is rinsed in the paint for a long time and finally left to dry. All paint is exclusively natural: from henna, turmeric and other useful products.

It's rare to stumble across dye-works in old Fez. Therefore, everywhere on the way there are Moroccan guides who are ready to take you to the very dyehouses that flashed in the Clone for a small fee. They usually lead to leather goods stores, from the roofs of which there is an excellent view of the world of tanners. For freshness, they give out a sprig of mint, because there is a monstrous stench in these dye houses, and they briefly tell the process of working with leather, which they then persistently try to sell in their stores.

Top 5

Beaches. Which is better

The topic of beaches is not relevant in relation to Fez, because the city is located inland, and therefore far from the seas, oceans and beach holiday. But Morocco is not as big as it seems and only 7 hours drive from Fes is the very glorious ocean city of Essaouira, but that's another story.

What to see in 1 day

In one day in Fes, it is quite possible to have time to see everything, try it and understand whether this is your city or not. The most important thing in Fez is not to rush anywhere.

5:00 - wake up from how the muezzins call for prayer in cracked voices, feel this and fall asleep again.
8:00 - wake up already for sure, stretch and smile at a new day.
8:30 am – Enjoy a traditional Moroccan delicacy on the patio of the riad or on the terrace overlooking the city in anticipation of something extraordinary.
9:30 am – Pack up and wander around the medinas of Fes without maps, navigators and tips, go to the touch and notice every little thing.
11:00 - Moroccan tangerines and mint tea.
11:30 - buy, sign and send a postcard to yourself or your loved ones, thus sharing your first impressions of Fez.
12:00 - dine at one of the vending street restaurants with tajine or harira.
14:00 - find an excellent guide in the old Medina of Fes and already with him see a completely different city, hidden from the eyes of visitors.
16:00 - with or without a guide, look at one of the dye houses of the city, hear the story of the process of such hard work, be horrified by the aromas, remember Zhadi from the Clone, who ran among similar or the same vats to meet love, capture this place on camera and in memory.
16:30 - refresh yourself with avocado juice and stock up on useful souvenirs, honing your bargaining skills.
17:00 - return to the riad to dine marshmallows and oriental sweets on the terrace overlooking the sunset Fes.
18:00 - go to cafe Barcelona for a concert of traditional Moroccan music.
19:00 - visit one of the best hammams in the city and thereby get a real Moroccan experience.
20:00 - finally take a walk around Fes and decide whether the city has charmed or not.
20:30 - inspired by such a busy and interesting day, stay for a while in Fez or buy a bus ticket to a close, famous, glorious blue village and set off on a new adventure.

Food. What to try

In Fez, as in the rest of Morocco, the food is succulent, spicy, but not overly varied. Five courses and that's where Moroccan cuisine ends. Learn more about these 5 traditional dishes(mint tea, tagine, couscous, harira, Moroccan salad) you can read at. And here I will talk about other highlights of the national cuisine.

One of the typical Moroccan breakfasts consists of a fruit salad with yogurt, a loaf with cheese and an egg with spices, a bun and a cake so similar to our Soviet sweets, freshly squeezed orange juice and mint tea. In another version of the breakfast, olives with olives and excellent Moroccan bread can be found. Such breakfasts are often served in hostels.

Morocco is rich in the most delicious tangerines in the world, which cost quite a penny. They are sold in the endless fez markets at a price of only 50 cents per kilogram. Still, juices are often made from tangerines and sold on the streets of the Medina. Also on Moroccan soil, avocado is very common, which is added to salads, but even better when it is whipped with milk and sugar in a blender and you get a very satisfying delicious avocado cocktail. Such a drink can be tasted in street stalls or in city restaurants for 1.5 EUR. In addition to healthy fruits, Morocco also has completely unhealthy and very sweet oriental sweets.

There is another very tasty and unusual dish in Moroccan cuisine - pastila. This is a kind of chicken and peanut pie topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon in the shape of a Star of David. This is a must try. You will definitely not remain indifferent. Pastila is available in almost every restaurant in Fes for 4-5 EUR.

Almost the entire Fes-Jdid is dotted with restaurants and cafes where both tourists and locals eat and drink tea. In terms of price categories, they almost do not differ, but the friendliness of the owners and waiters plays a decisive role in choosing one or another place for lunch, dinner or regular tea.

We liked the place at the main gate to the new Medina on the right hand. A father and son work there and both of them are very kind, they speak almost all the languages of the world and cook very tasty marshmallows.

Safety. What to watch out for

About security in Morocco as a whole is very well described in. From my own experience I can say that Fez is not at all criminal, but there are no less pickpockets and scammers in safe Europe. But in Fez, as in other parts of Morocco, one must always be on the alert and not fall into the trust of the Moroccans, who are looking for profit in everything and very rarely help just like that.

I traveled with my young man, whose appearance is somewhat close to the Arab, so wherever we were together, he was always treated as one of his own, and I, as it should be in the Muslim world, was not directly addressed. When I went out into the street alone, I was always surrounded by excessive obsessive attention. Therefore, in the Arab world, it is safer for a girl to travel in a male escort, but covering her head with a scarf, gathering courage and ignoring everything superfluous, one can completely travel around Morocco alone. Throughout our journey, we met several of these brave ones.

As for night walks in Fes, it is better to refrain from this. As for deceit, then, in my opinion, the Moroccans are very smart and cunning, which means they will not deceive out of the blue. In El Maghreb, all relations are built on trade, which means that you can always agree and find a compromise. Being able to bargain, it turns out, is very cool. This is a kind of art. Very subtle and witty. Basis of Moroccan culture. Buying something and not haggling at the same time, it is even possible to offend the seller himself. Therefore, try to bring down prices and not only for the sake of profit, but also for the sake of pleasure.

Things to do

Hammam

In addition to endless walks around old Fes and sampling all the Moroccan delicacies, you can and should visit the Arab baths in the city - in the hammam.

There are two types of hammam:

expensive luxurious baths, similar to modern spas, but in Arabic style, and created specifically for tourists;
modest affordable baths, which local Moroccans go to weekly, or even more often.

I honestly rejected the first option due to its tourist orientation and excessive pomposity. And I didn’t decide on the second one for a long time, because already experienced people told me about their unusual double impression of such a hammam, and I didn’t understand whether I needed such an experience. Finally I made up my mind. I chose a place, got lost while getting to it, but finally I ended up in that legendary hammam. There were two doors in front of me. One entrance - for women, the second - for men. At the entrance was a spacious room with high ceilings and benches along the walls. It was the dressing room. Moroccan women stood there at the entrance and told what the salt of the hammam was. In such a hammam, you can just come and wash yourself, or you can be washed and even given a massage. Of course, I agreed to the latter. Washing yourself is nothing new. It cost me 10 EUR, but I had to bargain.

When I undressed, I was taken to another room, already smaller, but still with huge ceilings. The room was filled with women and girls sitting on the stone floor and pouring water over themselves from buckets. They put me next to them, surrounded me with buckets full of water, and began to wash with black special soap. Washed so hard that I was afraid for my tattoo. Everything worked out. I was rinsed, massaged and released. I was delighted. Honestly! First of all, I have never felt so clean before. And secondly, it was an unexpected cool experience, and most importantly, it was something really Moroccan.

Cafe

In addition to the hammam, in Fes you should look into one very modern Moroccan cafe, which, surprisingly, is called. Outside, it looks quite ordinary, but inside it is very stylish in Arabic. This cafe often hosts concerts of traditional Moroccan music. Tickets for concerts are paid, about 3 EUR, but admission ticket includes any complimentary drink. All the golden youth of Fez gather for concerts, which, it turns out, differ little from the European one: just as liberated and mobile. And this cafe was the only place where I saw so many Muslim women at once and all without a hijab.

This cool place is located on Talaa Kebira street, in the new Medina. The cafe is notable, so you won't miss it. On TripAdviser, by the way, there are reviews and photos of this very Barcelona cafe.

In general, the place, music and atmosphere are very impressive and Fez opens up as if from a different, previously invisible side.

Souvenirs. What to bring as a gift

Fez is no different from other Moroccan cities in terms of traditional gizmos, which, after leaving the Oriental fairy tale, you can take home as a keepsake or for good, or give them and please your loved ones. The only thing: Fez is a city of leather workers, as we have already decided earlier. So leather and all kinds of leather goods in Fez should be much cheaper than in other Moroccan corners. Keep this in mind when trading, because many traders cheerfully and confidently call super high prices. For example, I bought a belt bag for 9 EUR in Chefchaouen, and in Fez they wanted to sell me exactly the same bag for no less than 20 EUR. The difference is palpable.

Morocco describes the main traditional souvenirs North Africa. But those that were not included in that article, I will describe here.

In addition to some of the above, I brought pillowcases made of cactus thread, stylish jackets with hoods and Berber patterns, and a lot of argan in the form of creams and oils for both body and cooking. Also, I brought them stories, sun and good mood.

How to move around the city

Fes is quite small, and all its sights are just interesting places located within the medina, so The best way movement around the city - walking. In addition, entry to any vehicle Medina is strictly prohibited.

Taxi. What features exist

Taxi is a great option if you need to get from the airport to the city center or vice versa, as well as to the train station or bus station. The trip will take about 10 minutes and will not cost much. You can find out the approximate prices for a taxi in advance at the hotel / hostel or at the airport, train station or bus station. But within 5 EUR you will be taken to the right place. Only cash is accepted for payment. And you can catch a taxi at every corner, but it also happens that taxis line up in an organized way, which can be seen from a kilometer away.

Taxis in Fes are very, very common, not only for tourists. Locals, in the absence of their own car, willingly take a taxi, and cunning taxi drivers recruit everyone they meet on the way as passengers. Thus, trips in a crowded taxi are not uncommon, but the norm. There is a huge plus in all this - fun and very Moroccan.

Transport rental

Renting a car in Morocco is very common and easy. And Fes is no exception.

To rent a car, you need an international driver's license and money. Vehicle rental companies, both local and international, are equally good. Only the latter can cost much more, but they are still more reliable. On average, renting a regular car costs 45 EUR per day, excluding taxes, mileage, insurance, and so on. You can see the cost of the car you are interested in in a city of Morocco convenient for rent. Gasoline compared to European is also inexpensive.

Fez - holidays with children

In Morocco in general, it is very common to find large families with children traveling around the country by car. However, Fez is not at all adapted to the little guests: no entertainment they are used to and even no interest in the city itself. But in Fez, you can stop for a couple of days to take a break from the road and soak up the sun from the terrace, and then go to the mountains to snowboard and ski. Kids love it, even if they don't know how yet.

Ski holidays

From December to April on the tops of the Atlas Mountains of Morocco is open ski season.

One of the best ski resorts - Ifrane, just located near Fes. You can get to it either by rented car or by CTM bus. The mountains there, they say, are excellent, and are suitable for both amateurs and professionals.

We have not had a chance to experience these majestic mountains yet, but everything is ahead! Have a great trip around Fes and in those parts :).